Hesitation

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mygtsissweet

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So I have a 69 Dodge GTS with a 340. It's got a Carter 4 Barrel. When I go to step on the gas starts to go and then stalls it is an automatic transmission. Yeah when I go to hit it it hesitates and then stalls. Should I change out the points to an electronic ignition a guy told me once the 90% of a carburetors problem is the distributor. What are your thoughts
 
It could be in the distributor, but it has nothing to do with points as long as they're set properly- is it a single or dual-point?). If the advance mechanism is sticking, it could be as simple as lubing up the plates and pivots, I wouldn't be surprised if it's never been done for 50+ years). Could also be a dried out accelerator pump, or a misadjusted kickdown linkage, or a myriad of other things. DON'T just start throwing parts at it. You're not going to throw fuel injection on it if some other putz tells you that carbs are garbage and that's your problem, are you?
 
You have not given much info, to add to above.
[1] If it has been a long time since the points have been checked/adjusted, then the ign timing will have retarded due to the points rubbing block wearing.
[2] Carb choke adjustment
[3] Same deal with the carb if it has a lot of mileage on it. Worn needles & seats, fuel level, acc pump plunger worn out. Get an overhaul kit for the carb.
 
Carb was rebuilt by some co out of n.j. says previous owner. We have a local speed shop nearby maybe they can figure it out. Thsnks
 
As for a hesitation.
If the car hesitates with a slow throttle tip-in, that is called a hesitation or tip-in sag. Almost invariably, this is caused by a failure of the Transfers to respond in a timely fashion; usually because the throttles are too far closed.
as for a stumble
if when you whack the throttle from a dead-stop, the car stumbles and dies, that is called, oddly enough, a "stumble".
as for a bog
If the car stumbles, does NOT die, then goes; this is a bog.
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Now:
insufficient advance has nothing to do with any of these. I can set your 340's Idle-timing anywhere in the window from 5>15 degrees, and on a combo that did not bog, this action, by itself, will not create a bog.
However,
TOO MUCH Idle-timing, like 15>20, will cause the Idle-speed to rise, usually higher than most guys like ....... so they close the throttle with the speed screw. This closes the transfer slots to nearly closed, and the engine goes lean and idles like crap. So the guy richens the Idle mixture screws to the max, and so, it idles OK.
But, with the transfers so far closed, and with the Idle-vacuum so low, they are reluctant to get moving, when you open the primaries, and so, you get a hesitation.
If the convertor is tight, you may get a stumble or a bog.
So long as
the Ignition-timing remains excessive, you can dic around with the carb all day, and that tip-in sag cannot be cured until the Transfers are opened up some.
Whereas
a stumble can usually be cured by accelerator pump timing
Whereas a bog usually means that secondary air speed is coming in too soon. or is dry.

As to the points;
If the car starts, runs, and revs cleanly to 5500, I wouldn't be in a hurry to get rid of them. Usually the factory lifters start pumping up about 5500.
However, not a chance would I run points, on a DD.
 
It's a total restoration. Carb was rblt. 727 tranny is new 323 rearend solid. I can't get it to kick down to 2nd when I mat it.

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The kick down lever should be all the way back on the transmission when you are at WOT. It shouldn’t hammer the linkage, but should be fully back.
 
When it dies, will it start right up clean or does it misbehave a bit on start up. Start up clean it probably was lean. Misbehaves and it is having to burn the raw fuel off the plugs. I REALLY like running an AFR gauge in a car. When the car has an issue. The gauge will quickly reduce the number of possible causes. For example, if you looked and it was lean when it died, fuel supply and it removes ignition from the equation. Rich? Unless you have fuel dripping out of a booster or HUGE jets, (which can be pretty easy to see or test) it will probably be ignition.
 
When it dies, will it start right up clean or does it misbehave a bit on start up. Start up clean it probably was lean. Misbehaves and it is having to burn the raw fuel off the plugs. I REALLY like running an AFR gauge in a car. When the car has an issue. The gauge will quickly reduce the number of possible causes. For example, if you looked and it was lean when it died, fuel supply and it removes ignition from the equation. Rich? Unless you have fuel dripping out of a booster or HUGE jets, (which can be pretty easy to see or test) it will probably be ignition.

The problem with some of the diagnostics with an AFR gauge is if the engine is having miss issues the AFR will show what looks like a lean problem when it’s actually just showing a lot of unburned oxygen.

So yes, an engine can have an ignition issue and it looks like a lack of fuel on the AFR.
 
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