I probably bought wrong 8 3/4

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Frank Miller

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Help! I have been doing a full restoration of an original CA owner '65 Dart GT for six months now. I have aquired every option available (pwr. steer, front rotors,full 235 h.p. commando rebuild etc.) and have loved every minute of it, until now. About three months back I aquired a complete 8 3/4 rear-end from a guy who told me all I had to do was shorten the driveshaft. (sucker that I was) Well now I get around to reworking the rear end and ordered the full spring 'n things hookups and I'm senseing that the flange to flange (around 57 1/2) is not going to fit. (I know..Duh) I see faint salvage yard paint markings "Dart '74" and if this wont work without cutting the case and axles it's going back on Craig'slist. Should I dump this one and look for a specific '66 thru '72 Chrysler of some kind to scalp or give up and stick with my silly 7 1/4 with no suretrak. It's important to note that I don't intend on gettin on it as much as I like what I've heard about beefing up the diff. Thanks, Frank
 
you can move the spring perches in and it will work. whats a 235??
 
If 57.5" is the width of the axle flanges its the right rear, another place to check is the perches, if it's 43-44" from hole to hole its an A body rear.

Most of the charts list width across the housing ends, not counting the axles/brakes etc.
 
Thanks Joe, I'm torn from sitting here watching the Master's (Tiger's losing his composure at the minute), and racing down to my shop to check those 43 to 44" hole locations. Wish me luck.
 
I think the 235 is the horsepower. He probably has a 273.
 
There were no A-Body 8.75's in 74 so it would have to be a 66-72 if it is in fact an A-Body rearend. Center of perch to center of perch is 43" for an A-Body and 44" for 66-70 B-Bodies. I believe the A-Body 8.75 rears were only about 55" from axle flange to axle flange.

Joe
 
Joe, I've got perch to perch 43" with the small pattern studs so it must be the 66-72 8 3/4. Did those series come in varied axle width? To pop it on my '65 GT with a driveshaft modification will it clear the fenderwells? Thanks
 
If the perches are 43" and it has the SBP axles then it is definitely an A-Body rearend and it should fit right under your car. All A-Body 8.75 rears had the SBP axles. I apparently was wrong about the width. As for the driveshaft goes, it will be easier to get a driveshaft from a 67-72 A-Body with a 904. Shorten the driveshaft to the length you need, add the correct slip yoke for your trans. and the 8.75 u-joint and you are set.

Joe
 
Sounds like an A body 8 3/4 to me. FYI, ALL A body 8 3/4 rears were 4" bolt pattern. You should be able to bolt this unit right in, and shorten the driveshaft to size. All A body 8 3/4 rears are the same width, both perch to perch and flange to flange. Only the brake distribution block is in a different location after 1970, where it was moved from almost on the radius of the center to a position more on the flat of the tube. You got the right stuff!!! Geof
 
When I put the 360/904 in my 66 Dart,I had a driveshaft from a 73 swinger 318/904 it worked perfect.I just swapped to the bigger u-joint.Hope this helps.:cheers:
 
Geof, thanks a mill for your help. I live in CA but grew up in Jackson and my family has a cottage near you at Strawberry lake. My best childhood memories are of tooling through the Pinckney chain of lakes. I guess I'll start looking around for a '73 Dart Swinger driveshaft for starters. I was going to just put this single axle in to complete my powertrain because I don't plan on running it hard and we don't have snow here but with me now knowing how unique my 8 3/4 case is I have to go whole hog and make it a suretrak. From what I'm hearing I better take on a second job to pay for it.
 
Joe, great help. If I were to take this 8 3/4 case and have it professionally converted to the suretrak 3rd member and axles, green bearings etc. can I expect those parts to be available unlike the difficulty I encountered just finding my 66-72 full axle (which I now feel very lucky about). Where would I start? I just want highway gears, but do I go to a tranny shop or speed shop. Any notion of what this extra would set me back for?
 
Moser axels with the green bearings can run up towards $400,also you can check Randy,s Ring and Pinion for those wanted hyw. gears.Good luck.:read2:
P.S Don,t forget to mention what size brakes you,ll be running.
 
Don't waste your time looking for a 73 driveshaft. It wont bolt up to your 65 transmission.
 
Thats a good point there Hell Fish!! Frank, exactly what style of driveshaft do you have on your trans?? Is it the dreadful "ball and trunnion"?? If so, you will need to get that shortened to use just for now intil you can find a tailshaft from a late 65 trans with the cable park feature and the slipjoint tail. They're hard to find but they are out there. I did it with my old 64 Belvedere. Jackson huh?? I spent some time in Jackson!!! Oops... I don't mean the prison!!LOL!!! We cruise out there a lot, and of course through the cahin of lakes. The Helluva Cruise is/was a good event for seeing all of the fine Livingston Co. country side. Good luck with your project, and be patient, you'll find a suregrip in your pricerange with a little patience and digging!!! Geof
 
Just have your driveshaft shortened and be done, you may need one of the emergency brake cables from the 7 1/4 but More good news (they are interchangable)
 
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