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I do not know why people still mess with points ign, unless it is a true 100% rest deal. What's next, modifying the front of the engine so it can be started with a crank handle...

Re-grinding a stock cam to get more lift will leave the lobe physically much smaller..... You may need longer prods. Not the best solution.

You said you had recently fixed 'issues'. What issues? Maybe they are back.....

The #2642242 tag # in my Motors Manual lists the dist for 1966 273 4bbl.

For a mild engine like this, having the shafts upside down will have no long term problem. It just means on initial start up, the oil now has to fill the shafts to the top so that the oil can exit the shaft holes. This will happen veeeeery quickly as without the holes being at the bottom of the...

...270 Mega cam. I have used a lot of the Mega cams. The tight 108 LSA is going to give you more HP. 221 @ 050 might not sound that big, but it has 12* more overlap than the same grind on 114*. Single pattern, lift will be 0.496" with 1.6 rockers. Remember, easy to go too big. Have factory...

There is no 750 AVS2........

Dan, If you can find a TQ.......just run it. I could never work out why a 440 with a TQ [ #6410 ] had .125" sec jets but a #6454 used on a 360 had .143"sec jets. Jet size is NOT related to engine size. If you use a TQ on a 318, you may have to change jet sizes &/or met rods. What you will...

QJ is a spreadbore like the TQ. Same bolt pattern. You need to check fitment to the intake to make sure all the passages in the carb base are covered & that linkages do not foul etc....

650 AVS2 or TQ.

Perfect. I would re-use them.

Agree that cam will be a dog in a 318, so I hope you like dogs...... A much more streetable cam would be the Isky 270 Mega

If the gaskets are the thin shim steel type, the 'Marine' gaskets might be s/stainless steel to reduce corrosion. I know Mancini used to sell s/s gaskets for the BB because I bought some.

If your engine likes 20* initial, leave it there. It is telling you something. Low comp engines need more timing, all else being equal. You have two options: reduce the total. Taking 2-4* may cure the detonation...& not hurt the top end. Other option is slow the centri adv curve.

The factory Pontiac dampener on the V8 engine with a factory crank is a slide on fit. Period. Some after market cranks are slightly oversize on the crank snout such that the D no longer slides on. Same deal on aftermarket Ds, often will not slide on. I have lost count of how many Ds I have had...

No, this isn't a Pontiac, but it works exactly the same: conrods, crank, pistons, timing chain etc, etc. If you do the bolt up tight enough, the dampener won't move [ it is not a balancer, it is a harmonic dampener that has been balanced ]. There has never been any problems such as broken...

It will be ok, but you need more tq on the bolt. Millions of Pontiac engines had dampeners that slid in place by hand...............& didn't fail. They used a 5/8" bolt that was torqued to 160. Nothing special about the bolt except it was grade 8. From memory, Chrys used a 3/4" bolt, so...

You do not need to pull the c/valve apart. Just find a spacer [ an old bolt cut to size or whatever ] to put under the p'rod seat.

And.....

22* at idle is about half of what you would need with that cam. T/blades are open too far at idle; which is why backing out the mixture screws richens the cruise. You can use an adj vac adv unit to give another 18-20* at idle [ connect to man vacuum]. A 440 I tuned recently idles at 42* with...

The first thing you need to do is see if the pop comes from the intake or the exhaust; because the causes/remedies are a whole lot different for each.....

What is the idle timing? Depending on what the cruise rpm is, you might be cruising on the T/slot.....or the main system. Am I reading this right: best idle is 1/4 turn out from seated? That suggests too much T/slot is exposed at idle.

Good job. I like to see creative builds.

Post #5 & 6

If you can find the 'right' chemical solution, it might be salvageable. Solution would need to remove the alum corrosion, but not affect steel & brass parts.

Any 8 mm or larger spiral wound plug wires will be fine. Do not pay extra for 'extra low resistance'. Tests done years ago with wires of varying resistance found that the wire that gave the highest HP did NOT have the lowest resistance [ only a few hp between the best & the worst ]. That is...

Do the test again as in post #1....with the vac adv disconnected & plugged.

My guess is that the VA unit is not deploying fully [ ie. the plunger is not pulling all the way in { see-sawing } ] such that the amount of vacuum is varying slightly. If the VA unit is adjustable, turn the screw fully CW.

The risk with using minimal pre-load, close to zero, is: - noisy valve train - lifter pump up....which can punch out the lifter circlip......& do further damage.

That is a lot of coolant, if it is exiting the spark plug hole. Remove the head & the problem should be obvious.....