Search results for query: *

What I discovered years ago was that after flatening the surfaces, the relief in the alloy stat house was not deep enough to receive the stat, and the stat would keep the two flat surfaces apart. It worked fine for awhile, but eventually would blow out, as the housing eventually warped...

Honestly, I don't know. I've have had no luck sticking RTV to a moist surface. But I don't use RTV for this job. I have an ancient nearly used up can of Indian Head Gasket Shellac that I've been saving from the 70s, just for these jobs. BTW, those spacer-washers would be just about right to...

The P/S bracket requires the 1/4 inch longer bolts. The other side gets the shorter ones. When no P/S pump is on the engine, all 4 bolts are the same. Do not install the longer bolts on the P/S side without the triangular bracket as they will drive into the cylinder and crack it! You were...

Do you have power steering?

IMO if a painted radiator leads to an overheat situation, then your cooling system was already borderline.

Well hopefully your fan is not spinning backwards!

...intakes; and > I learned a thing or two about tuning distributors and timing; which btw is now 14 idle/28Power@2800, slowing to 32/34@3400; with 22* in the can. This lets me run 87E10 full time. > But none of those things budged the temp-gauge significantly, except fixing the tight...

...cruise-timing is essential. With the current cam (276/286/110), my 367 likes 56 degrees at about 2400@70 mph in overdrive. She runs at exactly 207*F as measured at the stathouse with an IR gun. Hot day/cold day/fast/slow/idling, cruising, or racing; 207*F. >If yur timing is retarded, and you...

I once had an overheat issue that could not be solved in any usual way. I finally tore the engine down and increased, both the skirt clearance, and the ring gaps; problem solved.

Here are a few tricks; 1) If you have an automatic transmission; > you can run plenty of Idle-timing, so long as the engine stays out of detonation at stall. I mean the engine will like a lot. You can run as much as 25 or more degrees; until either of; the starter gives up, or until the engine...

ahA! Don't you just luv it when an idea just pops into your head; I sure do. keep me posted.

Well, if I had that intake, I would plumb that hose over to the other side of the intake, close to where it has traditionally always been; and cap the inlet on the pump. This will equalize the water pressure across the stat house. I read a Book in the which Smokey Yunich talks about the crazy...

In the above pic, the one from your first post; with the stat closed, all the water flowing thru the block deadheads at the stat, but the suction side of the pump being at a lower pressure than the intake, picks up the water at the bypass, and sends it back thru the engine for another trip...

...calculator this points to 430hp at ~900 ft elevation, and 3457 pounds@ on the start line; and she will, if I ask her to, Idle at 550 all day at 5* advance , she will even pull herself around the parking lot at that, down to 500 rpm/ 3.5 mph, no toe on the clutch. This is not a brag on my...

...inches of the heads, on various headers, and mentally mark those spots. Check and record with the current timing then advance the timing, in say 5*increments. This will cause the Idle rpm to increase. Keep adding, until additional timing produces no additional rpm, then back it up to the...

...washer or a gutted old stat, to prevent erroneous temperature readings. While in park and idling; the rad needs to drop the temperature about 25/30*F from tank to tank. If she can't do it with the fans running top speed and the stat removed for testing, IMA suspecting the fans, or the...

...simple; If your rad is dropping the temp 30degrees, from top to bottom, then your cooling system is working exactly right. Go to Note-5 If only 20*, it could be better but as soon as the car is moving even just 10 mph, the temp should be dropping. There are several things you can do to make...

EDIT; My T-clutch is out of the Haden catalog, listed for an early 2000s Ford Pick-up. I think it was classified as a HDPlus. Here we are at least 19 years later and it is still working.

...timing should be at least 50>56 degrees. I'm gonna say something that is gonna sound crazy; Once the stat opens, my 367 runs right between 205>207* measured by IR gun, at the hottest place I can find, on or near the stat house. I have never seen her run more nor less, no matter how I drive...

BTW if the temp sensor is NOT in the water, it will NOT measure the temp of the water. It will give try to give you the temp of the air above the water, but it's really lousy at doing that. So if you have used a stack of adapters to make your sensor "fit" well there yago. fix it. If you wait...

Have you checked it with a back up tester like a water thermometer or an IR gun? Have you tested the rad temperature? The stat sets the minimum water temperature, so it's job is to stay CLOSED until it's calibration point. It doesn't care about the rad or the clutch. But it does care about the...

...air down thru a big hole in the hood; you cannot imagine how hard a decision that was, to make. >the ignition timing is; 14@ idle increasing to 28*@2800, (two-stage curve), slowing to 34*@3400 (alloy heads) > My Vcan has been modified to 22*, and it comes in asap. > Cruise timing at 2800 is...

..., that I undid some of the previous mods that I had done in an effort to run cooler. I even installed a 195 Hi-flo, and reset the max Temp to 207*F, and that is what she has run ever since. ------------------------------------------------------------ Also; check your ignition timing. If the...

...initially also at 11.3, bur reduced to ~10.7Scr Third and current cam: [email protected]; .549/.571lift, at 11/1 all were FTHs My system runs at 207*F by IR gun, at the stat house. Once there it doesn't move, thanks to a viscous clutch with a thermostatic control, and a fresh-air intake system...

Recore the one you have. The metal tanks will last practically forever. Mine is a out of a 73 Dart 318 auto. Even the patches have patches. She is still cooling the 430hp 367 under the hood, idling in the parking lot all day.

not stupid at all .... which is why it made it to the top of my list.

Your fans are rotating in the correct direction ...... right? Do this; At idle and over 180*F First check the temps of the water across the rad from where the coolant goes in to where it leaves, looking for about a 30 degree difference. If you get close to this; STOP! I'll bet you a box of...

Nobody knows. The factory temp gauge is notoriously slow and not really tied to reality. By the time it tells you the engine is hot, you will know it in other ways, like the steam billowing from under the hood. Buy an IR gun; it will tell you what you need to know. BTW; since we're talking, the...

as easy as the rad is to RnR I don't see a problem doing that; I mean you don't even have to remove the easily accessible bolts. Beats the heck out of skinned knuckles, and one-flat-at-a-time wrenching..

...the job was crap; on the one side, the surface went downhill towards the firewall. On the other it was downhill to the rad. And neither side was 90* to the other. So when brand new Edelbrocks went on and a used iron intake, she sucked air everywhere. I reasoned that an alloy intake might...