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I went crazy back in the file sharing days, so I've got a bunch of stuff, but a lot of it is sort of random. For example I recorded shoutcast (IIRC) blues stations for some reason. I also snagged a copy of St. Anger (filename stanger.mp3) that I swear burrowed itself into my files like a tick...

You likely woulda found you couldn't get them any tighter than I did, and found out they're like a spring and just go back to the original spot. I considered a jack handle in the collector to bend them but decided if I'm going to have to bend them it's better to do it with a hammer so I at least...

Tubes on both headers hit the torsion bars from the inside. I think it is #1 tube that touches the PS box. If it was one side or the other I'd think it was a crooked installation but it was both sides. I literally could not get the torsion bars in without a strap around the headers. Take the...

One gotcha on buying pre-coated headers is you might end up needing to ding them here and there. And by ding I mean you might need to beat the living crap out of them to get them to fit. I needed to make power steering and torsion bar clearance on the Doug's that going are in my 71. If you're...

I used one under my k-frame Then the next week they were on sale for $3 less.

I was surprised it didn't mention Bill Gates.

The lower seat back bolts are similar in 71, basically a lag screw run into the floor.

All pushrods are technically hollow, but that doesn't mean you can oil through them.

He'd need pushrods made for oiling too, and I'm pretty sure you'd need modified rockers for that to work too else you'd only be oiling the top of the pushrod against the cup in the rocker. The concern about the oil holes in the shafts is about oil between the rocker and the shaft.

Doug's are cool and all but I've got a brand new set off right now to ding them in a few places - hits power steering and the torsion bar. Actually I should say they lay right up against the power steering and torsion bars. Close, but no cigar. Anyway don't confuse yourself thinking it's a...

The body's fiberglass so they're kind of a hassle to get rid of.

That rusty spot on the cross bar is kind of unexpected

It seemed obvious to me from the start the whole clip goes under the stud. But then I don't know how many times it ended up with only one side under while I was trying to install it. So I knew that was too loose to work. I thought that odd shape on the clip it might be used for clipping it in...

I tried it on my z-bar on the bench and noticed there is more room to fit the clip there than there is where I'm working under the dash, and it clipped right in. I'm thinking about thinning the ends of that linkage rod to help with that. Thanks,

Is there a trick to installing these clips? I can't get anywhere with them by trying to squeeze and slide them onto the pedal/zbar studs. The shape of the slot makes me think there's a trick to it. Thanks.

Dave I noticed the photo you posted earlier was turned like that too. I went with the direction it was turned in the FSM. It's odd most of them are that way because the contour in the inner fender aligns with it when it's turned the other way.

FWIW I had to patch the inner fender because there were extra holes with bonus cracks between them. I didn't cut anything out, just plug welded a piece over top of it to go from good metal to good metal. I zapped the cracks between those holes a few times before covering them up. The...

One pickle I got caught in was needing to pick up the front end after the K-frame was bolted in but before I had the engine off the cart. The cart was in the way of using a floor jack so I lifted the car up engine and all like this - pucker time but it held no problem to raise it up just enough...

I've got one laying around unused and old enough it doesn't have the EGR stuff on it. Seems like there I saw an online magazine article where one of the RoadKill guys did a shoot out with that model in it, but might have gone down the memory hole.

There's barely enough sidewall to fit the RWL. :poke:

i thought of this thread while reading the instructions for my McLeod setup a week after I installed it without reading them first. Anyway, McLeod calls for 1/4" between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate fingers. So comparatively 0.145 isn't really a big gap.

I followed your lead and lifted a small block/4-speed on the k-frame into my Duster using a cherry picker and juggling jackstands. I put the car on a pair of tall jackstands before I dropped the k-frame out to begin with (no engine, had elephant ears), hooked on to the k-frame and dropped it to...

Go ahead with one of those low lift low capacity HF aluminum jobs, then go right back and get one of these when you can't get the work done with the little guy. 3 Ton Long-Reach Low-Profile Professional Floor Jack with RAPID PUMP, Blue Man am I ever glad I bought mine when that model first...

I've got more flattening out to do on the inner fender well before welding it but the studs line up now. I appreciate everyone's help. :thumbsup:

Whoever did it tried to weld the one extra hole to the inner fender but all they accomplished was making a flat side on the hole. Not even a little bit of penetration. I took the bolt out and it fell right off.

Yes it's a bolt. So, i's in the wrong place. Now to get it removed and in the right place. Thanks everybody!

I seem to have an alignment problem here That is a 734 10-1/2" bellhousing and a Brewer's BSB734 ball stud bracket, which should work on this 71 Duster. The engine is installed and the trans mount is installed, so I'm pretty sure those are where they should be. The engine mount brackets and...

I had forgotten about the ratchet strap. :thumbsup: The problem I keep running into is I have to make adjustments to install things, and then adjust them again for the next thing. :BangHead: :) My next stop is the transmission forum, because when I screwed the new pivot ball stud iat the...

The fun never stops. With the spacer under the motor mount, the header's in the way of the torsion bar. Without the spacer, the header lays right against the torsion bar (one tube on each side), but the bar goes in the socket like it should, so it's a matter of "barely touching". I think I'm...