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it's possible to shorten the slot itselfs Note that secondary side are usually higher up but not always. This guy went on a journey from greenhorn to a carby smarty. :) https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/racingfuelsystems/transfer-slot-lengths-t1285.html#p11866...

The "economizer" system accomplishes almost the same thing as a t-slot restrictor, but is not a transistion slot restrictor. It is arguably (and I think practically too) a more effective system because of how it works.

Its big because that is just meant to be a passageway, not a restriction. The outer passage goes to the idle port and is restricted by the needle valves (idle mix screws). The inner passage goes to the transfer slot and is restricted by the slot width, depth, and amount exposed to manifold...

I should have mentioned another important factor in the spring force is the length, although I think you already figured that out. The amount the primary spring has to be extended to get installed is what creates the force holding the weight from moving outward. I may have some more pictures...

Good news. That's heavy spring is not stretched out. That loop is there on purpose. it causes the advance to slow down around 1600 rpm. That and the slight angle on the plate is all part controlling the curve. The small diameter spring maybe getting a bit stretched and this will effect when...

There's no load. You can't use the numbers from no load to do much more than getting a sense of what the engine is like. a. With no load engines will love lean mixtures and lots of advance to match. b. At idle rpm the engine makes relatively little power. Any load at idle is a relatively...

This may help too. TDC is when the #1 piston is at the very top of the compression stroke. Top Dead Center Timing is the number of crankshaft degree either before or after TDC the spark will be fired. Initial or base timing: Timing with no advance added. Normally on a stock engine timing at...

Best advice can offer is to find someone close to you who can help. maybe Junkyardhero of moparofficial I say that because you've posted that computer is difficult and its no easier on this end of the screen for us if we don't know the specifics. Second best. I'll give this a shot. Need to...

Well since this topic has wandered all over the place, for those interested in a deep dive with Shrinker, and Klaus came across this one while looking for a different thread. It does touch on timing for a race car. Also Klaus's explanation for rich - lean changes between gears better answers...

I beleive you that no one at the company's could, or were willing, to say why they were following this fad. Techniques that Brasswell used for specific race cars can not be applied broadly. Somehow that got missed by some the folks who wanted to sell us on the newest latest and greatest. I'd...

Even Tuner has said at times to lock a distributor - when in some situations its the easiest path to get the results wanted. I can totally respect that. Sometimes its the practical thing to do. But if you can build even a small advance into the distributor it should help find more power.

@9secRR. See the links in post #44. I think those will answer your question.

...fully understand it right away, but it worked. My suggestion is to map out the carb which sounds like you're already planning to do. I don't *think* there is anything inherently better or worse with the XP versus an AED. If you want someone to fixup a carb for your situation, then contact...

You mean like this? Tuner has a gift in understanding and explaining how the science and engineeering are applied in practice. I do agree. When you see something wacky, there is no point in starting there. Start with a combo that is at least in the ballpark unless you have the time and...

You don't have to. I have no idea of what you're working with or your goals with this vehicle. People certainly have run locked timing and made it work for them. MP setup their race distributors (aka tach drive distributors) for easy starting and to maintain high rpm timing flat or very...

You may need to redefine your perfromance goals. Its hard to know what you mean by good. I define them as a best power and efficiency for the condition. We can judge this objectively for most steady state conditions. There's some links in this post that I think will be useful as they provide...

Out of the box most of these 3 e-hole blocks are over 'emulsified'. In other words the fuel is no longer an emulsion of liquid with little tiney amounts of air but liquid with big bubbles coalescing randomly and unpredictably. So maybe the problem isn't fuel. Or the circuits you're messing...

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/racingfuelsystems/what-to-do-about-winter-fuel-in-hot-temperatures-t1459.html?sid=ddb6411031c1524c93a664dac43cbddb#p14152 Using stainless steel instead of plain steel tubing is another way to reduce heat transfer.

Yep. But the funny thing is some restorers want only certain things correct and not others. Like the correct paint overspray but not the correct distributor or wipers. Makes me scratch my head, but that's their preferences. I'd be interested in the 273 dual point just because I want to run...

I had it done to a set of early production TTI shorties. Didn't think the pricing was out of line. That's very subjective of course. It's the only product discussed here that is actually a ceramic coating. All of the others have some sort of polymer binder and any ceramic materials are mixed...

I can't recall if the old early A-Body Dougs were 1.5 off the head. Mapes has them on his Goldfish. Those were something like three sections on one side. That's the only off-the shelf ones that come to mind. 1 5/8 is far more common that's for sure.

Brian Slowe made them. You know I have Pipemax and went as close to Elston's suggestions as we could. I have a few extra flange plates for future projects or if someone else wants because Brian wasn't comfortable getting into blacksmithing the tubes into the flange. Not going into more here...

Nah. Mine has 1.5" tubes off the heads. But its only a 340 ;) Now as far as find them in the marketplace, well that's another story.

...but depending on placement and airflow probaly OK. The areas where its very close seem limited to heat sources. Brake fluid should be good to 300 *F. On the other hand portions of the fuel begins to vaporize at just over 100 F. By 130 F, a significant proportion will be vaporized -...

I don't see any substantial contradiction between what is posted here and the snip you posted. Don't get hung up with the casting material. While the change in material does effect rates of heat transfer, and the change in dimensions for a given change in temperature, they are also a different...

Whoa. So you're still putting things together. OK. Put whatever intake on it you think will make you happy. Seriously. If it fits, has the ports you want, go for it. Street contender/dominator single plane if you want short, or RPM for taller (although a drop base cleaner may be needed and...

PS. Even when cruising, when there is a slight downhill and we lighten up on the throttle, a high vacuum is created under the mostly closed throttles and guess what happens. There's less air mass coming through and more vacuum at the idle port and transition slot so the 'idle circuit' starts...

Changing the idle mix screws changes the cruise AFR means the speed your are calling cruise is still mostly on the 'idle circuit'. It should really be called low speed or low throttle circuit, and in fact that's the term Chrysler often used. Only reason to avoid the ethanol is if you're not...

I was afraid it might be hose for fuel. I was hoping the fuel filter weas getting fed from the mechanical pump that was hidden in the shadow., Only reason to run an electric fuel pump would be if the cam is lacking the eccentric. But that long hose suggests the steel line has been cut short...

I know a few people who have made those work well. Had a rep for coming from the factory with metal shavings in the passages. This one must be OK since its been running for the new owner.