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As I said.....keep the p/up wires separate from the coil neg wire & HT leads. If you look at the MSD 6 box [ & others ], the p/up wires exit the box on their own...& at the other end of the box from where the coil wires exit. They did that for a reason..... Similarly, on modules such as HEI &...

What are you doing with the car???

George gets it....

I would use Classic Air again, but beware - they market this like it is all scienced out and all the problems are solved. This is absolutely not true - a "perfect fit kit" it is not. If you are reasonably skilled hot rodder who can do some light fabrication you can install the kit and address...

I imagine that would be possible. PM me for specifics.

Just a Wyoming Mopar guy here to learn.... Maybe I can get inspiration to finish a car or two.

Looking for a Black 68 Dart horn steering wheel “ button. “ Like the picture only in black ( this one is Burgundy if someone wants to trade ?) .

Steel with a Magnum gasket on one side and an LA gasket on the other. They aren’t gaskets themselves.

I wonder what best way to feed it oil is? I could pull oil off the plugged fitting on the 90 degree oil adapter Use AN fittings and those? Or possibly... Could it be used for transmission fluid and do.the same AN hose-fittings ? If so, and shipping is ok I will take it What would shipping be...

What material are you using? Soft copper? Or a composite like Comedic uses on their exhaust gaskets for headers? Something else?

No worries. What you said was relevant and correct. I may have missed something. I am hoping to be as happy with my hydro clutch as you are with yours.

If you want to do it right, you should get 2 full quarter panels, or the rear section Hemmiss Dart suggested. Did you do the cutting,or was it like that when you got it, ???. That body needs a lot of costly work. Dave

I'll switch the amp to sub on the cross over and or set them anywhere around 50-80 khz. Depends on the mids used and size

I liked their kit when I put it in my '70 Charger. It hasn't been perfect though. I don't like the way the slide controls are designed. The A/C-Heat slide is fore and aft. This makes it hard to know which way to push or pull to get the temperature where you want it. I've had trouble with it...

It really depends on the rest of your drivetrain setup, gearing, vehicle weight, and camshaft, but I honestly think the only thing the LD340 would do over an M1 single plane (which is an improved copy of a Holley Srip Dominator) on a 416 stroker is make the car go slower than what it is now...

Just a side note, I had a coupla engines break rocker shafts. The oil pressure gauge banged off "0" psi at 1/2 engine rpms. So pump resistance should reduce a bunch as the passage opens.

You redeemed yourself with the bike fixen girl and then you go and do this **** again, what the hell man!

Maybe I misunderstood but he asked specifically how much travel the throwout bearing should have? The concept is simple and should be the same no matter what the application. There should be very little travel for the reasons I gave. Too much travel and you'll potentially push the piston out of...

I agree lol

I have a Classic Auto Air Exact Fit setup in my 69 Barracuda. It works great. I put it in myself about 15 years ago.

I don't think he has the nuts. :lol:

I agree with @Icetech. Do it yourself. I have done several pairs of bucket seats and some back seats. It is pretty easy.

Don't forget to add "I dare you"

Lol, we were already texting. B1 headed bad ***.

I'd sell the LD340 and put an Air Gap on it. I LOVE my Air Gap.

You sure that’s not Leadfoot’s girl?

If your gonna use the ld340 then mill the intake surface on the heads like they should have done originally, but don’t cut the intake. I doubt you’d find any advantage with the dual plane in that combo. I’d keep running the M1 in your shoes.

it's fine. fffiiiinnnneeee. there's 60 with the drill. i mean, if you're really concerned with it, you could always get some white lith grease in the can and just aim it on in there with the little straw... the valve covers are already off anyway. then just hit the valve train with some WD...