...issues, as it allows air to come in between the hood and core support that would normally be coming through the grill.
But if you aren't going over 200* and you aren't experiencing boil over I wouldn't sweat it. These engines were typically put together with 195* stats and designed to run...
Well, with 4:10's and cruising at 60mph your turning what, 33 to 3500 RPM's?
A 10* rise in temp doesn't seem out of the realm of possibility with the engine working a little harder. Do you have the hood to core support seal in place?
That mating surface in the second pis looks pretty waffled to me. Take a piece of wet or dry sand paper, lay it on a flat surface, and sand that thing flat, by gripping the neck and moving it around on the sand paper.
The stat fits like most I have ever seen.
Just because the stat is new, doesn't mean it's good. Pull it and put it in a pan of water, use a candy thermometer to see when it is opening, IF it is opening.
Don't mean it's good. I would question it.
Check the water temp in the rad once the engine is warmed up.
Did you check the stat to make sure it's opening at 180*?
I did think about that, and I may change it, just need a longer hose. It has a barbed fitting so a small clamp and I know it wouldn't pop off. Then just leave the petcock open.
All you have to do is attach a hose inside to the inlet tube, that's what I did with mine, it works like a champ. Mine has a petcock on the bottom to drain it, now I don't have to use it.
But you're right, it is only a puke tank.
Why not remove the sensor that is in there, and replace it with the new one?
Just make sure the gauge and sensor are matched to each other. I bought a complete kit, gauge, sensor mount etc.
Thanks, I am planning on doing the ammeter bypass, so at that point I assume I can upgrade the alternator.
Accessories? Lol, the only thing I have is lights and wipers. :D