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Well, I scavenged the vacuum canister from the new one and put on the old one back on, setting the point gap again first, and she's running about as good as I've ever seen her. Ignition timing stays pretty steady. I guess I can call the new distributor a dud. I started to run a compression test...

Today after work I'm planning to put the old distributor on and see what happens. I recall I only replaced it because the advance canister leaked and I couldn't source just the canister, and could only find a distributor from AutoZone in stock. Every test I ran on the new distributor has been...

Ok I won't say it but I couldn't find any other refurbished LA distributors in stock from Classic Industries or Year One. I still have the previous distributor that I can give another go.

Tested between the contact plate in the distributor and bare metal on the block and got 0.8 ohm.

It's a new distributor, and I haven't messed with any of the mechanical advance inside of it, but not impossible.

I have not. If I am understanding correctly, this is the distributor drive shaft bushing inside the block by the back of the cam, correct? I check the teeth for excessive wear by using a screwdriver to rotate that gear as described by another poster and found little rotational movement. The gear...

I did not. It's set per stock on the BBD, which is ported, and I disconnect and cap the vacuum advance when setting timing.

Stock 318

I do need to run the test again, and use the oil check to verify if it's the pistons rings. The heads were rebuilt in 2021 by a engine building shop including the valves and installing hardened seats so I am pretty confident they are good. I read that low compression numbers across the board...

I've had the thought of a bad ground but am unsure how exactly to check it. Could you go into more detail on how to check it? I am unsure of what should be grounding to what inside the distributor.

It had very little movement.

That's how I tested and diagnosed a stretched timing chain. It did not fix my timing issue though.

I've had for a while a problem with varying spark timing and it's been getting worse, varying about 3-4 deg each rotation. Now the engine runs pretty poorly at idle and does not get better with RPMs. I've put on a new distributor, cap and rotor included, and just checked point gap again...

The idle fuel mixture screws will shut the engine off if closed (screwed all the way in). When adjusting idle fuel mixture I'll set them at two and a half turns out and then close them until vacuum drops, then back them out a quarter turn. I do this after setting initial timing and having the...

I drive the car pretty frequently, about 1200 miles a year in warm weather. It will sit through winter though. This road trip was on gas filled up that morning. Yes, I've been setting the hot idle all the way down and setting timing by advancing to where engine has highest vacuum. I have been...

Thanks for all the info! I will have to digest it. Pulled the plugs and photographed them. They probably have about 3,000 miles on them. Yes, I set timing with the vacuum advance can unplugged, engine hot, and throttle completely closed. I do have the idle speed screw adjusted all the way out...

Yes, it's a BBD. I did try something new with the initial timing. I used to stick it at 10 deg, then backed it down to 8, but this time I advanced it until the engine started running rough, then backed it down a couple degrees. Ended up around 14 deg btdc. I have also been considering this is...

...rods are required for heavy load enrichment. Am I reading that correctly? I'd have to study further on how exactly to adjust the metering rods. *added* The vacuum advance I've had a lot of work on. I ended up replacing the entire distributor because the advance diaphragm broke. It's not...

Went for a road trip in my 1968 barracuda, and the car drove well except for situations where I hammer it. It's always had a bit of a hesitation problem that's been easy to get around, and don't know if this is related. When I floor it the engine was run poorly (slight sputter) for a few seconds...

I'm having issues with my stock temperature and oil gauges underreporting in my 1968 Barracuda. They appear to report about half of the values that I'd expect. I paid good money to have all of the gauges refurbished and they still do it. Could something outside of the gauges be causing this...

This may be too obvious to be a good solution, but would a hot glue gun be a good solution if the remainder of whatever the factory used isn't sufficient to hold down the lenses?

Thanks for the advice! I have the same gauge lenses to install, and found a few issues with the bezel in the form of broken guide pegs and some of the warning light lenses fell out as the hot melt adhesive holding them on peeled off. The guy who previously "restored" the dash used masking tape...

The original gauge lenses are scratched up, stained, and one of the decorative center pieces was broken off and lost before I got it. I got replacements, but need to figure out how to best remove the originals without damaging anything. I recall finding a guide somewhere but can't remember where...

Well, I've found where the problem was. It was the wiper switch. I figured the ticking had to be something just behind the dash and with it happening with the engine not running it had to be either the flashers, wipers, or radio as others already pointed out. I just unplugged everything until it...

Thanks, this is very helpful. The regulator is new from classic industries. It says it's electronic, instead of mechanical, so I don't know if that enters into the conclusion. I still have the previous one and I didn't think it was malfunctioning when I replaced it. I am open to the idea that...

I just reinstalled the gauge cluster, removing the circuit boards to access the gauges and reinstalling them.

Well, ran some tests. Pulled the steering wheel and inspected the switch, switch is fine. Disconnected both the switch connector and the flasher, Ammeter still did the wave with ignition in both ACC and ON. Found a broken wire on the switch cables after the disconnect. The orange wire to the...

I think you're narrowing it here. The original switch had a broken cam so I replaced it with one from classic industries, including the wiring down to the connector. I was immediately disappointed in it as the new cams are just a bit too wide to be hit by the cancel pin in the steering wheel, so...

I've not added anything to the car that draws power. Electrical system should be completely stock. I can check if one of the circuits are drawing over the fuses. I recall reading there's a way to isolate shorts that way.

This was just after a cold start after sitting for a while, and I didn't have the charger on it, so it was probably just charging. I can try putting the battery on the charger.