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...problems. Just saying. If I had to guess, maybe the screw-in studs are not properly seated in the back of the axles, and/or not installed at 90* to the flanges. Or maybe; by any chance are you running a manual trans and/or a high-compression engine? and/or Cal-Tracs? and/or Zero Brake...

You know what; my 400hp/367 doesn't even have a fuel pressure gauge. Nor a quality oil-pressure gauge, Nor a quality coolant temperature gauge. All my car has is the factory slow gauges that are about as forthcoming as a pregnant wife. Gauges are just tools. Build your systems with confidence...

Mechanical pump? Dead-headed regulator? What happens if you rev it up a bit? say 1000rpm. BTW on the street, 3psi is lots, so long as delivers the volume.

Yes, when you reinstall that valve body, it has to be centered just right, else the car will self-steer. The usual way is to leave the vb-casting slightly loose, and start up the engine. As soon as you do, chances are that it will not be in the correct position, and so, the steering wheel will...

To find a leak, just seal the valve covers and inject air thru the dipstick tube. Regulate the pressure to about 3psi, not more that 4! Then hit her with soapy water around the suspected areas. Easy Peasy........ if you have a regulator.

oh crap here we go again.....

Com'on, my friend, stick with me. Name one part on a carb, or one circuit, that is redundant. You said it yourself, namely; "claimed to be engine tuners". There is a very strong possibility that your tuner acquaintances DO know about this, cuz it's darn near impossible to have a sweetheart of...

FWI On a factory car, that runs four same-sized tires, the front brakes do about 85% of the work. On my hi-perf street car, I found that, as the rear tires got swapped ever bigger, I could dial in more and more rear brake, until eventually with 295s, the Rear now has Zero proportioning; and I...

Dynomite! But if the mixture screws are only 1.75T open, then you still have the option of trading away some transfer fuel to get some more idle mixture. It's an option. How she runs at cruising speed with just 1.75Turns out, will determine what to do next.

The transfer slot is down inside the primary throttle bore, on the front side, and is the primary source of fuel delivery from idle to roughly 30% throttle opening, (I'm guessing) when the Mainjet comes on line. At idle, transfer-slot fuel is augmented by fuel coming from the Mixture screw ports.

...out 4) Fill the bowls with gas and start it up, then let her warm up. 5) Now, replumb the VA to the sparkport. 6) after she is warm, the idle at 16* initial will be too fast. RETARD the stinking timing until the in-gear idle-rpm is in the window of 650 to 550; and in Neutral is not more than...

One thing? notta chance I can keep it to just one. Power-slides, J-hooks, Dual blackies for 3 gears, lighting them up at 50mph, adjustable rear-steering, jumping, rallying, bunny-hops, cruising in overdrive at 85=2100 .. If I had to pick one I suppose it would have to be endurance; the ability...

Hyup 30 is fine. what ain't fine, IMHO, is the high idle. There's only one engine combo I have had that ever needed more than 700/750 , which was the 292/108; and it turned out that the high idle was due to something else. After I fixed that, she would idle right down. I only ran 700 or more...

Now that is awesome information right there, and free too. If I could, I'd give you at least a hundred likes.

...at stall rpm. So then, if your stall is 1700, and at WOT detonation begins there at 20 degrees, then your timing curve can be from 20 to say 35*, going from 1700 to 3500. Doing the math, that is 15 degrees over 1800 rpm equals 0.83 degree per 100 rpm. How the engine gets to 20*@1700, she...

Carrot cake with a hint of nutmeg, smothered in cream cheese icing. Had two pieces. Yum!

Here's the scoop If you are reading the idle timing at 12* with the Vacuum advance hooked to full-time advance ........ Then, when you slap the gas pedal, the manifold vacuum drops towards zero, which instantly retards the vacuum advance timing towards zero. Suppose your V-can has 14* in it, and...

My guess is that your Engine went rich from getting too much fuel, that there is now liquid fuel just laying on the intake floor, and throttle is Too Far Closed to deal with the migrating/evaporating fuel. IMO; here are your options; do as many as it takes to solve the problem. First; 1) make...

For a street car with a stock 5.9, just about anything 750 or smaller will hit all the marks. As Rusty said, that 650 "carburetor sounds about right." 'Course I'm kindof partial to Thermoquads, or spreadbores in general.

Friends, IDK what to say, except you guys surprised the heck out of me and totally made my day great! Thank you one and all. May GodAlmighty reward you for spreading the love.

The PT KD is NOT required for WOT kickdown. It is called a Part-Throttle kd so that you do not HAVE to floor it. Some shift kits crank the line pressure up quite a bit, and eliminate the Governor pressure. Now, the kickdown linkage controls the Throttle pressure, to increase the pressures to...

In 1999, I bought/installed the TTI 3" system on my 68 Barracuda, I ordered it with the turn downs. At that time it came for the longer Dart wheelbase. I started the installation from the back, putting the turn-downs where I thought they should be, then, and fabricating new hangers as I went. In...

And the PT KD mechanism can be retrofit down to 67 IIRC, AND the slanty trans may have the required parts. However, I gotta tell ya that the stock A904 from a 71 Demon is likely the all-time best shifting transmissions I was ever lucky enough to drive. Almost Immediately, I pulled that trans...

...blast out the alarm-song. and she does this on 87E10; which I highly recommend, cuz, you know, it has alcohol in it....... which boils at 173*F; which with 11/1 Scr/188psi CCP, the heat of compression, has already made it ready to burn, long before the ignition system lights it off. And...

Whatever I have on the shelf. I sureaschit wouldn't buy a new one for that combo., especially if it is running 2.76 type rear gears. Instead, I would put a 2800 convertor in the Bellhouse, lol.

If the hesitation occurs as you are mashing the gas from idle, then, before you do anything, increase the rpm by 100, retime the accelerator pump as may be necessary, then see what happens. If this improves the situation, but the idle-rpm seems excessive, retard the idle timing, which is the...

I bought a kit at the dealer with several pieces. Try this link https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/power-steering-reaction-pressure-springs.209214/ These springs delay boost and reduce the amount of boost, so you can tailor the feel of the box to your liking. No more one-finger...

IMO, not a big deal. Get your Transfers set-up right and it'll probably run fine.

Wrong toe will wear out both tires. One tire only, is a camber problem. The cause of that could be like like fourfold. My guess is the upper control arm has slipped it's adjustment. This is a common occurrance if new cam-bolts have recently been installed. The thread on the Moogs is not enough...