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LOL I had not noticed that the bolt can not be reversed ? on the frame mount.

Greg, can you weld? Side to side movement on these can be reduced considerably by welding a piece of scrap across them, if room, both front and rear

I just have to say, I have NEVER seen a T bar come out at an angle like that. Do you have a shop manual? Somewhere in there is the car/ unibody dimensional points. I would be checking the car for dimensional "bent." And it's already been mentioned, are the bars bent? Other than...

I think you have something bent, as in from an accident, or rust, etc. May be the K, may be the frame horns, etc. I see no way that even without the factory bolts, you could get a K that far off just from slopping it back and forth in the mounting holes.

I did similar for the much hated screw on fan clutches

First we must know what the OP is talking about. I don't. You talking about the spindle nut, which adjusts the front bearings? Or the lower spindle bolts to the steering knuckle/ ball joint?

Well for one thing the 70/ later is column mounted ignition switch. I would think there is considerable difference, as 67/ later is a different body than 66/ earlier.

Used to be at the old Big block Dart site, but they changed it. hang on....... Here https://web.archive.org/web/20180531144810/http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/techindex.shtml

Nope. There are 4 pieces that matter. You must have the correct steering box to fit the pitman that matches the center link, and then the correct idler arm

READ YOUR factory service manual. If you do not have one, wander over to MyMopar.com and download one, for free Some of those got there because of the guys right here

I realize that the T bars, etc, can be a challenge to would be swaps etc. But the long lived almost nearly design unchanged front suspension, which, really, exists not only from the first A bodies but the larger cars as well, and in the case of A bodies, even just the 67-76...

Engineering. Engineer. Math. Maff is hard. Also realize this: Just because someone manufactured one and markets the thing does not mean it is strong enough. Or that it has even been engineered mostly "at all." It also does not mean that a given product can put up with street use...

I think you might had better read your answer? Through 72, small upper ball joints with FACTORY drum or disk, but not if you convert to 73/ later disc I think we pretty much decided that "maybe" 73 and later 9" drum factory use small joints, but "maybe" the 10 front drums use large...

I cannot name all the aftermarket a arms but the uppers are likely to be "big" ball joints for disk brakes. But if they did have the proper upper balls, the alignment range varies. Some of them are "set" with possibly additional caster built in, and some are more adjustable...

I think it is in the service manuals. MyMopar.com, they are free

AND DO NOT REV the engine. Turn it once or twice, shut it off, let it set. Air in the system gets "foamed up" and takes time to work out in the pump. Let it sit for 15 min or more, cycle the wheel again, SLOW.

Let me just say this: Whatever you do to end up with an anti-sway bar, I guarantee you it is worth the trouble

To put this another way, you want the spindle "leaned back" as far as you can get via the offset, so you want the hole in the rear bushing inboard towards the center of the car, and the front bushing hole outboard, towards "you"

^^I was going to say that but decided not to. Please just answer the question. The question which the OP asked^^

Any spring shop, in Spokane, it's been Pohl Spring for as long as I know of---has or makes spring clips. As someone said you do not want them tight, the springs must slide and move as they arch. The ones I got have no bolts, the "U" goes through the mate end and the tabs fold over

The only really important thing is bolt shank size and head diameter, and of course length which you can hacksaw shorter. you can grind them shorter if needed, and actually grind the heads smaller dia if needed. Just grind "lightly" as if you were sharpening a knife, so as not...

Parts stores USED to carry them, typically Dorman. Any good spring shop, AKA in Spokane, Pohl Spring. They have been in business since before I was born.

You SHOULD be able to tell where the aftermarket whell adapter belongs. Don't you have the stock wheel? Compare the master spline in the original wheel. But it also seems to me the master spline is "even" that is, either up or down when centered. The coupler is keyed. It can be upside...

What you must do. The tie rod ends point the opposite direction between 73/ later and 72/ earlier. There are 4 items that must be compatible to use the linkage Steering linkage can be 68--76 but you must split it as so: Determine what pitman it takes to fit your steering box...

I would guess no. Wouldn't those have primarily been radial tires by then?

I somewhat disagree with front end, simply because so much of it is a Chinese puzzle, AKA you have to take much of it apart to do some of it. I recommend you dig in and DO IT ALL if it is a situation of unknown past, unknown wear, you don't want to do a bunch of work and then HAVE to...

Here's the "other way around. It IS NOT really that big a deal to block up the engine, and drop the K out the bottom, with the engine still in the car. I did mine on my hoist, but so far as the engine, I used blocking, padded by old rags, jacked on the frame rails and fender aprons...

Obtain plugs for the brake hoses, and since this is an overseas car, no idea if they are American 3/16 inverted flare or not. Since you surely will replace the upper arm bushings, separate the ball joint and remove the upper arm. This now leaves the spindle, steering linkage, and so on...

!!WOW!! THANKS!!! For all the info

Before you weld that all up you might want to tack it, then jig up the box, pitman and center link, and make sure that height business makes sense. The center link should pretty much be parallel to plumb / level, and you can determine that from the K to frame mounts Also the pitman...