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I believe a 2 barrel. But for me I needed something I can modify and this will work well for me. I can weld and fab what I need with this.

Found! No wonder they call him the “JUNKYARD HERO” Thanks Aaron!

Yes I want to keep it with the bracket rod assemt

Well that’s an excellent question. I had a working set up with my 340 automatic. But replaced my M1 intake manifold to a duel plane (the ones that can be used for both LA and Magnums). The new manifold Magnum vertical bolt locations sit prominent/higher and the bracket can not be...

Looking for a kickdown bracket for my small block. This is the one I have from a 318 but need to modify it so I need another one to cobble together a solution that will work for me.

Yeah I am getting some funky resistance measurements as well in circuit. I am trying to measure current draw as well with my current meter as well as isolating the circuits to make sure no active components are messing up the measurements.

Yup my ignition switch is Ohmic. 32 Ohms from Ignition #2 to Brown to Red Power feed. This in all positions. Explains the 2.5V voltage was seen in the off state. Also Blue is Ohmic. Let’s see no fuse on these lines either. Thats a fire ready to go IMO……

1970 Plymouth Satellite. I am suspecting that all the new stuff comes from China and probably the same factory. So I just ordered one. NOS are rare and quite expensive. Keeping my fingers crossed. As most of the electrical components from China are highly inferior.

Thank you this makes sense that the Blue and Brown are jumped directly without a ballast resistor. That is how I have it. I am working with a non standardized ignition connector. I just realized that on the schematic that on the ignition switch side the wire colors are not oriented the same as...

Guys can you confirm that ignition switch energies both the dark blue and brown connections at the same time for “Ignition #2”? Meaning they are the same node when the key is in the run position.?. Many thanks…..

Looks like I need to replace my newer ignition switch. Other than nos are they all made the same? Ie Chinese knock offs? Is there a vendor or brand I should buy? Also do they sell the mating connector to the switch side on the main harness that I can buy? The one that plugs into the switch...

Thanks I was/am planning to check what else maybe affecting the voltage on the thin red control line on the MSD box. I think you’re right on this. BTW the coil is clean with only the MSD BOX CONNECTED. It’s now 110F in the garage so I have a limited window of extended time to work out there...

Well I interrupted the Brown Ignition #2 and put a switch to 12V bat. The engine fired right up BUT flipped the switch and it kept running! I had to disconnect the battery to stop it. So I am looking at the schematics trying to figure out why the kill switch didn’t kill the motor……

Question what is the impact of having a connection directly on the coil?

That switch idea is a killer idea! I verified that it will work with a jumper from vbat and my MSD box lit up! Thanks!!

Oh I like this idea a lot! It’s way easier than a switch replacement! The switch has like 20 hours on it! If it’s bad then its of crappy design/material and can happen again. I do get like 2V maybe a short or ohmic contact??

No power to the fuse box acc. I ran it down to the wire harness of the switch itself at the connector output and it’s isolated. Again I did have it working but something changed.

I am thinking of supplying 12V manually to Ignition #2 from the battery just to confirm function and start the motor. Will having Ignition 1 and Ignition 2 on AT THE SAME TIME BE AN ISSUE?

This is it.

Thanks it’s a 1970 Sport Satellite using an MSD set as shown. It was running but something broke/changed. I lost 12V signal to the MSD (2V) power/battery was good. Same at the VR 2V. Traced and isolated the brown wire out of the ignition 2V. Red incoming feed to the ignition switch was 13V...

After successfully starting and running I lost ignition #2 voltage. All I did was install a new radiator and turn signal switch. Traced (keep in mind this is a B body but I bet it’s almost the sMe as an A?) the lack of voltage all the way to the ignition switch red (source?) where I have bat...

Thanks my application is entirely different. I have a 1970 Sport Satellite bbody. So I ordered the MOP750A. I have a lot of room and an existing electric fan set up. I’ll post here how it goes but I doubt Ilhave much issues that I can’t handle. BTW KKS has not gotten back to me. I think they...

I just fired up my 340 after 4 years of being offline and it went better than I anticipated. At this point I have to replace my aluminum radiator as it’s leaking. So I didn’t keep it running long. I did however notice a lot of smoke and I am guessing I have some header leaks as well as a lot of...

Thanks for the update. I just pulled the trigger on the Cold Case Radiator that Chris recommended. The unit is in stick and should ship tomorrow. Glad you had good luck with yours. I support people who support their products. Cold Case so far is excellent service. KKS must be defunct for now...

I recently pm’d @Ccas hopefully Ill hear back about what Coldcase offers ffor my 1970 Bbody. Really need a solution to my failed radiator. KKS might be out of business.

OK so I guess this is as good a place as any to provide some feedback on the KKS radiators. I am not an expert on radiator design/construction, so any inputs are appreciated. Fitment was excellent. The welds all looked really nice as well as the overall construction. The radiator worked fine...

Ah I got it now! I had to reread your post several times. The key is alignment of the reluctor and pickup alignment. This answers my question fully! It does matter how the body is set up or more precisely how the reluctor and pickup are aligned! If perfectly aligned then what you read on the...

I guess another way to look at what I am asking is this. Seems like most of you want me to put in more initial timing as I indicated I am at 7 degrees. If I was to NOT change the crank position BUT instead rotate and advance the distributor would that not do the same thing? If so the initial...

Thats exactly what I did. I can change to 15° no problem. Just wondering how the body position of the distributor affects what we read on the block or does it just not matter. .

Thanks I am not at all concerned about if its 7° or 10°. What I was asking is….how does the distributor body location/orientation affect the initial actual timing or does it just not matter. If the timing marks indicate 7° on the block/balancer does it matter if the distributor is centered or...