Ignition switch questions

[340inabbody]

Looks like I need to replace my newer ignition switch. Other than nos are they all made the same? Ie Chinese knock offs? Is there a vendor or brand I should buy?

Also do they sell the mating connector to the switch side on the main harness that I can buy? The one that plugs into the switch?

Thanks

 

[remytherat]

I got mine from classic industries. It’s been fine, had no problems.

 

[cudamark]

What year and model are you working with?

 

[340inabbody]

What year and model are you working with?

1970 Plymouth Satellite. I am suspecting that all the new stuff comes from China and probably the same factory. So I just ordered one. NOS are rare and quite expensive. Keeping my fingers crossed. As most of the electrical components from China are highly inferior.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yeah purdy much other than NOS factory, or older aftermarket like Echlin, OLD Standard Ignition, or the like, total chinkesium is all we got. That's why I hawk ebay for older NOS stuff.

 

[cudamark]

I don't know anyone who has the main wiring harness connector for the ignition switch. Maybe try some of the wiring harness manufacturers like M&H. Otherwise you may have to get one off a used harness or buy a new harness.

 

[340inabbody]

Yup my ignition switch is Ohmic. 32 Ohms from Ignition #2 to Brown to Red Power feed. This in all positions. Explains the 2.5V voltage was seen in the off state. Also Blue is Ohmic. Let’s see no fuse on these lines either. Thats a fire ready to go IMO……

 

[67Dart273]

Yup my ignition switch is Ohmic. 32 Ohms from Ignition #2 to Brown to Red Power feed. This in all positions. Explains the 2.5V voltage was seen in the off state. Also Blue is Ohmic. Let’s see no fuse on these lines either. Thats a fire ready to go IMO……

I keep trying to tell you guys NOT to do {rely} on this. Now, don't get me wrong, you may be right in this case. But PLEASE do not try and use continuity and ohm readings on high current circuits. "The usual" is, that it is way worse than continuity might suggest. In other words you measure resistance and "figure" voltage drop, but the usual "truth" is that the poor contact/ connection heats up and drops WORSE under actual operating conditions..

It is actually pretty difficult to troubleshoot higher current circuits without getting led down the rose colored path, when using continuity and resistance.

 

[340inabbody]

Yeah I am getting some funky resistance measurements as well in circuit. I am trying to measure current draw as well with my current meter as well as isolating the circuits to make sure no active components are messing up the measurements.