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If hot tank means the caustic type solution, the cam bearings will have to be replaced. I didn't think too many of these old caustic hot tanks were left?

That's good information. Thanks!

B&M valve body mods as found: Line pressure spring was heavier than stock (natural color) 1-2 shift valve spring had been replaced (blue color) Found the typical valve body drilled wall and check ball delete. Separator plate looked unmodified, but I didn't have a stock plate to compare. I set...

I've owned only one 340, a 70 Challenger RT. Regret selling it to this day.

I've been hearing a lot about CARB's suggestion that the state should allow local jurisdictions to create zero-emissions zones. CARB also is reportedly gathering information about classic cars and how their owners use them. Maybe there is nothing to worry about, maybe there is.

Does anyone make a plain steel pan like that for the 727?

Another shout out for the Real Gasket. The final straw was when a Felpro de-laminated and leaked through with ultra black rtv on both sides of it......

Well the transmission is back together and I've replaced the majority of B&M parts with stock stuff: B&M 5.0 lever - replaced with 3.8 B&M single front servo spring - replaced with conventional dual springs B&M clutch springs - replaced with stock height springs (10) B&M accumulator blocker rod...

seals were all good, but will be replaced anyway. Note that the B&M clutch springs were found to be laid over in disassembly. I'm thinking that spring pressure was next to nothing.

There are sleeves available, but I've never heard if they worked well or not.

I did find a 3.8 that I can use.

I'll take the vb apart and see what kind of mods were done. Not sure if the separator plate was modified or the B&M came with it's own plate. I might be better off if I can scrounge up a stock valve body.

Well this is a disappointment. I'd like to have tried this converter for street use but the snout has a lot of wear. Too bad, because the old Fairbanks probably isn't worth getting repaired. I'll replace the pump bushing with a babbitt one:

I better change that lever if it's a 5.0

Can anyone tell what lever ratio I have? The only marking is 1000022.

The rear clutch was much better. Frictions averaged .0595, steels were mint:

Ok, the front frictions measured an average of .040, some cupped and burnt steels: Lets see, 5 frictions at .060 apiece when new, lost .020 each................so .175 - .100 = .075 clearance when originally assembled.

This was from the 80's as well. I haven't got to the valve body yet, but I'm sure it's a dandy too!

About 75% street 25% strip. I stacked up 4 spare good steels, 4 frictions, the stock .060 snap ring and came up with .065 on the front clutch. I think I'll go with that.

I'm new at this transmission rebuilding, but I finally have time to go through some 727's that I've had laying around for years. The history on this one is a B&M Transkit installed by a local "guru" more years ago than I can remember. Fluid was burned when drained. End play before disassembly...

Thanks. I checked out Transtar and they do have a plate made by Sonnax #S22747B. I'll have to see if it will work for me.

I'm going through a stock 727 valve body and found some corrosion. The aluminum cleaned up nice but the separator plate has some pits and etching after rust removal, I'm thinking that it's going to leak over to other passages. The shuttle valve was also stuck, but that cleaned up nice as well...

I could be wrong, but by looking at the picture of your instructions they seem to be the big block spool replacement mounts for a stock big block spool type K-member. These weren't made to work on a small block spool type K-member unless the DC modification was done.

Old school build with the CH4B and those beefy adjustable rocker arms (the newer ones were slimmed down a bit). There's a set of TRW forged pistons in there for sure. :)

Forget the hone, Scotch-Brite worked perfect.

What grit stones should I use to hone/touch up the servo bores?

Thanks! My FSM has a section that says: (2) .....position strut into lower control arm and tighten nut to 110 foot-pounds. (3) Position control arm shaft and strut assembly into the cross member. Install strut front bushing, sleeve, and retainer. Tighten nut finger tight only. I figured that I...

Yup, that's what I'll do. I have to rebuild the trans first.

I've installed all new front suspension components and need to know if the strut rods are supposed to be tightened before or after setting the ride height. I have the pivot shafts and strut rods loose at the moment with about 5 turns of preload on the T-bars. Thanks.