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4mulas- I re-read your post, missed the part about you making that system yourself, as I was pretty much looking at the photos. Thanks for the idea, I may tear into the back and see if there's room for something like that.

I was searching for which cap came what years, but I have no clue if this is even right for '74. When the fuel cell mess was installed, they cut the fill tube off about 3" inside the quarter.

Damn, how did I miss that. Especially as I was the one to cap it off. Even though I put the tank in 6 months ago, that's no excuse. Is that the same vent system they used for the fold-down rear seat cars? I'm kinda surprised the P.O. would've pulled it out, they weren't particular about most of...

I was hoping that was the case. I've read (here mostly) views that it's not enough, and the tank needs more venting for filling, etc.

When I got my '74 Duster, the factory tank was gone, along with the spare tire well. Slab of sheetmetal on the trunk floor and a fuel cell on it... I wasn't a fan. I got lucky, found a very nice trunk floor, tank, and 5/16" pickup/sender from a '73 Valiant and stuck them in. There are no ports...

Hmm, got going on other things and kinda forgot about this post. Talked to Transgo, the restriction in the 1-2 shift control circuit is part of (at least) the TFOD2 design. If you use their provided seperator plate, you don't need to install the restrictor plug in the case at the accumulator...

So I managed to trace out the circuit this morning, and it's a restrictor between the 1-2 shift control valve and the accumulator. First one of these I had came with an O/D HD2 kit, but I've bought a few more since, to replace checkball damaged stock ones. I guess I need to call Transgo and get...

I was comparing some seperator plates today, and got to wondering why the replacement ones from Transgo have one hole (picture) that's much smaller than the stock ones I have on hand. I was hoping somebody could clarify A) which circuit this hole is part of, and B) why they decided to reduce...

Well, that turned into a whole lot of nothing. The mounting brackets wouldn't fit, as that section of framerail is wider than on the Challenger... also looks like the exhaust will be in the way. Back on the shelf it goes, guess I've got an E body sway bar for sale.

Your choice, 45#/25# or 45#/45#... $40 plus shipping, probably about $10 to the lower 48.

These are the brackets I'm using.

No, hadn't considered that. The bar's overall width (at the corners) is exactly at the outside of my springs, so the eyes on the bar would protrude 1/2 to 3/4 inch beyond.

Yep, that's pretty much how I did it.

I'm in the fit & figure stage right now, putting the mounts between the saddles an springs to locate the bar. Then see if I have room around exhaust, tires, etc. Then comes the bending.

It's a leftover from putting Hotchkis bars on my Challenger. I've already put the front bar in the '65, just figured I'd use this one as well, as it's just sitting here. And selling stuff can be more headache than it's worth.

That's why I brought it up. I've read of it being done, but wanted some good input on the idea. Yeah, it's only 1" per side, but I will be changing it's original design.

I might give that a try. My only real concern is keeping the ends level/at the same plane when I bend them in.

All in good time. I only bought the new bushings for it 8 years ago...

Good deal, thanks. One thing that will be a bit funky is the ends will be bent in from 90°, but I'm hoping that won't matter.

I've got a factory E body 3/4" rear swaybar, along with all the mounting hardware, that i want to put in my '65 Belvedere. Spring perches are 2" narrower (44" vs 46"), so I've got to squeeze it a touch. Are they hardened/spring/etc? Or can I just throw it in the press and go for it?

Hey Kim, figured you'd chime in. I'm sure I saw a post of yours that showed 2 (or more?) different versions of 904 arms, but be damned if I can find it again.

Looks close enough to me. Thanks!

Found this in with my stock of 727 shift levers. The arm is longer than any aftermarket cable shifter one I've seen, and I've really no idea what a factory 904 setup looks like. TIA, Karlin.

6-19-67 block, front of #1 bank and rear by bellhousing. No machined pad by the pan rail.

First I used Gorilla glue, some seams held fine, others not at all. I cleaned all the edges with lacquer thinner, then tried a 2-part epoxy I had. Same problem, it simply wouldn't bond. The firewall side of the box was in about 10 pieces when I started, I figured it was easier to just get another.

At first I tried gluing all the pieces back together for the broken box. It fit the car fine, but the glue job didn't hold. The one I got from the '63 is physically identical, housing-wise. It's all assembled now, hopefully I'll get to install it and test how the cables fit up today or tomorrow.

I'm starting to think the broken one is from a '65/ '66(?), as there was a slide-type dash control assembly in the box of parts that came with it. I'll try dry fitting the '63 box to my firewall before I go any further with it.

My '64 Barracuda came without a heater. I bought one (not sure of the year), but it's too busted up to warrant repairing. Grabbed another from a '63 Valiant today, but the cable brackets and one door are in different locations. Can anyone tell me, from the pics, which style is correct for 1964...

Ouch...