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No. The grease needs to be in there evenly on both front and back sides of the balls and each chamber. You would need 4 fittings. And you wouldn't want to drill through where the end caps rode or the balls in the track, would, make a rough spot and tear it up. Also it should not be full...

Before you bolted the case halves together did you insert axles into the sides of the sure grip to line up both of the side gears?

Judging by the item next to it with a missing bolt, swapped engine and paint color, that item is added on to a 1967. A starter relay has bolt on terminals. A horn relay doesn't have that many terminals.

.048 is too tight, throw that wavy ring in the trash, they are the thing to use. Using an old steel is to do, it won't hurt anything.

Are you sure it's not: A loose converter bolt? Cracked flex plate? Loose balancer bolt? Loose lower pulley bolts? How many miles are on it? if it has a bad rod or main bearing why would it need bored out again. Must take apart and know what's wrong first.

Obvious, guy wanted a mopar but couldn't afford one. This is plan B

Since you have a choice then liner first. Upholtery shops do headliner all day with glass in the car. I've done 6 headliners, all with glass in the car, it's not a big deal. I've taken one out of a wrecked car and put it in another car, was easier than doing a new one. Edit, I've done BCE...

What is the idle speed? And the idle vacuum? Idles too smooth and low rpm for a 484 or bigger

They look pretty cool, someone will want them. If you don't like it that's fine, I like stock sized stuff also.

Looks like near the top which is good, at bottom I wouldn't try it. You can get it flat and clean, fill it with sealer when installing front pump. Just enough sealer to fill the gap, not much more to control the ooze. Sealer on pump side also, just a small amount. The right stuff is a good...

It's free to manually downshift at any time you feel it's needed.

$43,832 in USA

People, it's more than freeway RPM, it is torque multiplication, and a 273 doesn't have much to spare. 2.76 gears killed a 383-2bbl for me. Remember your 10 speed bike?

They all go under the starter. If you cut it it might make rattling noise

Question to sealing company in 2 weeks, "I have a spot that your coating wouldn't stick to, it all came off"

It will be fine, they made many with 2.76. You will need to change speedo gear for it to be accurate. You will notice it drives different. If you have any hills you will notice them If you pass on a 2 lane highway it will be more of a dog thatn before.

The difference will be bigger than you think. You will be in each gear longer before shifting, will hurt acceleration and mileage. I run 2.94 in many cars, but the 2.76 in small engine hurts the drivability and fuel mileage. Tell us about you and your car, what's been done to the engine for...

Why not call the company sealing the driveway, they probably have experience with this.

I'm not into them either, but just read the forums and look around at shows, many hundreds are swapping them into classic cars.

Prime it with a drill, don't crank it over for oil.

It is an asking price, it's not sold for that. PLENTY of 340's for sale. So what. As said Gen3 Hemi has taken a big bite out of LA engines demand. What is the first thing Bob Gliden did when he built the Plymouth Arrow. He cut the lifter bores out and straightened them up. And the...

It is a 904 for a SB V8

If you are going to blow it out them start blowing with the soap on it so you can clean up all the dirt that will be blown out from under the trim and edges.

Factory service manual, 1969 coronet/dart section zero, pages 2 and 3 I have a lube book from 1965 from a major oil company. It had lube chars for all cars, pretty cool to look at.

Yes, below mild line. But not real low.

Top line is the VIN second line: Interior trim code Paint code Trams: automatic Axle: standard axle, non sure grip SPD, scheduled production date June 1, 1966

Poly 318 bracket is a one piece unit.

2 on left Power steering brackets SB mopar 1970 and up. The two open holes bolt to the lower timing cover. The welded nut is for the pivot bolt for adjusting the pump. #3 bare metal looks like alternator bracket for non AC. #4 black is bent, unsure of what it is.

What is left to restore? Close up look. What do you want the end product to be?

That's pretty ugly. Yes it's a hard to find unit. What do you want the end product to look like?