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It is common for those to stay/stick on the fast-idle cam, due to either the cam sticking, or the choke is faulty, or the choke is not getting enough heat. Try a penetrating lube on the cam. If that don't do it remove and polish the pivot screw, reinstall it dry. I have, many a time, zip-tied a...

Ok I'm confused; Why would you run that 296* cam at 1500rpm for so many hours? What were you thinking? You wanna bet your engine oil smells like gas? ------------------------------------------------------- Here's what I would do; A) at your cruise-rpm of 1500 rpm; check your ignition timing...

On the street with street gears, yes ; If it spins both tires all the way thru First gear, then it's probably too big. If it don't spin the tires in Second gear, then you won't get to shift-rpm until maybe over 80 mph. With 3.23s say; 65= ~4200 in Second at WOT so then, in that situation, you...

OK Ok , I'll tell; There comes a time in the working of the engine, when not much vacuum exists inside the intake, and more blow-by is being created than the normal PCV route can handle. When this happens, The CC gasses, under increasing pressure, have to go somewhere, and backwards, up and out...

You better get after it cuz oil in the chambers leads to detonation. Are you familiar with how that system is supposed to work?

@Mattax Post 15, is IMO, exactly right, good job.

Look, This is a daymn fine STREET 318. This is NOT a race motor. Op has a 3000 stall, on a high-pressure 318 with Magnum heads, in, I'm assuming, a 67 Barracuda. With this combo, the engine is very lightly/almost extremely lightly loaded, below that stall; and, I took the liberty of...

With a 3000 stall, the PV-calibration won't hardly matter. As to 1.7 rockers; IMO, at this power level, they're not gonna do much for ya. If I had them, sure, I'd be tempted to install them, but I sure wouldn't rush out and buy them. Sounds like a fun combo.

Post #4 for the win! Install a PV plug and go drive it. Watch the gauge, as you do some gentle roll-ons. Correlate the power-sag to the gauge. then Install whatever it points to; as @hunt2elk says probably up around 10.5 or more. If you have been running a 7.5PV or less, you will find that now...

...my hood and sealing the hood to the carb. The Second best change, was to install a thermostatic clutch on the fan, and adjust it to come on at 207*F. The Hi-flow T-stat is stamped 195, but the hottest point on my thermostat housing always ran 205, so I assume the stat is defective, but-um, it...

I run mine at from 205>207 by IR gun, on purpose, with a Carter engine-mounted, HO mechanical pump; and a one piece fuel-line from pump to carb, the filter being at the back. It has no percolation issues. I did have hot-running issues in the beginning, which I traced to too-tight Ring-gaps. The...

...is anybody's guess. But, I can tell you that as soon as I cut that hole in the hood, I was able to upjet from 68/76s to 72/80s, both with the 230* cam. I run the HO mechanical pump right out of the Direct-Connection catalog, and the line is 3/8ths from pump to the tank, no return line and a...

Whatever you do, do not run the engine without some form of CC breathing else the pressure will wind it's own way out. If yur lucky it will just blow the dipstick out. If yur really unlucky it will blow the rear cam-plug out, and then, to fix that, you gotta drop the trans.

Yeah well, that may be true in this instance, But, the vapor canister is about as maintenance free as it gets, it keeps my garage from stinking, keeps my 87E10 from going stale in the tank right away, the vapors may contribute to mpgs, and, I always have at least one or two kicking around anyway.

You could always install a vapor canister and make it a closed system.

...and I painted my alloy heads with a good thick coat; which took care of all that. This allowed me to reset the minimum coolant temp to 205*F, and run a Thermostatically controlled clutch fan. But the underhood was still a blast-furnace, and I felt real bad for my 3/8 fuel-line system. So I...

And why would they be at 020 versus the standard .050? IDK. I almost got caught too.

...it out, it has 118 degrees of power extraction! In a long stroke 360, that alone has a lotta potential. However, in per the camcard, the Ica is 65*, so, to make pressure with that is gonna take a fair bit of Scr. The numbers look screwy, but once it's mapped out, the only things that take a...

Rusty said; "In order for the power valve to introduce fuel to the engine, the throttle blades must be open to pull fuel out of the boosters." AJ says; Oh good then we can just skip looking for a flooding condition, and don't have to go down that rabbit hole..

...the secondaries are closed up tight, and reset the mixture screws to 1 turn out, then; Start the engine and; Back the Ignition timing up to 10*, while keeping the rpm around 750/800.Then make sure the WET fuel level in the carb is correct and is stable, and then look down the bores of the...

...is plumbed to the intake, those have a capacity to go to 22/24 degrees with mods; altho most slanty cans run around 9>11, sometimes down to just 7*. If she were mine, and; If you have cranked up the speed screw in an effort to keep a shaky engine running; 1) Check the firing order first...

try 12 degrees, reset the mixture screws to 3/3.5; decrease the idle speed to 750, then try adding some bypass air. I used to do this by drilling a small hole in the top of the PCV valve, then adjusting the speed screw as may be required for idle speed and quality. When I got it right, I...

...cam; 230/237/110 @.050 tappet, with a lil more lift than the Comp. I can idle my 367 down to 550 in gear (manual trans) and pulling, with just 5*advance. On a good day, I can get her down to 500. The advertised on this cam is 276/286 @ .008 tappet. My normal idle-timing is ~12>14. The point...

Blow-by entering the engine, at WOT, when laden with oil, can produce or contribute to, detonation. Most of my classic cars had that hose on the outside of the filter, and the filter-house had an oil-collection ring there, which had to be cleaned out periodically, on engines with hi-mileage.

You say that like it was a fact. But that breather may be a sealed unit. and if it has a hose nipple on it, that is the norm. and so The fact is that as engines age, they may produce a lotta blow-by, especially at WOT, and just a few seconds could blow that smallish line right off the...

I was pretty sure that you were aware that at WOT, CC pressure will build, which will slam the PCV shut, which will force the CC fumes to flow up into your breather and from there into the Air filter house. Usually those fumes will be oil-laden and make a mess in your housing. But maybe your...

yabut., is that system gonna flow enough backwards at WOT after 13/14 seconds, to not blow the dipstick out.. or worse

those choke-rods can be bent to fit, I do it all the time. And the tension can be adjusted in the same way. Glad you got it figured out tho.

no, that is the way they are made. at least the later ones. something is just sticking In the past, when I couldn't figure out what was sticking, I just Zip-tied a nut to the choke down-rod, which made it heavy enough to drop on it's own. What you can try, which is where I found the stiction...

I did not know that; But looking at this I can imagine a spread-bore of some kind on there, without too much work. The reasons I like a spread-bore for this combo are; it's already a 10.8 engine and the small solid cam is gonna have an early closing intake, which means those two together, are...