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The factory SBP rally's are 14 X 5 1/2". The stock Kelsey Hayes brakes work just fine with those.

If the Duster is a '70-76 model, yes.

Not with drum selection.

I've never had and issue swapping 10 X 2 1/2" drums regardless of year/model and finned/non-finned. They're a very common drum.

A-bodies ended in 1976. F-bodies started then in their place.

yes

If it's truly an Aspen, they were only made from 1976-1980.

That neck bulges forward.

Why does the switch have a wobble to it? If it's just poor quality/design, maybe add a custom angle bracket under the push rod nut that will have a wider contact area for the button on the switch. If it just slips off one side, maybe bend the bracket over a bit to center the button better.

The Mopar part number is 2808267, just like the 10" drum brakes.

The firewall has two sides.....but I assume you mean the interior side. Sure, lube the rubber retainer, start the push rod into the piston, start the master cylinder mounting nuts, tighten them evenly as you draw it up against the engine side of the firewall, and then push the rod into the...

'66 and earlier models use them.

What year is your car? The '66 and older A-bodies have a spring around the push rod, but, I didn't think the later ones did. I always swapped out the push rods and seals out on the bench.....actually in my vice. I give it it's initial bleed there too.

The proper torque spec is more than enough to seat the stud.

Dana67Dart thinks yanking on the stud will damage it. I've pulled those studs into rear axle shafts and front hubs for 55 years now without an issue. When the rear axle is out of the housing, sure, I use a press as it's faster. I've done it both ways on a front. If I'm changing a drum and all 5...

If you properly lube those parts, they "pull" into the hub easily without distorting the stud or lug nut.

Press would be my first choice. Drawing them in with lug nuts and washers would be my second if a press isn't available. I suppose you could rig up something to use a vice, but, I've never tried that.

That link is for a 1/2" stud. Early A-bodies have 7 /16" studs.

Find a rusted out '73-6 A-body V8 parts car and swap everything over. Just a driveshaft shortening is the only extra expense.

Proportioning valve and related fittings/lines?

I believe it's from an F,M,J body.

If you need boosted brakes, I would recommend the '67-72 booster and master cylinder. The original Bendix booster with remote reservoir is a trouble prone setup and some parts are getting very hard to find, not to mention someone that knows how to rebuild one.

A rough idle indicates it might be a vacuum leak in the booster. Pull the vacuum source hose off the intake and plug the intake nipple. The idle should be good now. If so, you have a leak in the booster system somewhere. Probably the booster itself as those were trouble prone on the early A's...

I assume you're planning to rebuild it. I'd start by pulling it apart and hone the cylinder to see if it's rebuildable. If badly pitted and you just have to reuse it for some reason, have it stainless sleeved, rebuild it, and then use DOT 5 fluid from now on. If it's not badly pitted, soak in...

As 67Dart273 mentioned, remove the shoes and hardware, then re-assemble the drum/bearings on the spindle to see how it fits now. That will tell you whether it's brakes or bearings/seals that are the problem.

As long as the horsepower is 350 or under and you're not drag racing, the 8 1/4 should work fine.

7 1 /4 has a nine bolt, irregular shaped cover. An 8 1/4 has a 10 bolt round cover. Get the shock brackets with it when converting from a 7 1/4. The P/S pump setup would depend on which engines are involved for the pump brackets and pulleys. You would need a P/S column center shaft and coupler...

Disc brakes were an option on all '73-6 A-bodies. All V8 models came with them. Any that came with disc brakes would also have a rear axle with the 4 1/2" bolt pattern wheels. They could have either a 7 1/4", or, 8 1/4" rear axle however, so, you'd just have to look under the car to see which...

65dartman pretty much said it in his response. For a factory Mopar setup, the '73-6 A-body disc brakes and an 8 1/4 rear axle assembly are a bolt-on with minor mods. You can also get the disc brakes off an '73-4 E-body too, but, you'd still need to get the '73-4 A-body upper control arms.

That's the part, but, the price....yikes! There's bound to be some good used ones out there. I used to have a big box of them. PM me if you can't find one locally and I'll take a look.