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When I searched for info I found quite a few posts about this problem. Some people have just used JB Weld. Anyway, as I said, I’m taking a hit and letting the car go. Too fed up to carry on with it now.

Excuse my ignorance, I’ve heard of hard block but no idea how it is installed. Just thought it was for racers

Thanks, but it just seems to confirm the scale of my problem

Thanks for all the advice. I’m in the UK and motors are in short supply. I’ve put the car up for sale and I’m cutting my losses.

It’s more common apparently. My friend has a dead 318 with the same problem. Also sold to him as good..

Thanks, just what I feared. Bad design. What’s worse is that someone has rebuilt that motor and sold it to me as good without noticing. Live and learn I guess. Thanks for confirming,

Hi all, I recently installed a rebuilt 360 (not my build) and within half an hour of running time I have a major water leak into the oil, thick mayo.. I immediately thought of worst case scenarios and removed the short 9/16 bolt that hold the power steering bracket to the motor. Coolant came out...

Yes, quite. It’s a ‘67 Coronet and I believe it’s a two speed (off, on, on 2), the earth strap is intact but from what I’ve read around today, running grounds from the motor and the switch may be required.

Ah well. Didn’t work. New project, then. However I did do a voltage test at the firewall connector. The main feed wires (Brown, red) to the wiper motor show battery voltage With switch turned on. I cleaned everything at the connector, reconnected and then checked voltage again at the two power...

I’ll give it a go then

Guys my wipers don’t work. I have the procedure for bench testing the motor. Is there any reason why I can’t do the bench test with the wiper motor still attached? I’d unplug the bulkhead connection for the wipers and test it on the disconnected battery this test; Bench testing procedure...

Can’t argue with that. Here in the UK there is no chance of finding a spare hood if I cut mine for a scoop. On the other hand, we only live once

Thanks, I didn’t see the lower screws which are hidden by the door panel I was removing the panel to see if sufficient metal exists to mount a seat belt plate for a three point seat belt arrangement.

Hi all, looking to remove the rim below the rear side window, removed the 3 screws but not coming out. Is it part of the lower panel or separate? Earlier I removed the door rest, winder etc , but can’t seem to get the upper panel (steel part) out.

Thanks for the info guys, I do have a scoop but as the car is pretty nice I’m loath to go the scoop direction even though I just bought one, ‘just in case’.

Thanks for the quick replies and pics, much appreciated

Ah thanks, good to know. Are you also using the tin pot original air cleaner, the one that came with the Formula S which is what I was hoping to use?

Hi team, been offered an Air Gap for my 360 and wondering if it will fit under a stock ‘66 Barracuda hood. I was hoping to use the 273 Commando air cleaner and keep it stealthish...but thinking I might be pushing my luck. Any one tried this with success?

Sorted! Even managed to save the hoses!

Thanks all, I’m over in the UK so getting parts takes a bit of searching. Appreciate the advice

Thanks, that’s what I needed

Hi all, I’m due to replace the water pump on my ‘66 Barracuda 273. The old fittings for the heater hose and bypass hose aren’t going to come out and I need to know what size NPT to bypass fitting I need. The large threaded hole in the new water pump measures 1” across and the current bypass hose...

FWIW I had exactly the same experience with the same type of MC from Rockauto. The supplied fitting for the bottom plug wasn’t even correct type! I eventually used the fittings from the old MC and it took a number of efforts to get the thing not to leak. Furthermore, the lid leaks no matter...

AJ, thanks for taking the time to post all that detail, I really needed a full explanation and thanks to Murray for his idea too. Now I understand and will purchase both the dual MC and the matching distribution block. Much appreciated, I can assure you

Sorry, posted without completing... I wish to retain the current block as it works and I understand that some of the aftermarket distribution blocks are of questionable quality. Can anyone point me to the correct size plug so that I can block off the rear brake port at the block?

As I understand it, the old distribution block can be used as the rear brakes are supplied entirely from the new master cylinder. This allows the existing distribution block to be used for the front brakes. I just need to know which port supplies each front brake and what size plug is used to...

Hi all, I know this subject comes up, but I have found contradictions at times. I’m in the UK so really need to order the correct parts just once.due to shipping and taxes etc.. Car- 1966 Barracuda Formula S with stock10” drum brakes all round. What to buy? I’m thinking a 1967 master cylinder...

Absolutely agree, on the plus side those same media have helped me enormously with maintaining 50+yr old cars even if my language slips at times

..ah the joys of the English language, as a native speaker (I’m English) we can agree that ‘dizzy’ is indeed an abberation, a colloquialism if you will. However we’ll have to agree to disagree on other aspects of the lexicon, we say ‘boot’, you say ‘trunk’ and what you call a ‘hood’ we refer...