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That makes sense. Thank you. At this point, it's just not worth it to me to have them re-anodized. They've already been stripped completely. I did that because the were pretty rough and needed to be straightened and cleaned up. Now, I'm merely looking for something I can coat the trim with to...

And probably an equally great exec/GM. He assembled some really good teams everywhere he was.

Thanks for the input guys. I'm not worried about achieving a perfect shine. I'm really just wanting to see what options are out there for protecting the polished bare aluminum so I don't have to polish it often. Has anyone tried Sharkhide or similar products? Would a regular automotive-grade...

Are there any decent alternatives to bright dip anodizing aluminum trim? For instance, could the trim be polished (after stripping the original anodizing) then coated with say a clear powdercoat or clear anodizing? Is there another clear coating that could work? I'm straightening and...

Not a Barracuda, but here are the reference photos I took of the doors on my '66 Dart hardtop before painting them along with one from after painting. I'm not sure the before photos reflected original paint, but I have no reason to think otherwise.

Great progress!

Good to see you around, Rob.

Don't get you're panties in such a bunch. I thought you may have known of a new line of QA1 shocks or something. I had their double adjustable on my old Duster. They worked well.

Their non-adjustable shocks are over $600 a set.

Where ya finding those for less than $600 a set?

They did a great job cleaning it up though. Not a fun job at all.

What kind of work did he do? A re-core? What does that run these days anyway. It's been a while.

Gotcha! So the collect clamped on the head then? I would think be unstable. Or did the backstop stay in the collet keeping it firm while being cut? Unless I'm not thinking about it correctly. As a disclaimer - I'm a total lathe newbie and am always interested in learning ways to use a lathe.

That's smart. How did you fixture those in the lathe?

Looking great! You guys are having way too much fun.

Thanks! My trunk looked like crap, so I covered it up. Good enough for a hotrod. Yours is coming along nicely! Your progress is keeping me motivated too. Keep it up! Here are some older shots:

That's basically what I did for my trunk. Turned out well I think and it makes for a cheap and functional trunk mat.

Did it look used? Any witness marks where it screws down or anything? Left over thermal paste or grease?

I like that idea too! I need to go out and look at the mechanism on my ratchet shifter and see if I can make it work with one of the unused microswitch spots. Lots of great ideas here!

Crazy how different they are in reality from advertised. Those are some meats!

What size tire is that again?

I'd buzz some tack welds before I used locktite to make up for that slop. Better yet, get a bushing that fits like it should.

Pipes have chambered mufflers that don't drone. It's their Street Pro line.

Looks like a 72 and back strut rod. 73+ are course thread I believe.

That'd be great. Thank you!

That makes sense. I'd love to see photos if you remember. I fought the issue on my trunk pan and had to do some shrinking to cure it. It was a quite aggravating.

Looks good! What are the anti pop can strips?

Nice! Do you happen to have a photos of how to did your radiator overflow?

Check out the early A-body builds by @Jim Kueneman . He's got meticulous photos of the door internals of the early Dart and Valiant he built. It saved me a ton of time when I reassembled my '66 Dart.

Doesn't using this portion of the tool (circled below) to level it render any wheel rotation irrelevant? I have one like this, well I used to at least (a buddy's had it for a while now). When taking left and right measurements, you level the gauge for both first. Any wheel rotation is negated by...