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We need a boat load of pictures and then a few more. Have you seen under the car?

You'll need to plumb it to the intake side of your supercharger. Use the catch can to keep things cleaner on the intake.

What is the expectation and intended use? I have The Hotchkis and love them, but my car has larger torsion bars, HD rear leafs, front and rear sways and is lowered. I expect it to handle and it does. Like a lot of car parts, these need to match your suspension. I liked Bilstein's too. Know what...

Here you go in PA6 (Nylon) Carbon Fiber. The material and lighting make it look grey but its black. The gritty or rough texture is the material. This was my first one with no post finish work and the first time I ran the PA CF.

You still need a PVC valve. Try to source one from a Supercharged or turbo V8 car (i.e. 2003 Cobra, etc). Every Turbo'd vehicle I've owned had a pcv valve. Catch can is good to prevent ingesting oil.

Stock ECU is case grounded, not sure about the FBO but worth a check to be sure its grounded well and check all your other grounds too.

I think a lot of folks want the old school look with out the price for rare parts that sometimes are pitted, damaged, incomplete, or flat unavailable. There will always be a market for original parts to the "I need original" guy. I'm my case I redesign stock parts and 3d print them because too...

There are a few factors other than compression height to achieve a certain compression ratio then add dynamic compression ratio. If using a stock stroke crank that is sound; Deck height, head gasket thickness, head chamber volume, valve head volume, rod length (if incorrectly sized) Piston dome...

So the leak happened at idle or did it show up after a drive? Your correct that now your boosting the cylinders and there for a small amount gets into the crank case when in boost but there should be no boost at idle. What how is your PCV set up? Could the leak be from the return line to the pan?

There are plenty of Centrifugal kits and turbos for that matter. But, I get folks sometimes want these more for looks.

I have a set on their seatbelts in my 69. They look different where they clasp but otherwise the same. I have buckets and a console. They work well, the things I don't like is they don't retract all the way when not in use and that maybe where I have the buckle set to (I'm about 6'2" so drivers...

My 69 has a 72 340, SpeedMaster heads, Power Steering and Doug's D453 headers plus a Z-bar and a TKO600 and it all fits fine. You will need to check clearance around the Power Steering box and possibly shim the motor mounts for clearance once you verify the ending is in the proper location. Use...

Not a Duster, but my Dart with those wheels. 17x7 front and 17x8 rear, both with 19mm offset, no adapters or spacers. I have far less room than you do.

I think you go 5/16 compression to npt to npt -6an. There might be a compression to an.

Are you BBP? If so the wheel will require more offset. I run a 17x7 with a -19mm (0.75") offset, (4.75" back space). The problem with 14-15" rims is finding something with more offset is nearly impossible to find unless custom.

Nice car BTW. Its easier to pull the dash out to check the wiring behind it. Have you check the harness from the drivers side kick panel all the way to the back tail lights? Like pulled seats, door plates, kick panel and just inspected it?

I have a TII Z bar and Dougs. I had to shim the z-bar over to the bell housing and get a clickable starter to get everything to clear. I also had to install a return spring under the dash with a Diaphragm clutch. Sometimes you gotta' do what you have to do to get things to line up. FYI I had...

Use a 6 Point hex bolt that is 3/8" and I don't mean the thread size. Buy a long 12 point/open end wrench and all will fall into place when you run these difficult ones in first.

Seen a lot of complete 360's for about half that. Not saying they are better or worse, but for the money, its hard to beat.

When I did my install I used Holley's off the shelf harness 558-328 and the only factory wiring used is the IGN1 and ING2 tired as referenced by Andy. Keep in mind this is for the Gen 1 system with Hyperspark ign box and distributor. It's over priced and kind of oddly laid out but I made it work...

Last year I installed the Gen 1 Sniper and am now driving it more and I love it. Easy start, faster warm up, will high idle without fuss, Cruises easy and goes like hell. I did the entire system, Hyperspark distributor, ignition box, fuel pump (you don't need a return with their pump), etc. The...

They fit 73-up. From reading on this forum, guys with 73-up seem to see less issues with fitment. Buy a gear reduction starter from a Dakota, its smaller, lighter and you'll be glad you did.

Yes. My GTS (below) is a stripe delete car.

Can we see pictures of the manifolds? If the previous owner did these mods they might have used 340 Manifolds too.

Rollmaster or Cloys true roller. If you can, degree the cam, not sure where you'd dig up specs if its stock but they are probably published somewhere.

When I did mine twice (one for 4 speed the second for TKO) I learned cut once and use a garment steamer to remove wrinkles, seams and humps that are not needed. It will soften the wax on the back side of the carpet to reshape it.

A lip, typically on the axle shaft or wheel bearing hub that the wheel is centered on to be on the same axis as the wheel bearing. This is where hub centric rings come into play to adapt the lip to the wheel bore. Some wheels are lug centric, some are hub centric.

Just looked at this on my TKO, it has a built in speed sensor on the tail shaft and it seems the TKX has the same. Do you have a Ford or GM based TKX?

Is there a VIN? Could be a factory replacement block or "over the counter" block.

Smaller cam and a Performer or stock intake for a heavy truck.