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'77 F-body OP was thinking the '76 diagrams would get him through. Yes 4 brown, but all different enough. The confusion began with why there was no J3 at the ignition switch. Answer because they power at from the relay.

Around 51 is typical for a smallblock (LA) cruising at high speed. Its in the FSM and its on the 1980s and early DC/MP instructions. I've posted those in the How To section. B/RB typically a little more - again listed on the instructions from ma mopar. The OP has found that his combination is...

Might be seeing an interlock override on the left fender Photo here. If so, scroll down to Townsend's post in the same thread for a way to rewire. EGR and Cat speed switch are shown in this one. Any idea what this is? Engine connector shown here 6. Cylinder duster is now a 340 ignition...

1975 Standard main power and key switch feed circuit is a little different than other years. From the alternator power has two paths into the passenger compartment because the key switch feed (wire J1) has been spliced into R6 on the engine side of the firewall. Otherwise its...

So some of the this may be self-inflicted? The '75 A-body splits the power on the engine compartment side, So its not like earlier models. If you didn't know that then this where you need to begin. Study the power feeds so you know where they go. The power circuit must be kept. Follow the...

Do you have the shop manual and parts books? Pretty sure www.mymopar.com has both for '68. I have paper original and CD for 68 so haven't looked but pretty sure mymopar has them. Yellow insulation was used for dome light return, map light, etc. Orange was typically used for instrument...

I read it the same way. Key in any position otehr than start and J3 is isolated from the other relay terminals. Key in start, power from ignition switch through the safety switch (S2 to S4) causes the contacts to connect the battery feed to the J3 (lower contact). The upper contacts send power...

Are you using a scanner? Sometimes setting for grayscale works better. Alternatively, if you make it a pdf file, althoug it won't post as an image people can open it and read it at full size.

Just noticed you wrote you have an Accel distributor. I have no idea what type of advance mechanism is in it. You'll have to post some pictures, and more than befoer you will have to measure and plot the timing to know what the advance curve looks like.

Under hard acceleration, it could be excess HC (unburned fuel) and/or NOx. An observer may be able to tell you based on color and smell. Look at the spark plug porcelain for small specks that might be aluminum. That would indicate detonation under hevy load even if you didn't hear the rattle...

...By 1800 rpm the timing is essentially the same in both. Your 340 probably has a distributor advance intended for initial timing of TDC or 5* but we don't know (unless you have the original distributor). So you need to measure and plot the timing from as low of rpm as it will run, to at least...

...With vacuum advance connected 57* at 3000 rpm is on the high side but in the ballpark . Factory would be closer to 50* Your '69 4 speed was originally setup to reduce emissions at idle and while coasting. It came with a distributor setup with a long and fast primary advance curve to...

I don't really understand what you mean with J2 and J3 going to a relay. Draw a diagram. Not sure why you need a fuse block for the ignition on wire, or a tach. CD deck I would power from the auxilery buss if there is room in the OEM fusebox. Alternately have it trigger a better connection...

Depends on what is runningoff of that fuse block. The wire is 14 ga SAE, but when running goes though a bunch of connections and the start switch. Not sure but probably not fused - which is both good and bad. Less resistance is good. No protection for non-engine items on the engine circuit...

Diagram here. J3 come sfrom starter relay https://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/classicmopar/threads/ballast-resistor-wiring.11522/post-123771

What I'm saying is that it sounds like the start wire from the igntion switch controls the relay When the relay closes, power goes from the battery feed on the relay to the starter solenoid and to the ignition start wire. Up through '76 for A-bodies, the relay does not have the BAL terminal...

Bishko has been a big retailer of new and used service manuals etc. Try them.

It seems IGN 2 begins at the starter relay. This is similar to how starter solenoids were set up on Jeeps to later 1980. When the relay trips, the ignition feed is connected to the power at the relay. When the key is released from start to run, the regular ignition feed connect to power...

That's possible. Sounds vaguely familiar but I can't claim to know for sure. Operationally the J3 is probably getting power when the relay is triggered by the S2.

Then how would he know if the battery is charging?

One of those resistors is 0.5 ohms. One is 5 Ohms. The Ignition start wire (tradtionally J3 and brown) connects to the 0.5 ohm resistor. The branch going to the coil will no longer be used for the coil -so that's an easy place to connect any low current circuit that must be on with the key in...

With a Hyfire on a '73, it could be wired liked this with the 12 V switched on connected to any location on the J2 or J3 circuit - as long as they are still connected together. The J2 and J3 connect through the 1/2 ohm resistor. The 5 ohm resistor - if still used in '77 for the first gen...

First. You have a '77 Aspen. Many things you may have read about 'all' A-bodies, even if generally true, are different and do not apply to a '76 A body or a '77 F-body. Second. There is nothing on the older starter relays that would be useful for your purposes. The starter relay's stud...

Looking at this photo, even the wiper harness connectors were getting excessively hot. Do you recall what was the ammeter showing? My guess would be it was showing charge and if a voltage check had been made at that time, the alternator output would have shown over 15 Volts. Either the...

Nice follow up on coming around to doing a repair. The question is why the damage in the first place. Maybe just many oxidized and weakened connections, but maybe something else. I've forgotten whether its true for '67 but the convertible motor power lead was often connected to the battery...

That's why it seems to 'want' so much advance. In neutral it will be happy with a a lean burn and additional time to make the most with that lean burn. First gear is generally a fairly light load. Obviously an incline helps increase that load but it is not equivalent of a heat soaked engine...

Great advice. The '74 diagrams requires some assembly. The diagram here is redraw of the factory diagram but showing only the main circuits. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/1974-duster-total-electrical-failure-followed-by-quick-recovery.547042/#post-1974415233 Notice where the...

Well if you're still working on this and want to solve this a. post up b. stop following the youtube video's and MAD @Woodys_Cuda and @TurboGLH were giving you good advice.

67-69 barracuda the main cable should go from the bulkhead through at least two support clips before entering the fusebox.