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Egzactly. There was a thread I responded to with a harness in the photo that had tape around the R6 and H1 wires indicating rework or splicing. I could not recall if it was yours but it was also a '67. Hence "I can't recall for sure"

Diagnoses methodolgy is same as before. I can't recall for sure but thought there was a photo from your car with a hacked up harness at the alternator.

There are minor internal differences over the years. The details I don't recall off the top of my head but you may find thin mica insulator or a three piece item later replaced with a two piece item. Its kindof obvious when you have it apart.

Before opening it up start with the basic checks for the field circuit being grounded or open, and the output terminal (stud) isn't grounded. Then do field current draw test on the bench. Ignore the mess. Grounded field alternator. On your isolated field alternator its almost the same hook...

Yes. Depending on what you have at home, and what isn't working. Only putting out a few volts? I have no idea what the ___ that means. They probably don't either. The the tests are in the shop manual and pretty easy to do. Actually really easy to do. You'll need a multimeter to read ohms...

Not those. But when I need for my '67 I found a place that specialized in that stuff.

1973

Yes. page 5 https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/292/page05.htm MTSC 72-3 (292) page 1

My '75 4 door valiant had standard bias-plys. According to the '75 lit, radials were standard only on the Gran Fury. Next down was bias steel belted, and then 2 ply. https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/dealerships/DealershipDataBook/1975/75-Plymouth-engineering_0016.jpg HD suspension...

Any increase in the compensating ballast's resistance must be after 1976

In my experience the "Competition" pumps had higher cutoff pressures than the 'street pumps'. By that I mean the pressure the pump will not go above even when output flow is blocked. http://www.heritech.org/cuda/fueldelv.html#Pump%20Performance I have had issues with both too much pressure...

Scroll back through all of the pump-pressure-flow posts in the thread I linked above. Its the same type of setup you have. Duane (PRH) started this off a couple pages earlier, I diagramed it and showed how flow changes with pressure at the outlet (including a Walbro pump chart ). Cudafever did...

Pretty much all cars. Worst is winter fuel on a hot day. Look up "winter fuel RVP". Although what we're seeing when liquid fuel forces out is probably not the RVP directly, but regardless it expands. ^^This^^ The vent line goes back into the fuel fill. The flip cap itself should allow some...

Flow test result

You'll know its a problem when you lift off the throttle cruising on the interstate. For racing in particular there are advantages to running lower pressures during flow (your measurement is the no - flow pressure). Lower pressure can mean more flow into the bowl and less aeration. This means...

Good question. If we knew what year, there's probably a bulletin. My initial guess would be lean burn, but you say its the same p/n, which would certainly be changed with a new design.

Isn't that a Nova?

More flexible . Its used for packing dishes when moving but it shows up sometimes in shipping things - I just don't remember what. Before DMT, before Schumacher, some gaskets like that were pretty impossible to find precut and ready to go. You what its similar to? The foam gasket behind the...

:thumbsup:

The styrafoam ones? I've used - wait for it - thin styrafoam sheets from packing.

The van looks great with the two tone and the cragers

Stopped by the garage this morning to do some investigation. Looks to me like the damage is because the rubber connection isn't strong enough. The oil and ATF may not have helped but the interior is dry (not gooey). Gooey and slimy are technical terms - yes? In this floppy disk camara...

Buy em from places that sell for printing. I've bought Gildens pocket tees that way last two times I needed.

H'm. They have polyurethane conformal coatings... I've been looking at a 2 part polyureythane from Mcmaster ($155) or Permatex 82099 spray (mail order from 'zon or zorro, not stocked locally)

Doesn't sound right. Yup. Different Ocean City. It's in the Doctor state.

Just marking their spot!

Skimming back through your posts @canajien this is a modified '71 Duster. Can't help with the mods but can get you on a footing to understand the factory system. Old school underdash gage sets often included an ammeter, but not common now, and you certainly don't need or want two. I find it...

Ideally. Yes!!!! The engine I got the drain plug sealed, but still have some leaking further back when running - possibly the back of the valve covers but probably the rear main seal (yea - practically new engine) grrr. The transmission fluid I can't figure where its mostly coming from. A...

Feel like I'm wasting a ton of time. I'm going to look at the failed mount more closely to see if my theory that oil and ATF is damaging the rubber is likely on right track. Permatex makes a spray sealer (RTV ?) that maybe would be a decent oil resistant coating.

All I wanted was transmission mount that didn't fail in 3 years. Figured polyu was more oil resistant than rubber. Now looking for some sort of oil resistant coating for the rubber mount. Found some expensive products in McMaster. One is a PVC coating and another is a 2 part Poly urethane.