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Just degree the cam off the pushrod.

Summit is amazing at shipping. Three days to the middle of nowhere. Old cluster housing to help with wire lengths and the cluster wiring will be next. The 3 original bake-o-lite fuse holders are just too brittle for me to feel comfortable in selling. I know how to handle it since I restored...

Weeeeeeeeee!

Pictures of gasket damage? I’m thinking something wasn’t surfaced correctly.

Out of balance tires come in at around 55 mph. Wider tires on back vs front? ☆☆☆☆☆ Put your points distributor back in and give it a go again. Process of Elimination, get it back to the state where it was running good. ☆☆☆☆☆

Roller Block ^^^ ☆☆☆☆☆

How does it stand up with oil downs? If there is improvement in clean up turn around as well? Then a true break thru in technology.

Right from felpro corp 1008 felpro gaskets go on dry and do not need retorqued. From what I’ve seen ARP studs is one of the best upgrades one can do. To much timing will kill head gaskets. Low octane will kill gaskets.

Going to Carlisle? I have a really nice clean one Idle solenoid too PM me

Lifters 1, 2, & 3 look rust pitted. How long was the water in the oil? Weeks.....??? ☆☆☆☆☆

Any before/after follow numbers?

Low usage almost new And cosmetically beautiful ! Old enough to be PRE-Chinesuem $200 shipped within USA

You have a roller block, if it were me, i’d put oem roller lifters and cam in it and be done. The oem Mellings lifters are not that expensive and the spider and dog bones are still available in salvage yards from any magnum motor.

I attached some pictures showing more of the brake system. I already started taking some of it apart. The car has drums on all 4 corners so I assume that means that that piece is a distribution block, not proportioning valve. According to the "Mopar Kit with Ford Master Cylinder" picture...

We put in electronic ignition recently. When I say bad vibration I mean it feels like something is gonna blowup from driveshaft back with a loss of power cannot drive thru it.

With the difference between a 6.535" B length rod and the 6.76" RB length rod on a 3.91" stroke you're looking at a 1.67 rod stroke ratio vs 1.73 rod stroke ratio. The first thing in deciding this is your intended use. If it's a track only engine then I would probably go with a 6.76" rod to get...

Figures. Hope you can get some help to put the tranny back in.

Just Dashes. Hands down! If you are buying re-pop, make sure the core is metal, not plastic. The plastic cored pads will warp in no time.

“Max performance” doesn’t really coincide with stock rods, trw pistons, and ported factory heads. Maybe it did at one time, but not anymore. If the you’re intent on using that stuff, just cam accordingly and put it together. And then “iiwii”.

TTT

I would be looking at the lifters under magnification. Specifically looking for any type of chipping or fracturing, especially on or near the outer edge.

If most of us were in the conference room when they were taking about each engine. We would be like “there is some serious low hanging fruit with the B/RB heads. I would like to purpose a new casting” and the bean counters would laugh and say “why? If the customer wants more performance? Tell...

I put my strap over the header than hooked to the torsion bar.. my main worry was if the trans moved on the jack and fell, i just would jack it up a bit then tighten the strap.. did that a few times and no worries at all

Lily was insanely hot..

Sounds like probably clamping issue to me Not sure what book says, but mine I always do 95. Have never went back and retorqued with 1008’s or cometics. 35/65/95

:lol: The universe is speaking to you

Sorry, I do not.

:welcome: from :canada:

:welcome: from :canada: That's one badass ride!

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