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Exactly what seems to be wrong? V too high, too low, ?? what? Yes but be sure you NEED to Most voltage problems are not the regulator. They are voltage drop problems, AKA drop in the ignition circuit feeding the VR as well as the gronding Best thing you could do is scare up a solid...

Posting more codes does not answer my question. I am asking you "what is" a "high circuit code?" All of those you posted?? Could even be because this is a modified installation. AKA why would this swap have an emissions sensor for the possibly nonexistent evap system?

I don't know what you mean by "high circuit code"

Hmmm that is interesting.

For what it is worth, good or bad, found this: https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/2-speed-wiper-motor-question.517130/ https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/2-speed-wiper-motor-resistor.156928/...

1...Are you sure faulty spark timing is not kicking the starter? Disable the ignition and crank it to see 2...If not I would Make up a lead so you can jumper power direct to the start solenoid. This will bypass all harness wiring and quickly get this down to the starter, cables...

Just a "side" comment. I would not get hung up on a with/ without sight glass. I have been stung bad trying to judge a system charge based on sight glass in certain situations, AKA high load and hot OD temps. Since then I have NEVER simply charged a system while depending only...

If they look OK, and with all the troubles lately with cam and lifters, I would just put it together AS IF IT WAS the first time and break it in all over again, just as you were just starting out. Don't forget break in cam lube, Z oil additive, etc.

Is it possible that this is something just dead silly? Like maybe the torque wrench got way off calibration?

I have never known, EVER for Mattox, unlike myself, to make a disparaging comment. Don't take things so personal. Ask yourself, "How old, again, are these cars?" There may be "hacked" wiring in your car that you have not seen or detected yet. Or, it may be a connector problem...

I think Greg is suggesting that straight wire plug wires can interfere with your OWN EFI. You should be able to find a parts store with at least SOME solid core wire. I KNOW I've seen it on ebay. I WOULD NOT under any conditions screw around soldering the connectors. Those...

How 'bout this? Any possibility that you have a block WITH A COUPLE OF OVERSIZE LIFTER BORES?

Even if you do not convert to something like a GM HEI module I made this up for emergencies and have also used it for test firing engines and for troubleshooting. It has been handy. Just a box with an GM HEI module and a coil. Green clip is ground, yellow is to battery, and then...

Sorry I have no idea what you mean by "ground wire." There is no ground wire in a factory or aftermarket Mopar ignition system. The module is grounded at the case and MUST be so Some things...... Hook it all up, clip your meter to the coil + and ground and turn the key to "run."...

All you can do is round up something to use for a test resistor. For a "quick" check, you could even heat a sensor up in water on the stove, then QUICKLY jumper it into the circuit and see if it reads upscale. You could also heat them up and quickly check their resistance compared...

Easy to check. Clip a test lamp or multimeter to coil + and ground, turn the key to "run". Should have power. Twist and hold the key to "start." Should have power. First I was under the impression that Pertronix used a ballast. But regardless here is how this works There is only 1...

The one that is INSIDE the block back by the dist you can see by removing the dist. and looking down in. We had one member that claimed he installed a missing one through the dist. hole. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/340-oil-galley-plugs.377270/

As far as I know the "big mistakes" for oil plugs are the two up front where the lifter galleys terminate, the screw in one INSIDE the block back by the dist, and then the little tiny one up in above the oil pump. I too do not remember the dimension anymore. See if I can find it...

Start by checking the sensor resistance. Here are the standard test resistors for checking gauges: IE the sensor should kinda match these at cold and operating. You can tell if the sender is grounding by checking between the brass shell and the intake. Do NOT overtighten these...

On a side note starting an HP high compression engine with lots of lead is a hell of a good way to break starters

Are you sure it is on, or that something added is causing a backfeed on run/ shutdown? In other words, start with the engine off and do not crank. Turn the key to ACC and see if the ign system is getting power, AKA does the coil + have power? It should not. It's either right in the...

The question is, how do you know it's accurate? This IS A serious question. Did you construct some angles, and what did you use to do that?

The above. I think the big thing is translating the wiring your new harness has AT THE CLUSTER connector to the Ralley dash. The connector(s) may not even be the same. the manuals, generally, do not detail the cluster inner workings. But if you can post clear shots of the clusters...

Also the oil is cold and if you used a pre lube grease on the bearings they will be pretty well "sealed" at that point. And what Rusty was saying with drill motor speed. The drill RPM is equal to the engine running at 2x that RPM.

nope

I don't know how in hell any of you even know how to answer. Is this a SB or B/RB or is it even a Mopar?

I doubt this is much help, maybe encouragement. Just remember, that "back then," at some point, SOMEBODY put a B/RB into one of those and NObody made swap mounts, or a DIY book and Al Gore had yet to "invent the internet." Most guys, even shops, did not have MIG welders, either

I may be kidding but I advise you to do not EVER assume the role of a driving instructor LOLOLOL My high school driver's ed, "after school," 1965--I was a junior. About a 63 Stupidbaker auto, a 58 Chev auto, both of those were former USAF staff cars and all black. We had a...

Actually neither one of you are right or wrong, as, poorly stated The fact is whether or not you need proportioning depends on weight bias, tires, sizes of brakes whether drum or disc, and so on. A vehicle, light in the rear, with large rear tires and lots of traction, might just...

THIS!!! If you don't have the 2 manual volumes, run over to MyMopar and download them. Not all the connectors are there, but most. Take stuff that doesn't work one at a time and repost here, EG brake lights. The brake light switch should ALWAYS be hot and gets power from one of the...