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I don't know anyone who has the main wiring harness connector for the ignition switch. Maybe try some of the wiring harness manufacturers like M&H. Otherwise you may have to get one off a used harness or buy a new harness.

What year and model are you working with?

Other than the oil pressure sender, the rest are very close to being the same.

None that I can see. The oil pressure wire will be a bit long, but, just strap it up a bit.

I did the exact same mod on my '66 Barracuda except that I didn't take the fuel gauge apart (as in pulling the face plate) but instead, I drilled a hole in the gauge housing to get access to sterilizing the voltage limiter. I posted some photos here somewhere a couple of years ago. Test to see...

2nd M&H for the main harnesses. You'd have to check to see if an A/C and/or Convertible top harness is even available. Those will usually survive a meltdown, so, yours might be reusable.

Just keep a set of points and condenser in your glove box to convert back if that happens.

Looks like you already have a distributor. Get a Pertronix kit and convert it would be the easiest and probably cheapest way to go. If you want to have the '72-up factory electronic, you'll need a distributor, ballast resistor, module, wiring, etc. I think you'd be better off with the...

They look good to me, but, you'll only be sure when you use them. Hopefully, you've converted to a solid state IVR setup. If the factory one goes bad, it usually fries the fuel and temp gauge.

I have a new M & H harness with the Mopar electronic ignition conversion if that's something that works for you. I bought it by mistake a while back and would be willing to sell it. PM me if interested.

I think I'd go ahead and get a reman factory harness. Then all you have to disconnect on an engine swap is the coil, temp, a alternator wires. Easy to figure those out.

How much fooling around with the wiring are you planning to do? Seems to me once it's wired, it's done.

If you use the factory color coded wires or their look-alike replacement, it's fairly Murphyproof if you have a factory wiring diagram.

I always thought it was just the '67 tach face that was different from the '68-up version along with the angle of the numbers on the speedo.

Hopefully the gauges aren't fried which is a common result of a bad IVR.

M&H is who I use.

Yes, the knob and shaft are one piece with the headlight switch. The wiper knob comes off it's shaft by loosening an allen head set screw.

The type of nut should be the same style as the one on the wiper switch.

GM had ones like that, but, I don't remember seeing any for Mopars. Easy way to find out....try to install it and see if it can be adjusted correctly.

Best? Replace the board with a new one. 2nd best, replace the board with a good used one. 3rd best, solder across the gap as mentioned.

I may have the switch. PM me if you want me to search for one in my parts.

The antenna doesn't mount in the hood, so, why is that an issue? Am I missing something here? Fiberglass fenders are a different story. The earlier cars required the antenna to be grounded. Not sure on your year and model. Try running a temporary ground wire to the antenna housing to see if that...

A Gen 1 Hemi has the distributor in the rear just like a small block.

IIRC, the turn signal pigtails changed in '72 from the '70-1 round pin type, to the '72 spade connector type.

What else do you need to know?

Yes, same rotation. The advance curve, weights and springs are for the 392 though.

It will bolt on and run, but, the specs may not be correct for your application.

Yup, 1958 392 Hemi

Being rebuilt, it could have a variety of outputs. Looks like the original number have been bead blasted off. It's also missing the adjustment bushing in the housing for the hinge bolt.

I'd 86 that flex fan too, unless you want to start tossing shrapnel through the hood or radiator.