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Something such as this maybe..........

Passon trans book indicates 7/32" hex.

From McMaster-Carr if it helps.........

They are on the MyMopar site as well.

Before I found my tilt/trim unit for my 90 Chrysler, I made a lever to tilt it. So much easier with it. Then. too, you'd be fairly stretched to reach the tilt lock.

:thumbsup:

From way back, if you have access, you could loosen the nut, back up one side with a heavy object, smack the opposite side with a ball peen a few times..........

I believe there are members that have gotten away with 1/2" of clearance. Might want to query that and what (if any) mods were made to keep the flex corralled in a separate threat. Shim the engine back maybe? Stiffer mounts?

Just curious. Maybe an optical conclusion. Fins look a little close in your picture. What's your actual clearance? FWIW.........

How about a vise (not advice) to hold your bench down......................... Flash sale today...

Yeah, daughter and hubby. They came down the next weekend. Took 'em out on Lake Delavan in WI. First time ever new the son in law got to drive a boat. LOL, might have given him the bug!

Trailered mine down to the lake 1st week of May to trial before the "kids" from Toronto visited. Got it all prepped for launch and noticed this.............. oops........and for the first time ever, in all the years I've gone fishing there, Conservation Police were on site, checking a guy...

Maybe try hotter Mapp gas? Burning the rubber out may give some clearance for a saw.

Not sure this is the exact one on my '69 with 26" B-body radiator. I'm sure it's close though.

IMO, probably better to use the carb plate held with 4 5/16" correct length bolt engagement spreading the load over all the intake bolts. I use end of head to opposite end of head as lift points when doing engine/trans assy. Bulkhead connector clearance can be a little tight as well as heater...

I'm thinking it best to make sure the bracket is moved evenly to keep the alternator pulley parallel to the pump and crank pulleys.

Install kit (bearings. shims, seal, pattern grease) Consider the pinion spline count and yoke. If it helps Ratech has a cheap setup tool........... https://ratechmfg.com/pinion%20setting%20tool.htm Gear lube and LS friction modifier. Torque specs and tools to meet them.

.................. https://www.laysons.com/Catalog.cfm?nCatID=2848&nModelID=3&nModelYear=1969

Off my '69 way back if it helps............

Are the blade teeth riding on the guide(s), possibly locking up the blade? Cutting on an angle can also mean one side of the blade may be wearing unevenly. Feel each side of a blade that cut like that.

I think it needs to come apart to replace those studs. I'm sure they will spin if you try to drill them. check with @partsmonsta maybe?

Been a while. Aren't the surrounds (red arrow) studs like the broke one in my picture above and the grille (green arrow) screws the square heads?

You may find certain items here useful................... https://web.archive.org/web/20180529202520/http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/4sptech.shtml

Maybe the cable mounts on the vehicle can give you a clue of the routing. My '69 has both on the driver side forward of the left rear wheel. https://inline.cellacore.net/document/General/964434030137915778_67-74%20Mopar%20A%20with%20Inter.pdf

Possibly there is an undercut like on this 742 pinion that may be hanging it up..........

They look a little spendy these days. I'd keep fishin' a while...