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Plug the exhaust to create back-pressure, hold cloths over the tailpipes, apply pressure, listen for leaks, - not rocket science.

To check for exhaust leaks, stuff the tailpipe with shop-cloths, and have someone wearing gloves hold the cloths in ( as best possible ) while you start and run the engine. Quickly walk one side of vehicle to other, exhaust leaks will be very evident, and those tailpipe cloths will be getting...

Pull the plugs, they should tell by the deposits . One should be different.

Thank-you. Lotsa opinions, lotsa minutiae, I have many "strange" things I do in engine prep. What h/p they add individually, prob unmeasurable, but together, they seem to get the job done. Next time I build a gear-drive, 6000+ rpm engine, I'ma gonna drill a hole,. Thnx again, sincerely, luv...

Always searching for new info, I'm wondering what symptoms of lack of lubrication to the timing set is showing. We've built the BBlks and Hemisback in the day, had a 340 Barracuda running 2/10s off the NHRA record. Lotsa really stout street engines with UBER valve springs. We also build, repair...

That was several decades, and dozens of engines ago. I was just a pup . lol I'll try again tomorrow, just for the hell of it .

My $0.02. I think you will find there is a small pocket behind the top left bolt with hole. The residual oil in the valley will be right up to the hole in the bolt, any additional oil will cause oil to flow out the hole in the 2 top bolts. Those 2 top bolts are what? 3/8 of an inch below those 2...

By rule, had to run stock, just carried spares, and learned to shift. Went to manual shift auto, got tired of changing early syncro-rings. More hardware .

Yes, there were heavier gauge rockers avail, I also have a set. I punched the pushrod thru a few rockers, usually on a missed shift, the piston would spank a valve, witness mark on piston confirmed. Carried spare rockers in glove box beside the spare ballast resistor.

Gave a quick scan, sorry if I missed it. Are you using synthetic oil. If so, before tearing it down, try changing to dino-oil, 10/40 with zinc, for grins and giggles, prove or disprove old argument. Good luck

Rod bearing and main bearing noises distinctly different .

Very well could have been, I used that method before my apprenticeship. We gained mosta our early knowledge from the monthly magazines, and adapted that to whatever make we were working on. Personally, I'd run 20/50 like I do my high mileage Jeeps. 300k, 3 of em, - knock like hell for a coupla...

I would bend up a cotter pin to slip into the oil hole, funny angle thing and just rotate the crank. The cotter pin "flukes" laying across the bearing surface would just push the shell around till it'd pretty much fall out when nearly all the way around. Just lay the new shell on the clean/lubed...

Like Xmas morning, oh boy !

Yep, agree, just not to be overlooked, as I have done, lol Just a coupla quick shots of air.

There is gas boiling, and dripping down the barrels, but if the bleeds are plugged, that can cause "syphoning" which also causes dripping after shutoff. Find and clear air bleeds, reset/check float level, check for sunk/heavy float, might be considered. Good luck

This help ? http://www.mopar1.us/Aengine.html

If it were mine, I'd clean the plugs or new, run it for a few hours, and pull the plugs again looking for plugs that are "different". I would expect that plug to be wet/oily again. Sources of oil, - pcv, intake manifold or gasket, valve guide, valve not opening, ring. good luck jmo

Yep, all depends on climate, temp change ranges, humdittity, etc. I release the rockers/shafts on our cars, non-ohcam. Rotate the ohcam engines regularly.

Other pix weren't helpful, not your fault. Cheers.

An engine sitting for a very long time, if not properly prepared, can literally let the cylinders with open valves " breathe". Suck in cold damp air, expel warm air, day after day can form rust patches in those cyls. Lotsa these engines will seize, others will run with reduced power? from these...

L2 sucking oil, lotsa ash. L4 not so good. Tighten intake bolts, clean plugs, repeat . On-end shot of 2/4 plug tips may be helpful.

https://www.bing.com/search?q=lordco%20alberta&pc=MOZB&form=MOZMBA Ask for above .

^^^^^^^^ what he said. Pull the plugs, keep them in order, give us a pic. Cheers.

I have 3 sleeves, done at different times over the years, ran 12.5 compression for years. I wouldn't have a #s matching car cept for sleeves .

Make sure the idle bleeds are clear .

Some seals force you to do it this way, quite successfully . Clean surfaces, no goop, - none. Dozens done with either style, line bored or not.

The trans mount is captured, so forward engine motion is very limited. What you wanna be concerned with is how far the fan blades flex (pull) forward at higher rpms. Then think about a missed shift, - I lost a bottom tank that way. Clutch fans wont rev over ~4k, (and are "set back" for more...

I believe that correct, there was also the air-cleaner "340" was either red or orange year specific, 4 SPD/Auto (cam). Cheers

Yes, built Nov 68 . Avatar pic is a coupla weeks after purchase, iirc, - no headrests.