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Ok, Well here is the rest of the story. I run the AG on my 367. The first year or four, I ran it under the stock hood. I knew Fresh air was a Big Deal but was unwilling to hole my gorgeous factory hood. But the day came that I just had to know, so I holed it, sealed the 750DP to the...

Try running 295/50-15 BFG Radial T/As. ............ I luv 'em. or Cooper Cobras. Every corner is an opportunity. Always an adventure. Practice, practice.

You asked, "would you (like me, AJ) reuse it" My answer is; "yes I would". the number-one reason being; cuz on a slanty, it's like in your face easy to change later. Number two reason. I ran a 10 year old one in the early70s, and an even older one in the late 70s, and I ran another one from...

When Overfilled, the spinning bits foam up the oil and throw it all over the place. Any chance it's coming out of the breather, which, for some reason, Mopar stuck in the Bellhouse. Just guessing.

Why bother, AFAIK there are only two good reasons for to run a header, namely; Scavenging and Inertial tuning; neither of which are desirable on a stock 318. The stock cam has like 20* of overlap, so scavenging is not gonna occur. Inertial tuning sure but to what effect? You are likely...

sounds like a trick question,

I see I'm late to the party and unwilling to read all three pages. So if someone has already mentioned this, my apologies. Your cam is; 272/272/110/52* overlap. In at split-overlap of 110, the Ica is 66, Compression is 114 and power is also 114. With headers, running at 65=1800 rpm, that's a...

Is that a 72?...... If yes, IIRC those could still be 9/1 engines , As always, for your application, stall and/or gears are the best bang for the bucks, especially with stock-type 2.76 gears which don't even get up to 2800rpm until about 30mph. Your 2bbl will get you there just fine. Altho, a...

here is a pic of your all-drum Safety Switch. In 1970, if a car had factory Kelsey Hays disc brakes up front, it might have had a Metering Block in the front lines. or it might have had a divorced Proportioning valve, downstream, maybe as far as under the front driver's seat. I forget

This does not look like a proportioning valve It looks like a simple Safety switch. You need to add a Proportioning valve to it. Did your dash brake lite come on, the one that indicates to you that the Parking Brake is left on? If no, does it work? If yes, we need to figure out why. Was your...

You'll know when you take your head off, by how far the valves have pounded themselves into the seats. It takes thousands upon thousands of miles to get to be like that. If it has mechanical lifters, you might notice it, by more often lash adjustments. My opinion is that if yur gonna put 12,000...

Well, blow thru the old line, both directions. There might be some rust in there. Brake lines often rust out from the inside, and usually at the lowest point, cuz that's where the water collects. As to sticking If you noticed the six pads where the shoes sit against, after years of service, they...

If you cannot find anything local, I have a project car available, that needs a LOT; quarters, fenders, rockers, valances, driver's floor. But the rails are good, and it is an original 340 S car. Semi-complete. The original powertrain is not currently in it but, I have the original 340 block for...

If you forgot that, then maybe you forgot that it is possible to drive a too-long bolt into the #1 piston cylinderwall, hard enough to crack it? which will then allow coolant into places it's not supposed to go, lol. Those bolts, almost all of them, are location specific, so be careful.

That Distributor appears NOT to have a VA on it, making it NOT street friendly, and especially not hi-way friendly if that matters to you. But it works well enough with a higher stall convertor. Personally, I am a big fan of VA and run 22* in mine.

Inlet air temp, is a really big deal.

If the pushrod is too long, the powerpiston will not return, which will then not allow the compensating port to allow fresh fluid into the system. Thus as pad material gets butned up, the pedal will sink ever lower. until one day, no brakes. A similar situation can arise if the hydraulics on...

Hydrochloric acid will bubble it off in minutes. But you need to dilute it to about 10/12%, and the fumes from the bottle will kill you. Well maybe not killyou, but if you get them in your lungs , you might wish you were dead, lol. If you spill it on your hands wash it off Immediately under...

FYI, My Hughes HE3037AL and their better lifters at the time, was new in 2004. I've been waiting a loooong time for that cam to die, so I have an excuse to take that engine down. I run enough spring pressure to hit 7200 on a regular basis.

I run 2.77s on the hiway, and I love it. But that's in overdrive, Does that count, lol. Looks like Sooke BC is elevation 200ft. Do a compression test. Here's a rough guide, for a regular TF with a 2000 stall. I made it up based on my experience. and it works for me. For First gear take-off; If...

Sheesh,

Well "everyone" is wrong. Consider that the front half of a 4 barrel is in fact a 2 barrel. Furthermore; 4bbls are rated differently than are 2bbls. So half a 650 4bbl is NOT the same as a 325 2bbl.. IIRC my formulas, you have to divide that 325 by 1.67, to get 195, when rated as a 2bbl...

OP, IMO there is no better mod to a city-cruizer, than a 2800/4bbl. In your case, IMO, Rear gears are just to fine-tune the fun factor. Around town, with a 2800, you'll be hard pressed to notice the 10% increase in Torque-multiplication, from gearing. This is because for most of the time...

I'm thinking Give the pedal a hit to turn the light on, then back off the pedal and wait. When you lift, the fluid should return to the master. and the springs inside the C-valve should center the shuttle valve, thus turning the light off. Give it a few seconds. If this happens as above then...

Yeah that is similar. Thanks Enertia. but that is just a safety switch. I think this is the right Combination valve. Here you can see how the fluid is shut off by full-travel of the shuttle.

Link? oops found it!

ouch

Yeah, I've seen that come in thru the doors a time or two. Which is why I included how to spot it in the Diagnoses. Plus bend pad holders, bent sliderpins, worn caliper ways, collapsed hoses acting like check-valves, lotsa seized pistons, rotors with hot-spots that vibrated the heck out of the...

Well then stick a lol in there , so as the dumbazzes like me can get your stupid jokes.

You better hope you don't!, and hope you don't accidentally try, because that little 20 tooth gear will blow up, and possibly take the rest of the trans with it. >But it gets worse; if the trans blows up at a buck whatever, it could lock the trans up solid, and if you don't clutch it fast...