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I needed a new driveshaft when I did this swap on a 67 Barracuda, but my numbers won't help you (because Dart is 3" longer). I was fortunate in that my buddy pulled the correct driveshaft out of a 6ft high pile of driveshafts at a wrecking yard — first try. You probably won't be that lucky.

For the record, my reference tells me that dual point distributors were used in the following A-bodies: 1967 and earlier 273 4bbl 1968 340 1969 340 MANUAL only 1969 383 1969 440 1970 340 MANUAL only (from here down also includes E-body) 1970 440 & Hemi 1971 340 4bbl & 3x2bbl MANUAL only (also...

I had Jeff Schlemmer of Advance Distributor rebuild a distributor for me, and asked him, "Would you run a Pertronix, or points?". He said points, so that's what I'm going with. I admit it's a PITA to set the duals when they are way in the back under the hood where you can barely reach them or...

I recognized it because I have 4 of them. Should be basically the same as a 340, but the mech. advance springs and the shims in the vac advance are probably different.

Per the number, it is actually a 1967 273 Commando distributor.

My guess is it’s probably almost 80% due to the 3.73 rear. I just did a round trip to LA from San Jose in my warmed over 273 Commando with a 3.23. Took it easy on the way down on 101, kept up with traffic on the 5 (meaning 80) on the way back, averaged 12.5mpg. Give me a 3.73 and 6mpg seems...

When Alan sets out to do something, it happens rapidly. I'm all for this project, even though I didn't really have problems with the slant (other than dropping in a rebuilt 68 unit because of massive oil consumption). Since it no longer has the original engine, and I carried out other mods like...

Not all of the holes in the plug are filled with wires. Only the ones that align with pins on the board. It can be confusing because the pinout for the board is a mirror image of the pinout when you are looking at the face of the plug. It may be more useful to think of it looking at the back of...

I really think you will want to remove all the interior trim, or you won't be able to see where it is leaking.

Yes, Argent Silver is what the factory called it. You should be able to buy it from Mopar-specific vendors. Krylon Dull Aluminum is pretty close, for some parts.

Agreed. .890 would be a big block bar. No big blocks in 64-66. Even a 1968 340-S would be a .870. That said, I put .890s on my 67 273 Commando car. I think going one step up is a no-brainer for any street car — they were all kind of soft from the factory. As noted, many people go much bigger...

This style was used on some 2bbl cars, but I don't have a 2bbl base plate for it. Other 2bbl cars had a snorkel. I used to have one of those, but I'm pretty sure I gave it away.

2bbl? 4bbl? Chrome Commando or plain black? I have an unsilenced black one with CAP, same size and depth as a Commando.

I knew I had this photo somewhere.... bottom item (shiny) is a new sender from Jeg's or Summit (I forget) — exactly the same as the PlumKrazy part above (and much cheaper). Top is the factory A-body sender — completely different.

Huh, I just went to the Plum Krazy site, and the unit they are selling with that part number looks exactly like the one everyone else is selling, with the little short arm and the pivot point halfway down the tube. Image here: The factory A-body unit had the pivot point up near the exit pipe...

Sway bars don't affect the ride unless you hit a pothole with one wheel. In other words, they only come into play when one side is loaded different than the other side — that's how they prevent body roll. But if you, say, hit a full lane speed bump straight on, they have no affect on the spring...

1.08? Definitely won't bottom out, might be a little stiff for cruising... I personally like some suspension compliance — I rely on sway bars to control roll.

For comparison... Barracuda fastback with 273, .890 torsion bars, Bilstein shocks,lowered about 5/8" in front. I sawed 1/4" off the LCA stop. Does not generally hit the bump stops. Freeways here have 5" deep potholes, and I also run some sketchy back roads on occasion.

I installed a Borgeson in my 'vert. It was great. Firm and precise, with a quick ratio. Really, it's a better setup for windy roads than my fastback with manual steering, which, while precise, is dog slow.

This is a “correct” 1967 bezel for the non-retractable OEM antenna, combined with a cheap Amazon fully retractable manual antenna. Everything above the chrome base came from an aftermarket kit. I don’t recall which parts I used under the fender. The thick black plastic piece under the nut is...

You can find Mopar chrome bezels on eBay. Barracuda is unique, and 67 is different than 68-69, but you don't care about that (and some B-body ones are almost identical styling). What you need are a nut that threads onto the antenna base that you have (this should be part of the power antenna...

Yes, It looked like someone attempted a custom setup. They painted the 68 upper and lower trim red (instead of argent), and painted the center of the exposed lid black. That wouldn't really have worked with the correct 68 taillights because the red would have aligned with the white lenses, and...

I used a factory chrome fender bezel with an aftermarket power antenna. All antennas have similar hardware, there are just differences in hole diameters and thread pitch on the securing nuts. I had a pile of parts, some factory, some aftermarket, and mixed and matched until I had a combo that...

66fs mistyped his reply... he meant to say, SBP 10in rear brakes are 10 X 1.75". That is, 1-3/4 inch wide, not 2-1/2 inch wide. The width is measured on the shoe, not the full depth of the drum, FYI.

The aftermarket ones are just plain wrong, in that they sell one piece for both top and bottom. Since the bottom is the one that always gets smashed, a lot of people wound up with top pieces on the bottom. But the end profile of the top piece when flipped over doesn't match the profile of the...

Drum brakes don't use proportioning valves. That item is called a safety switch or distribution block.

Why are you saying it was a rear defrost car? Because it has those slots at the base of the window? I am pretty sure they all have slots there. Mine does, and it is not a rear defrost car — I have the window sticker to prove it. I think the only difference with the rear defrost cars was the big...

You could just make a short adapter piece using crimp-on connectors at each end, appropriate to the two items you need to connect. That should work fine for the radio — it's not high amperage and you don't get a lot of corrosion up under the dash.

The big side panel needs to be in place before those trim pieces — see Cuda Ragtop's list.

I can attest, however, that a new 11/16" drill bit cuts through those poly bushings like butter...