Search results for query: *

I see Mopar branded oil filters at Walmart. Are they really OEM? Should I use them?

Try one of these. 5-10% of the cost of a purchased updated radio.https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless-Receiver-Adapter/dp/B072Q157FY/?tag=fabo03-20

I have some light scratches in a tape stripe. They look like somebody used rubbing compound or something. How can I repair this?

Keep in mind that things like bulkhead connectors are for assembly line purposes. You could delete many connectors in the car if you went point to point.

I would imagine that an 8 3/4 A body rear end is worth $500 itself.

The rotary type go for big bucks on eBay!

I salvaged a couple at the local pick & pull. One from a truck and one from new Yorker, both in the 80s. It’s pretty easy if you have a speedo with a push on connector. The turn signal stalk needs to be one from the 60d or 70s, the 80s are different. I can take pictures if you want.

Just as an fyi, I have a 69 barracuda wiring diagram that has the blue and brown wires reversed. The previous owner gave it to me. Interestingly enough, he was burning up coils every few months. It took me awhile to figure out that the wiring diagram was wrong. Mistakes happen on stuff.

If you take the connector off your ECM, does it have 4 pins or 5? If it only has 4 pins, the 5 ohm side is not used and wiring to it is not necessary. The replacement ballast resistor value is fine. Dying when you release the key is likely two main causes: 1. Bad ballast resistor. 2. Bad...

Definitely not true on 1969 A bodies. Two vacuum lines through firewall. One for vacuum from engine, one for heater valve.

Yeah, I was going to do that, but mine is up on a lift and not running at the moment.

Does anyone know which heater valve is the replacement for a 69 a body? Four Seasons makes a 1021 and a 1022. They work opposite of each other, one flows with vacuum on and one flows with vacuum off. I don’t remember which one to use. The one I put on my car years ago isn’t marked.

You can still buy the standard duty clutch like yours. A lot of folks like me upgraded to the heavy duty one for better cooling performance.

The standard duty are flat on the front. The heavy duty ones have the thermal coil and bigger fins. I would go with the heavy duty if you are in a warm climate.

They went thataway…..

I go to a lot of car shows around here. Most are free. I don’t mind paying $20-25 if it is a charity show, but that is about it for me. As others have said, most trophies go to insiders at a lot of them, but I usually don’t enter to be judged if I have a choice. I go for fun, which I’d good...

I put a factory air setup from another car in my non ac 69 Cuda because I didn’t want to spend $2k on aftermarket. The DMT rebuild kits are pretty cheap and work well. It just takes some time and patience to get it all working. I wanted to keep the factory look.

If it is a used or rebuilt box the gears are often worn in the center position because that is where the steering wheel spends most of it time. So if you have it adjusted tight at center, it may bind in other parts of the travel where there is less gear wear.

I have been taking Relaxium. It seems to help some.

I think I misspoke on the inductance. I don’t remember it. The stored energy in the coil is 100 milli joules. Getting my Henry’s and joules mixed up, been a long time…..

I think the frequency is way too low for skin effect and other RF effects. Generally skin effect and other RF phenomena become significant in the megahertz range. However, the change in frequency could certainly affect current. But a factor of 4 isn’t a lot of change in frequency. Many years...

Anyone have an explanation of why the average current goes down at higher RPM? Seems counterintuitive. You would think that with the coil firing more times the average power consumption would go up. Two things I can think of: Is it a measurement issue where the meters are not catching all the...

Discussions like this usually seem to go down a lot of rabbit holes stray away from the original purpose (frequent habit of mine), but I find them very interesting and I usually learn something new every time. I really like the ones when folks do experiments and get real data to talk about...

You are technically correct. However, my point is that DC meters are designed to measure constant voltages and currents. The ignition voltage and current is not constant, so the readings are not accurate in the way the meter was designed to be used. They are averages of the time varying current...

Yep, you are basically correct if you are talking about average current and voltages. It looks like the current goes down at higher rpm. I haven’t ever looked at ignition waveforms on a scope, so I don’t know why this is. Maybe someone who has will explain it. The peak currents are likely still...

Looks like the ballast resistor was very stable over temperature and current. I suspect that the variations were within accuracy of measurement equipment. Nice work!

A digital meter will likely work, particularly at higher rpm’s, where the current variation is faster. Different meters will have different integration times for measuring, so they may not all work the same. If you have more than one, try them all.

Do you have a clamp meter that measures DC? Most only measure AC, and are designed to measure at 60 cycles. The best way to measure DC is with a traditional amp meter. However, you are not really measuring DC in this case. The current is time varying with the coil pulses, so you will actually be...

I tried the one piece gasket with no success and gave up. Seemed like I couldn’t get it to fit everywhere at the same time. Maybe it was just me.

Look what I just found on Facebook!