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They currently have them, but in fiberglass. 1963-66 A-BODY FLOOR TUNNEL FIBERGLASS - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists

Yeah, don't use a drill through carpeting- that can have disaster potential to it! Use a soldering iron to poke the holes through- nice, clean holes and it seals the edges all in one step!

Don't forget that the trans. crossmember needs to be modified for the dual exhaust to fit. From the Tti website: https://www.ttiexhaust.com/Sheets/Crossmember_sheet506.pdf

Yeah, the pipes are made long so they will work with either 107 or 111" wheelbase cars (Valiant/Barracuda vs Dart). Thus the 4" cut is sometimes necessary.

Just so you know, those rears used tapered axle shafts, not flanged.

I believe a bezel is still used on top of the boot, and beneath the console plate. 1963-65 A-BODY SHIFTER BOOT BEZEL ROUND - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists

An El Gremino?

^^Yup. I use a length of mechanic's wire (or coathanger), but the idea is the same.

x2 on the TopCat. Got mine through Dante's.

Yet, you'd think that they could still design something with some class and personality, not the homogenous, all-look-the-same, quasi-aerodynamic lumps that they shove down our throats now. The best looking cars now are just rehashes of fifty year old designs and styling cues- Challengers...

Yep, A and F bodies used the same transmission tailshaft and shifter mounting points. I wasn't sure what mods you may have done to swap it into the Volare. Oh, and you'll need a '66-'67 speedometer cable to hook the later transmission to your '65 speedometer.

A B/E body four speed will have the shifter mount fighting for the same space as the crossmember hoop, or back between the seats in an A body. The F body brakes/knuckles will fit if you use '73+ upper control arms with the large ball joint, or a set of ball joint adapters.

Also- You will need a V8 cable-style throttle linkage, an early A ('66 and earlier) unit will bolt in, but you may be able to make the Volare unit work with a bit of creativity. your slant 6 uses a pivot-rod style throttle, which is totally unworkable for a V8. Depending on your options, make...

Gee, that worked out well. Too bad they didn't hang on to a couple.

I can just picture you sitting at the kitchen table with it, working the linkage back and forth and making "Vroom-vroom" noises... :lol:

Sure looks that way. Get it good and clean and reweld it. And weld the driver's side while you're under there cleaning and grinding, too. "An ounce of prevention..." And one other thought- before you weld, make DARN sure the socket (flats) is indexed correctly, otherwise you may not be able to...

If the new welds just sheared, then you've got one of two things going on: 1.) The metal of the crossmember has rusted thin enough that it is no longer structurally sound; or 2.) The repair area was not properly cleaned/prepped for welding (or just a bad weld). If the metal has rusted, then...

Sounds like the same double standard our church had. When my first wife abandoned the kids and I, the church said that they did not recognize divorces and we could only remain members if I got a church-sanctioned annulment. When I asked what it would take to get an annulment, I was told "About...

Eddies are junk? Get a Carter? Uh... they're the same carb, basically. For a reliable, "running around" car, stick with a carb. I've been down the TBI/EFI road, was really nice- when it worked. Went back to carb, for the exact reasons already mentioned- parts availability. Carbs (and I'm a...

She has been a looker at any age.

Aw, heck- I'm still wearing 'em!

So I see that even back then they had to hold the nozzle cockeyed to keep gas from burping all over the quarter panel...

Honestly, I wouldn't mess with the center holes on the rally rims. I'd turn down the hub register on the Wilwoods to the Mopar size.

Had the same thing happen years ago with a 340/four speed. Started feeling a vibration in the rear, and as I was pulling over the right rear wheel decided it would rather be someplace else. Drilled out the axles and it got 1/2" studs on both sides. Also some extensive rear quarter work...

Had that issue with an Amazon driver. Saw him pull up and wondered what the wife had bought now? Driver hands me the package, says "Here ya go" and turns to walk away... I look at the package and shout to him "This isn't mine. Wrong address." He looks at his handheld and says "GPS says it is"...

I know this would be a pain in the butt for you, being in Australia- but I would seriously consider sending the booster to be rebuilt at one of these two places: https://www.powerbrakebooster.com/ Home - Harmon Classic Brakes (these guys also sell parts/kits in case you'd prefer to do it...

That's the beauty of making your own tab- you can put the marks wherever you like for ease of access. It'll get a little more involved making the tab longer and adding the additional marks, but still not overly difficult- although if you use a timing tape on the balancer, you shouldn't need to...

looks like 06 2 67 to me, so 413's machined date of Aug 3 is perfectly reasonable- and those dates make it a '68 model year block.

Since the crate is still in such good shape, I'm guessing it wasn't shipped via UPS...

Any good hardware store or Tractor Supply should have them. Just measure the hole in your firewall and the diameter of the tubing so you get the right size grommet.