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As mentioned, the extra 3-pin connector is for C-body cornering lights, can be ignored for other platforms without cornering lights. If the 8-pin pigtail wire color coding does not match the original switch, its likely one of the current cheap reproductions. Yellow cancel cam, missing the wheel...

As mentioned, the Miller C-3826 special tool (referenced in most all FSMs from the time) is a dealer used factory tool and is simply a three-way selectable resistor pack, having the resistance values I added to that cropped picture above prior to posting it some time ago on one of the forums. It...

For those who believe the ammeter will eventually spontaneously “burn out” or short to the cluster frame for no reason whatsoever, moving one ammeter lead to the other ammeter stud will still leave you exposed to the mythical “spontaneously combusting ammeter” syndrome. Would need to remove both...

Well it sounds like you never heard of Kirchhoff's current law and the current divider rule. You can’t wire circuit protection devices in parallel without increasing the total circuit protection for any part of both paths. Even with circuit protection on your heavy gauge shunt wire it still...

Couldn’t disagree more. For same reasons you list for other types of vehicles. Any serious monitoring of DC circuits involves ammeters of some type. Nope, never have. A centered needle indicates a normal balanced charging system; a fully charged battery and all loads being handled by the...

What would be the difference? One bypasses the ammeter only, does nothing to address the real weakness in this original charging system, the charge path Packard terminals in the bulkhead connector. The other bypass discussed/promoted here, the direct alternator to battery heavy gauge wire...

Thanks, some valid points here, and one not so much, very dangerous in fact. The factory “fleet bypass”, C body recall bypass, and ammeter construction are all covered in detail in those videos mentioned. Closing in on about 50 years in the trade myself, many at the dealers back in the day. I do...

If running a stock ammeter, never draw power directly form the battery, or anywhere on the battery, side of the ammeter for any add on loads.

As mentioned, size the circuit protection devices to protect the wiring, not the alternator. Nothing wrong with the original 16-gauge fusible link for that application on an all-stock loaded system. Fusible links will absorb the occasional current spike that will trip a fuse or circuit breaker...

Thanks, I’ve been dealing with these types of voltage drop issues dating back many years, to my time at the dealers in the seventies, well before the internet and any of these current automotive forums. Can’t take credit for the “flied relay”, that is a factory idea starting in the mid to late...

Consider adding a field relay, mentioned towards the end of this video.

Sounds like you may be missing the key point to the demo/videos. This is not about charging current from the alternator to the battery while in operation. It’s about total circuit protection from a short or overload condition. It really doesn’t matter what type of circuit protection devices are...

Some more load testing for this "Shunt wire" by-pass. 120+ amps on the stock wiring before any circuit protection opens?

Fuse technology has improved significantly since these cars were designed but they can still fail at a much lower current than they are designed to open or quickly open on current spikes. An open or tripped fuse/circuit breaker used in this application means an engine stall if the car is in...

That may be but that does not mean it was not the best choice for that particular application. I will continue to use fusible links there.

The stock fusible link? What is wrong with fusible links? There is a reason fusible links were used over fuses in this charging/electrical system.

If those instructions tell you to connect the relay secondary power to the battery, disregard that and be sure to connect the relay secondary power feed to the alternator or somewhere on the alternator side of the ammeter.

’70-74 E, ’71-74 B, and early seventies C bodies have a BATT, and ACC, tap right on the front of the fuse box. Most have an extra male spade type piggy backed on the rear of the battery bus feed at the fuse box as well. Other platforms generally will have them too.

True, and running a parallel wire run around the stock fusible link, even with its own fusible link, will remove any possible chance to avoid said wire damage in the event of a short anywhere in the stock unfused wiring.

But? Indeed, as mentioned numerous times in my postings on this subject, the battery is the only power source with enough current potential (couple hundred amps plus) to burn wires, the fusible link protects the stock unfused wiring from the battery in a dead short event. While a short in...

Yep. Not sure where the 7.5 amp number you are using comes from. The single stock 6” 16ga fusible link should open with prolonged exposure to around 30-40 amps or so with a dead short in any of the stock unfused wiring or components. Parallelling the stock fusible 16ga link with another 14-12 ga...

Show/describe it about half way through that video.

The battery charging current is not really the biggest load concern, with a fully charged battery there will be little to no charging current. On a weak battery any charging current is short term, unlike vehicle loads. With the original alternator feed disconnected, yes, the parallel fusible...

Just one little problem with “shunt wire” by-pass that those who promote it don’t seem to understand, it by-passes/alters all designed circuit protection for this electrical system.

Is that a fact? Fibbing? With correctly maintained tight connections, good insulators, operated within its original current design limits, no mis-placed added loading at the battery, ammeters will not spontaneously combust for no reason as some say they will. Curious, with your headlight relay...

An update to an old thread,

Never add loads directly to the battery if still running an ammeter, all loads need to be on the alternator side of the ammeter as are all other factory loads. Using an oil pressure switch will cover pump operation while cranking and kill the pump with an engine stall. Why load placement...

No reason to plug off anything, the ’73 and up three nipple canisters used a dedicated ported (above the throttle blades) purge connection on the OE carbs. Without the OE carb you can tee into the PCV line but will need to place a restriction in the purge line of about .030”. Anything bigger...