1973 Scamp turn signal switch

[RD73Scamp]

I ordered a new turn signal switch for my 1973 Scamp. My original was 8 pin the new one has 8 pin and - separate connector with 3 wire.

Can I use the one I received ? As my understanding the extra connectors are for lights that mine does not have?

I also switched to all LEDs and now no flash… so trying to narrow down my issue.

 

[RD73Scamp]

Hi - any ideas hear? Is my issue that I installed the 11 pin switch and should have kept with the 8 pin?

 

[67Dart273]

About all I can suggest is to examine the diagram and "ohm" them out. There's a 73 manual over at MyMopar.com, and it got there because of some of us here

Make a "truth" table ref to the connector and colors, the basics of what you have, into or out of the TS switch:

Switched brake power into the TS switch
Always hot hazard flasher output going into the switch
Key switched signal flasher output going into the switch

Front left and dash indicator lamp out
Front right and dash indicator lamp out
Rear left signal and brake lamp out
Rear right signal and brake lamp out

You can check pretty much all functions. With the switch centered, the brake light switch should be continuity to both rear lamps

With the switch left, the signal flasher should show continuity to the left front and left rear The brake switch should still show continuity to ONLY the rear lamp

Opposite with the switch right

With the switch centered and the hazard switch engaged, the hazard flasher wire should be continuous to all 4 lamps. Not sure, I thing the brake switch will also be connected to all of them.

 

[toolmanmike]

I ordered a new turn signal switch for my 1973 Scamp. My original was 8 pin the new one has 8 pin and - separate connector with 3 wire.

Can I use the one I received ? As my understanding the extra connectors are for lights that mine does not have?

I also switched to all LEDs and now no flash… so trying to narrow down my issue.

Some B and C bodys use the same switch and the extra 3 wires are for cornering lamps from what I understand. It should work. You don't use the extra wires.

 

[RD73Scamp]

About all I can suggest is to examine the diagram and "ohm" them out. There's a 73 manual over at MyMopar.com, and it got there because of some of us here

Make a "truth" table ref to the connector and colors, the basics of what you have, into or out of the TS switch:

Switched brake power into the TS switch
Always hot hazard flasher output going into the switch
Key switched signal flasher output going into the switch

Front left and dash indicator lamp out
Front right and dash indicator lamp out
Rear left signal and brake lamp out
Rear right signal and brake lamp out

You can check pretty much all functions. With the switch centered, the brake light switch should be continuity to both rear lamps

With the switch left, the signal flasher should show continuity to the left front and left rear The brake switch should still show continuity to ONLY the rear lamp

Opposite with the switch right

With the switch centered and the hazard switch engaged, the hazard flasher wire should be continuous to all 4 lamps. Not sure, I thing the brake switch will also be connected to all of them.

Thanks appreciate the help. I have the large colored wiring diagram as well. But for this seems like I need to go a layer deeper.

Thanks !

 

[RD73Scamp]

Some B and C bodys use the same switch and the extra 3 wires are for cornering lamps from what I understand. It should work. You don't use the extra wires.

Thanks - that is what I was originally thinking as well. That I just would not use them. But interestingly enough the extra 3 wires match the color of the ones that were on the old harness. Don’t makes me wonder… looks like I will have to map it out.

I realize wire colors on replacement parts may not always match OEM.

Thanks!

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

As mentioned, the extra 3-pin connector is for C-body cornering lights, can be ignored for other platforms without cornering lights. If the 8-pin pigtail wire color coding does not match the original switch, its likely one of the current cheap reproductions. Yellow cancel cam, missing the wheel on horn slip ring contact? Be prepared to do the job again in short order, they don’t last long.

 

[toolmanmike]

Be prepared to do the job again in short order, they don’t last long.

If they even work out of the box. Been there with an OER switch.

 

[67Dart273]

Thanks appreciate the help. I have the large colored wiring diagram as well. But for this seems like I need to go a layer deeper.

Thanks !

I should have mentioned. Part of the problem, I've been told, is that these "replacement" switches often don't have the same wire colors as OEM