Search results for query: *

...but depending on placement and airflow probaly OK. The areas where its very close seem limited to heat sources. Brake fluid should be good to 300 *F. On the other hand portions of the fuel begins to vaporize at just over 100 F. By 130 F, a significant proportion will be vaporized -...

I don't see any substantial contradiction between what is posted here and the snip you posted. Don't get hung up with the casting material. While the change in material does effect rates of heat transfer, and the change in dimensions for a given change in temperature, they are also a different...

Whoa. So you're still putting things together. OK. Put whatever intake on it you think will make you happy. Seriously. If it fits, has the ports you want, go for it. Street contender/dominator single plane if you want short, or RPM for taller (although a drop base cleaner may be needed and...

PS. Even when cruising, when there is a slight downhill and we lighten up on the throttle, a high vacuum is created under the mostly closed throttles and guess what happens. There's less air mass coming through and more vacuum at the idle port and transition slot so the 'idle circuit' starts...

Changing the idle mix screws changes the cruise AFR means the speed your are calling cruise is still mostly on the 'idle circuit'. It should really be called low speed or low throttle circuit, and in fact that's the term Chrysler often used. Only reason to avoid the ethanol is if you're not...

I was afraid it might be hose for fuel. I was hoping the fuel filter weas getting fed from the mechanical pump that was hidden in the shadow., Only reason to run an electric fuel pump would be if the cam is lacking the eccentric. But that long hose suggests the steel line has been cut short...

I know a few people who have made those work well. Had a rep for coming from the factory with metal shavings in the passages. This one must be OK since its been running for the new owner.

The alternator, fan, pulleys all look like they are correct for mid 60s. Water pump looks like it must be have its intake on the driver side - that too is correct through '69. It has a mechanical choke and cable. Later Chrysler magnetic pickup distributor and ECU (instead of points). Maybe...

I see someone's hot rod! LOL The fuel hose splitting the feed line to the carb bowls is one way to make it easier to swap jets at the track. So it has a Holley carb on it - probably a 4150/60, and explains why there's no bimetal choke in the intake. The intake someone will recognize. A lot...

He didn't have the depth - that's the problem. If I had known enough to pick up on his misunderstanding... Some of it was the limitation of his knowledge at the time, and some of it was the limitations of the publications he wrote for. I am a lot more cautious now and sift carefully. There's...

Funny thing is that I was just looking through those two books for some info on cold air's effect on power. Turns out its in Urich & Fisher. But while skimming through I noticed I noticed he didn't really understand how the low speed/idle circuit worked. That's the thing. He was a great...

Since its on the stand, there's only so much you can do. But don't worry about the AFR number. Its just a number, even assuming the exhaust is long enough and the idle conditions are good enough the WBO2 is getting interpretted correctly. A CO meter is better at idle, but again its not...

Timing tape? It's spinning at 1700 with no load, a lot of timing and somewhat lean mix. Maybe if you had a load on it it would be slightly trailer hitching or even reving and dying. Run an engine too lean at light to moderate load and you'll know what I'm trying to describe. I agree...

Not really. With a some extra overlap its usually least stable at idle rpm. But 3" Hg not sure I'd worry about it unless something else is going on. Now why the advance isn't coming in before 1700 -rpm that would have me asking questions.

And if it does start, same thing. Check the power going to the coil and going to the ECU. Ammeter will be no help 'cause current will be flowing from the alternator. Or rather, it ought to be! Then when it does you'll have a reference. The problem is either in one of the devices (ECU, Coil...

Not sure why you got pointed to this thread. The OP replaced the ECU and solved his problem. It sounds like you have changed the ECU? Lets think what we need to narrow the problem down. I assume you are checking no spark with a spark tester. On #1 or on the coil wire? if that is too...

Because it suffers from the same deficiency of all organic inhibitors. They take time to buildup and become effective, and do not work well on systems that are 'open' to the atmosphere. Radiators and cores have become expensive.

IF you are using no copper or soldered compomnents (heater and radiator mostly) AND set up an overflow and recovery system that keeps the air out, an OAT or H-OAT could last longer before it needs to be changed out. Otherwise stick with a conventional IAT antifreeze...

I doubt its the dust shield. Possibly the starter begining to go. Possibly a weak battery or poor connection. I'd start with removing and cleaning the battery terminals and checking the battery condition.

Thanks Dave. Excellent point. I did not watch the video through. I would guess outside air getting drawn into the exhaust system. Something not sealed would be a good investigation. Are these later 360 heads with the air ports unter the exhaust ports? I would think you would hear them...

Maybe too late, but as far as the AFR goes, those numbers are ballpark. To find out the best AFR for your combo, yes you'll have to make some tests at the track or the dyno. I realize that's a PIA. Go with a plan that involves one change at time. Be prepared to alter the follow up depending...

Yea Too bad nobody told Chrysler that. :rolleyes:

Another reason to build a 318 is because it fits in the rules. Or fits into the rules and cost-benefit better than other options - like a 305. @CPDave has covered that in his posts about the SVRA legal ZebraDart. That's 360 HP at the wheels and plenty of torque to come off the corners, and most...

The car concept or theme had to be something stupid, crazy, or otherwise humorous. That may have slipped in more recent years.

hassle for some, is for others fun ;) Also helped it meet the participation requirement for Lemons (scroll to bottom for videos) Side note: Carb tuning had guidance from a very knowledgable and helpful Tuner I highly respect.

I thought the tunnel ram on the 318 was far more interesting. Just proves it can be done, and done well.

I agree. A lot of people start there. Not all of us stay there. When I started going to the track, I quickly decided ET, MPH in the traps was how I wsa going to evaluate high performance. Reality over many autocrosses and of course years of street driving, evolved into much more interest in...

The idle port is restricted by the idle mix screw. Those let us do some fine adjustment to the idle mix, but they are only part of the story. The transfer slots also feed fuel at idle. The portion above the throttle blade also bleeds air into the mix, speeding the fuel along. The more the...

...drops off quickly when going to too lean. Then turning back richer is needed to better handle the load when going into gear. Timing. 18* at 850 rpm should be about right for that cam and engine. You can try a a couple degrees less or more but that's not the immediate issue. When you...

In reverse order of importance IMO I don't know about the later heads but with the earlier 273/318/340, no exhaust gasket is needed. Flat to flat. On the exhaust itself or with headers, I prefer thin so the clamping is more even and less likely to distort the flanges, BUT many headers in...