Search results for query: *

Another thing to know is that if you don't torque the loose replacement wheel studs in the wobbly hole, before the spot welds, -- they will crack over time/vibration/heat, - and let the stud spin at the worst time. Ask me how many times I know, - towing was part of my business.

If it works good, leave it. The residual valve in the rear brake circuit should be removed or perforated if still there. ( See pix ) If you like the feel, - fine, - if it feels too hard to push, you could go to a smaller bore M/C, still Mopar. If feel the need for another expensive decal, go...

Careful of the paint. Chase the pressure from m/c back. Somethings blocked ?

Are the front caliper pistons metal or composite ? Had a lotta trouble with composite pistons in some cases, and aluminum caliper frames seizing up after sitting .( off-season ).

Nice car, by the way, 440 ? You've certainly researched, and seem to have covered all the bases right down to braided hoses. Good job. 2 thoughts, no personal knowledge, slight chance, there was a pedal assembly with a different ratio pedal, doubt it. The second is the pad composite, curious how...

Is your pedal rock hard and near the top of travel ?

That's kinda my thought, that the spindles are the same as earlier, the transverse torsion bar k-frame is wider . Musing .

I've brazed up a few shoe pads as described, file it flat. New shoes can "fall" over the edge, causing issues . A small relief hasn't caused a problem, it's the heavily worn "taxi/police" hi milers that have a definite "step or shoulder", that needs attn.

If the fronts just " nick" the fender, perhaps consider just adjusting the fender brace, that small rod. Moving it forward or back may move the fender out a bit, or extend the brace a "tad" . You will likely be the only one to know/notice .

If the first inch or more of pedal travel is wasted moving the rear shoes into contact with the drums, due to poor adjustment, - you're 3/4 of the way thru the pedal stroke before you even feel "pedal", never mind apply . just saying . .

Adjust your rear brakes .

The original post was asking about manual, - there's a world of difference, so I wanted to be clear about which sizes of master cylinders you were comparing, and if in fact you were not using power as asked. You might try a 15/16 from drdiff, see what difference you find in performance feel, -...

Thru years of testing, comparing, and replacing, - unless you have a power booster, that M/C would be terrible compared to 15/16 or smaller, in effort, feel, and modulation for a spirited driver. jmexperience Good luck

Image

If you are concerned about appearance, you could drill, tap, install seat as deep as poss. Then grind hex and rest the seat fitting flush with caliper casting, install bleed screw, - who would know, - without sticking their nose right in there . jmo

That's the idea, drill to, or thru the seat, you're installing new of both in a few mins, just need the pipe thread to seal. No "tricky surgery" required, just a drill and tap. lol Cheers

I've used these on misc applications, either drill existing/broken bleeder down to fluid, "pipe" tap threads into that, or sometimes I'll drill somewhere elsewhere at the top for ease of bleeding. The bleeder screw fits into the brass fitting. They work really well, come in a few sizes to suit...

The usual stock looking, direct bolt-on, small bore Master that I like to use is the Raybestos 36406 15/16 NEW . https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=309117&cc=1088760 Dr Diff offers a new style plastic master even smaller in size, same small bore, with an adaptor plate, requires some...

If there is still air in one of the systems, when you press the pedal, it compresses the air, when you release the brake, the compressed air can shoot a violent return to the master, blowing fluid past the caps/vents. Set the emergency so the shoe springs can't return the shoes. Have a friend...

You realize that any power booster just supplements leg muscles, and doesn't improve brake efficiency? We spent decades tossing the booster, and using a smaller bore Master to improve the "effort" needed. Just saying, - they're only 3000 lb cars.

I mighta missed it 7 1/4 has 9 bolt cover, - many shapes. 8 1/4 has 10 bolt cover. Good luck .

Lol, yeah, like me, - some seem to be having memory issues .

I'm really glad you got the brakes working correctly. When you said the emergency stuff was missin I immediately thought un-sprung weight, cuz I build racecars. We tear out all the struts, levers, cables, and often seriously modify the backing plate to remove every ounce of unnecessary weight...

Yes. If the master cyl has the largest reservoir closest to the firewll, that is the front disc brake reservoir goes to top center fitting on pic I posted. Small reservoir goes to bottom of pic to single fitting, then single line out other side to rear brakes. I say this cuz some masters have...

Sooo funny, I had a discussion here a coupla years ago with someone, - pretty sure Indiana or NE about the legal need for an emergency brake, he said he wasn't gonna install it. Wonder if that is the car ...

The emergency brake struts and cable levers have no effect on the hydraulic system. They are part of the "secondary mechanical brake system" required by most laws.

If all the pistons aren't firmly seated against pads, with the pads in full contact with the discs, there can be voids holding air. Lotsa folks bleed till "blue", lol, cuz it takes a buncha pumping to get all 4/8 pistons in total contact with the pad, and more pumping to then move the pads out...

I totally respect mosta your stuff, You have totally valid points, I'm just old school. Lol "show me" lol

All the m/c diameters worked in our tests. The difference was in the "feel and control" over the application and release, - not how much effort. The travel of the pedal, and the drivers control over the brake modulation. Saying it takes n% more, - more than what, - you have to feel the...