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hi all, It's been a long time since ive been on here and finally cleaning my garage. I discovered I have a few leftovers from my 67 dart GT project when I had picked up a 76 Swinger parts car. I have the following: - unbroken OEM rear glass from the 76 swinger - front and rear bumpers...

asking 5700 or best offer. Just outside Boston mass zip 01867. lots of pics here: http://www.cyclehaul.com/forsale/dartindex.html 2nd kid is coming and i need to sort out the toys and priorities. I love the car but at this time in my life i think i need to cut back some things and i need...

hey all i know its been a while well i acquired a 55 buick w/ a 364 nailhead last fall so i need to free up some space and some cash. not looking to make a ton and truthfully most of this will go to the scrappers if i cant get rid of it. i hate to do that but i am out of space. i am trying to...

well i just dont know what to do. i like the Dart and am proud of my work with it. because i only got into cars about 5 or so years ago and so i never had a single car that i HAD to have. but since then i have been leaning towards a mid 50's-early 60's pickup but i can't have both. i have...

to start the car? i idiotically routed my exhaust too close to the gas stank and burned holes in the tank. i dropped the tank and realized i had a tank from a 76. i got it to fit in there and put the filler neck on, reconnected the sending unit wire. added 1 gallon (it was completely...

what a difference!! with my brother in law's help and a new air compressor and impact wrench, took just over 2 hours to install the complete setup from summit. with shipping etc the total cost was about 250 for the kit. may be a bit subdued sound for some folks but i wanted to get quieter...

well as some of you may recall my 67 dart had a "creaking" sound anytime i hit a bump. well turned out part of the issue was a loose caliper on the drivers wheel. well i was still getting a weird creaking/grinding sound from the drivers side when i hit a bump and it freaked me out. i didnt...

i HOPE and PRAY i dont have a cracked frame!!!!

well i was making up some 1/8 plates to help solidify the torsion bar area and i was sonly planning on tacking them in place. soooooooooooo i didnt unhook the battery. DUMB DUMB DUMB!! once again - DUMB!!!!!!!!!!! ended up getting caught up and welded everything. went to start car and...

hey all, well i've been driving the dart around but the sound is getting worse and i dont want to potentially injure myself, my family or anyone else should something major happen. basically when i hit a bump - big one or small one - at any speed, there is very audible crunching sound coming...

as i got into the whole classic/muscle car game later in life at 35 and had never as much replaced a battery cable, i wanted someone who knows much more than i do to go over the car before summer driving season. over the pasts 6 months i learned a tremendous amount about cars, patience...

offering them here first as it's spring cleaning time and i need space. i have no idea what these parts are worth - if anything - so please make an offer - preferrably a reasonable one lol. worst i can say is no thanks, most likely you can get a part for cheap. if no go this time around, i'll...

hey everyone well it is a beautiful day today and so i pulled the dart from the garage and took her for a 40 minute drive. no issues. got home and went t o start her up and literally - nada. battery has voltage. but turning the key on literally does nothing - no turn over, no chug chug of...

this is what he has for sale: Mopar Small Block 4-Speed Setup 23-spline A833 OD. - 1 aluminum 4-speed bell housing, including clutch fork mount - 1 aluminum 4-speed transmission (4-speed overdrive) - Hurst 4-speed shifter mechanism (with linkage and arms) Will need different for E body...

well i am thinking of selling/trading my plasma cutter. i just dont use it and have managed to do whatever i needed to with a cutoff wheel. i was offered two seperate trades - 1 is a jet 7x12 horizontal/vertical bandsaw (new is 999.00) and the othre is a campbell haussfield 240v air compressor...

well i am still torn - pun intended - on what to do with my 67 gt. i do really like the look of stock interiors but i am worried about the cost of new covers, foam and installation if i cant do it. i am also impatient and want to drive the car in the spring - not waste the few good weather...

hi everyone going thru the garage and trying to get some things gone. not sure what these items are called? can anyone help id these for me? all from a 76 swinger 318. any idea what these may be worth? dont want to scam anyone nor give them away. ps - if anyone needs these let me know...

new, refurb, different, aftermarket? sheesh finally fixing all the holes in the floorboards and about to install the new carpet and want to try to do all this only once. prob is trying to decide which way to go. between the cost of new covers for all 3 seats plus buns plus cost of...

maybe i just dont know enough but this seems crazy to me? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPAR-1970-E-BODY-440-6-HEMI-LEAF-SPRINGS-RESTORED_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2ea97393c7QQitemZ200411419591QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

i know that sound extremely dumb to ask. but here's my scenario, i have a good sized garage that can hold 1 car plus all my tools etc but with the car in it, i can't work on anything but that car. i have a few projects going on and i am thinking of getting one of those "car tent" things to...

i understand that the pre-smog 318s had much more power. is making a smog-era 318 the same as a "non-smogged" version a matter of simple parts exchange/removal/replacement? or are they 2 completely different motors? just curious. thanks for any insight

i'll take a look tonight to see if the manaual outlines all the hose routing for the 76 318. right now i cant rive more than 5 mins without the temp gage sailing up to the high level. first time there was smoke at the upper rad hose where it meets the rad. second time no smoke but temp gaga...

well on my way in a few to drop off the Dart for an alignment spent the better half of 4 months learning a lot about the car and MOPARS in general. i'll post pics in a bit but : started with a 67 dodge dart gt grocery getter /6 ended with: mildly warmed up 318 with (supposedly) 360...

so now that the 318 is installed, i am having a prob blowing a fuse. none of the following is working: rear stop lights rear turn signals dome light dash light console light these are all connected to the same 20 amp fuse. we removed the windshield washer bottle and ground that brown...

i have heard bad power steering noises before but this is nasty. sounds metallic and whining. i realized i may not have completely bled the air from the new gearbox/pump - could this do it? the cars wheels turn pretty smoothly side to side but at about 1/4 - 1/2 turn there is nasty sound...

i was told over and over that a /6 to SB would be simple, and while that was sort of true, the reality is that a lot of things can get confusing between years of cars, trans styles, shifter styles, etc. i dont mind this its just that i dont have the understanding and now my car sits in the...

mainly just need the rod but will buy the whole deal if it is easier thank you - jason

reading my manual it says i have a 904 trans for .6 dart. course who knows if my trans is original or not. the only #s i can find are: 246871-4 i called moparfins and the guy said there may be a ifference in length of shifter rod when going from a console shift for a 904 to a console...

i think my trans issue is that the linkage rod is not actuating the trans gear selector arm enough. it does the first time through the gears but when i go back up to Park and then down again, the linkage rod is not allowing the trans gear arm to return all the way to Park and thus throws...

perhaps my rod is too long - ha i wish. but seriously check out this pic from a V8 console shifter linkage: notice the length of the shifetr rod. the one i have from my slant 6 seems MUCH longer than this. perhaps i just need to cut mine down to allow the rod to push/pull the gears...