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Make sure you're not using the cheap crimp connectors that are hard plastic, those never seem to bite onto the wire correctly.

Thanks moparparts! That should get me started. What size hole for the mounting studs should be used?

Anyone know where to get a template to drill out for 340 scoops for my 72 dart?

A fellow member told me about a guy b3 racing engines, he has you take some measurments and machines custom shaft cradles that are suppose to center the roller and create a better sweep, it's like $180. I might go that route just out of curiosity.

That looks identical to my sweep with indy rhs heads and harland sharp rockers. I asked the same question and only got one response that said it's not good.

Just curious if anyone has used their geometry correcting rocker stands they make for shaft mounted rockers. I'm looking for real world experience with these before I decide to purchase them. Thanks.

When checking the sweep of the rocker tip on the valve stem it's off to the exhaust side when I would like it to be more centered.

They are the shafts that came with the rockers from harland sharp. Looking at the website it says they are heat treated. I'm having a geometry issue with my indy rhs heads, I guess it's pretty common for these heads.

Cheapest I've seen these rockers new is $630 plus tax and an additional $90 for the billet hold downs.

Willing to trade for hughes 1.6 rockers and cash.

Shaft mounted

Is this to far off? This is showing with roller sweep to the exhaust side. Indy rhs heads with harland sharp rockers. I've read about geometry problems with these heads and I have a feeling this is way off but it's my first time checking for this so just wanted to get opinions.

Harland sharp s70026k shaft mounted 1.6 rockers for sale. These are brand new and in perfect condition, only used for mock-up. Includes 16 adjuster and nuts and billet steel hold downs and hardware. Asking $600 plus shipping.

I definitely like the looks of a dart much better with a lower stance, maybe not with as much passion as you lol! I would like to get the lip of the quarter panel at least even with the top of the wheel.

I'm running a 9 inch also mini tubbed with espo -1 springs. I have the inner tub cut out, just Waiting to get car at ride height and then I will decide if I'm going to just widen the stock tubs or go aftermarket.

Really like the stance on your car turbofreek. What did you do to get the rear to sit that low?

That's interesting ir3333, I guess that's the good thing about hydraulic lifters that's it's not an exact science and a bit of room for error.

Haha! No worries Cotote Jack. Thanks for all the help, that's why I love this site, having awesome mentors at the click of a button. Even though I'm a mechanic by trade I feel like I'm going through my mopar apprenticeship. Thanks again.

Thanks crackedback! I think I'll try the 1/4 turn when it comes time to adjust. So I'll be ordering 10 thou Longer push rods from 0 lash. How many threads do you like to have coming out the bottom of the rocker?

Yeah, I just converted one to solid to check for pushrod length and it will then be converted back to hydraulic.

Used the search feature and finding different answers. I'm running a compcams hydraulic flat tapper lifter xe275hl cam. I converted my lifter to a solid by taking apart and shimming the inside. This is going in a stock stroke 360 for street use and was wondering after I set my adjustable pushrod...

Roccodart440 thanks for the replys, I did use the existing hole in the frame rail but made a new one inline with the stock location but in the frame rail to keep the shackle angle from becoming to excessive, I'm using beefy aftermarket shackles so we did have to modify the area where the stock...

I know I'll probably hear it for this but I'm actually going for a pro street look but setting the car up for the street more for handling. Leafs moved in fox shocks with 7/8 sway bar out back. I love the pro touring cars and have no problem with the looks of them but I really like the looks of...

The housing is still located in its normal position on the springs but the front and rear mounting points are moved rearward so it won't change the front segment length.

Won't say it's a popular mod but people have done it to fit big tires.

Sorry, it's a 72 dart. I'm going to stay with leaf springs and shocks. Is mounting the shock in front of the axle a bad thing if I have to go the way?

For the guys that have done this mod, what did you do about shock mounting. I know I can mount them in front of the rear end but I'm not sure if that would effect anything as far as handling goes. Just been racking my brain about this and not sure what the best route is.

Would anyone happen to know or possibly be able to check on there car what the factory angle is? It would be a huge help, thanks.

Big tires, it's more work than I originally wanted to do but the set up was free from a buddy, ford 9 inch cut to lenght with cop wheels and MT 29x12.5. I also liked the looks of the wheel more centered and figured might as well do it since we're moving the leaf springs anyways and the rms boxes...

Using the upper factory mount I wouldn't even think would be an option considering the rear end Is moved back but this is my first time doing this so I'm not 100% about anything lol! I guess I'm basically going to be moving the upper mount back 1.5 inches to keep the angle front to back as close...