B3 racing engines
- Thread starter trbodrt
- Start date
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By all means, call me and I will explain everything to your satisfaction. The geometry kits are guaranteed or you can return it for a full refund. There are plenty of people with real world experience, but they aren't talking for some reason. They haven't returned their kits either, so I have to assume the are happy with them.
Also, do some forum shopping if you are looking for feedback. I know there is some on Moparts.
You'll be glad you did.
Cheers,
Mike Beachel
moper
Well-Known Member
Mike - I've used support blocks before to adjust the shaft centerline and correct geometry on specific engines. This is the first time I'm seeing/hearing about your stuff. I went to the website and didn't see much besides general theory. Do you have a catalog or pricing sheet you could add?
I set up the website to be more informative than sales related, although that is going to change here shortly. I make these kits customized to each individual engine, so a simple online order is not possible to make it right. I can tell you this, the kits are $180 and include offset billet shaft spacers, offset billet hold downs, hardware, instructions, and in the US, free shipping. Figure that with a 100% satisfaction guarantee, and it's hard to go wrong.
I submitted my next tech article to my web designer, so keep an eye out for that to be online in the next few business days. There is a lot of misconceptions about valvetrain geometry in the Mopar world. Basically, you can forget most of what you've heard for the past fifty years or so.
Mike Beachel
B3 Racing Engines
clifftt
Well-Known Member
Subscribed!
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Not knowing better, I'm assuming the pushrods need to be swapped too? Will they need to be measured and made custom to fit whatever the combo is? Or is there some fixed number 'longer than current' (example: add .180" to your current length), or do they simply get re-used? All the logic and engineering makes sense, and it seems a prudent upgrade for anyone with roller rockers or non-stock cams.
Yes, you will need longer pushrods, but a well built motor will almost always need a custom pushrod length anyway. It needs to be measured after the correction is made, and I always recommend running the longest pushrod possible.
Mr Beachel,
IMHO, You need to post more often...
Waaaaaay Baaaacck in My build days, there was this 'Short Fuse' 340 that would wipe
valve guides after 8 runs...
We finally figured out... heavier/ longer pushrods & raising the rocker shaft (1/8 th inch)
Transferred rotational force in a more lineal line, ... weight is (sometimes) a good thing...
Sorry for the Rant Sir!!!
That's what I'm talking about!:cheers:
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
mopar shaft rockers are in the ballpark geometry wise most of the time with made in usa rockers.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^THIS is why so many guys have rocker/spring issues. IF you are using stock rockers and stock lift your geometry will be ok. But change ONE point in the equation and you MUST change the position of the shaft. Longer valves, more lift, different rocker ratios,, rocker arms with other than stock lengths or all of the above and the geometry changes.
I use Mikes stuff and it WORKS. It is the ONLY way I have used that works, other than milling stands down and using blocks like W-2's, which is WAY too much work for ANY production head.
Send Mike the measurements he asks for and use his stuff. You won't regret it.
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
change 1 thing + u MUST change the position of the shaft-not.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I humbly Disagree,
---contextually---
Let Me reference main bearings, go buy 4 sets of bearings , I bet You find
at least .002-.004 variance in production tolerances.
We would buy 10 sets of bearings, Yes 10 (ten) & 'match' all to the build design...
Rocker arms ??? all bets were off, Rocker Shafts, never seen more than .005
variance front to rear measured at 4 points along the vertical & horizontal centerline ...
Edit, ^^^ 48 small block builds... We had a milk crate full of 273 adjustable rockers,
took about 2 hrs per build to match the Rocker bore to the standard 7/8---.875 ---shaft.
Can You say side loading??
I now relinquish the floor Mr Beachel,
dano
Evil Handy Man
I've recently used Mike at B3 and it was a great experience. I have yet to install my kit but Mike was a big help to getting what he needed to make it. I hope to install it this weekend but I encourage everyone who thinks they may have an issue to at least discuss your setup with him.
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
my 340 is running 11 seconds and street for 20 years with Manley 11/32 valves and .550" and lightly cut heads and block and old harland sharp rockers on stock pedestals, and she go to 7100 all day with no problems, I guess I am lucky my geometry is good!
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
So you don't think it can be better?
Oh wait, she goes 7100 all day long.
You are good to go.
xLURKxDOGx
"An angel fat, at satan's feast"
:glasses7: This is looking to be one comment away from another "hellcat" post. Trolls be trolling......... :glasses7:
I'll buy that, as soon as you can explain the difference between a made in USA rocker and an import rocker as it relates to geometry.
I'll give ya the "lucky" part. Sorry, gonna call out the good geometry though.
I hope not! I want it to be informative from a math (geometry is math, right?) perspective. It's not about opinion, because the mathematical principles are set in stone and proven for thousands of years. Of course there is always someone who is willing to argue that 2+2=5, just for the sake of arguing. That doesn't make it right, and those who are willing to think for themselves know that.
Maybe in the next month or so. I have six motors that have to be done before the weather gets too cold. Hopefully the elves put them together while I'm asleep, but I have my doubts.
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