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Need a flexplate not a converter

I changed directions dramatically...went with a 518 and JW BELL, Hughes balanced converter. The input shaft on the 518 is 24 spline, and so is the Hughes converter. Need to order a flexplate (I think) kinda confused now. The 440 is a 1966 forged crank, thin harmonic balancer...so assuming this...

Pulled the VB apart, and no apparent damage, cleaned it up...all seems well. Was pretty excited to put the Trans go kit to the test...would be my first time using one. When I was younger, TCi and B&M still made decent transmissions. I hear that's not really the case these days. Any advice on a...

That's kinda where I was going too...just don't know how much material was stripped from clutches and maybe even made its way in to shaft bearings, or under bands...if that's even possible. I ordered a JW Ultra bell, and now heading in the direction of 518... I now have 3 RB 727'S, and will be...

Started out with 2 in the converter, 2 in the pan, then instantly added a good 8 or more after start up. After pulling the trans back out, and putting all that fluid in a 5 gallon bucket, it filled halfway around 2.5 gallons...theres still some in the converter. Valve body yielded about a pint...

Ya, im full of regret right now lol...I usually just use a c clamp. But im also usually on my back, on the concrete.

Well, I already did all that...also, installed a Transgo TF1..I had fluid flow, as the dipstick indicated, and drank 9 full quarts. I know the pump can drag enough to provide lubrication, but not enough to engage clutches. So it initially got lubrication. Just curious as to how much of that...

Ok so I know better...done this a dozen times, and always been 12 for 12. But I did it this time.. didn't seat the torque converter properly, and shaved the pump gear tangs off. I'm getting older now, and sliding under a car with a 727 on my chest didn't seem wise, so I did it on my 2 post lift...

Getting the 440 buttoned up. I'll be dropping this one in my '88 1/2 ton.

Yep...that makes sense too. The piston at full TDC relative to cylinder wall wouldn't have any wear at that point.

I'm wondering if that's a safeguard for assuming loss of compression concerning an airgap when an engine cylinder wall is worn down by .010 or so, and just reringing with oversized rings?? Idk

Idk man that 12.3:4 seems a little high for our 91 pump gas

Thank you!! I'm always looking for trade work, in case anyone is interested. I'm in West Nebraska, close to Colorado and Wyoming, also South Dakota. I've offered up my work, but only had few takers. Right now I'm looking for trade work, needing a few vehicles wired with universal harnesses, and...

You guys are awesome...I appreciate you all. I'm going to go forward with what you all have come up with. I'm obviously inputting something wrong...At those numbers I'm completely satisfied. Thinking about dropping this drive train in a custom hot rod...and just received my Keith Long...

I do auto body and paint..just finished this 1968 Firebird for a friend. I couldn't help but to put a very familiar resemblance on it.

Ya, im at that point where I'm kicking myself for A. Not zero decking B. Not upgrading pistons C. Not milling heads. I still have the heads off, and ready for a light port...just might take them back and have them take off .030...assuming the CR Calc is more correct then Chrysler was.

So this is the problem here, especially with the Summit Calc, it gives me the lowest CR equation out of them all. Gives me an 8.3:1, and when using original cast flats, same compressed head gasket, and losing just a hair of material by resurfacing decks and heads, the CR numbers should be at...

When I use these compression calculators, I get a different number every time. I plug in the same numbers, and each time, each different calculator gives me a different number. This is why I asked for some help, to maybe get second opinions.

I dont have anything to put either of these engines in lol! I'm just building em..ive got my eye on a couple of Dusters and a B body tho. I guess I'm just bored. Figured I'd approach this differently this time around. Before I would have a car and work on whatever it came with, now I'm building...

Well I certainly appreciate you doing the homework, thank you! The pistons are stock cast flat tops, no dish, no dome. Thanks again for doing that..

Thank you man!!

I've been there and tried that page. There's information that I don't know, like "top ring down" and since the rotating assembly is in already, I can't just measure it. But thank you anyway.

Hello all, Due to health reasons I've been unable to post or chime in since 2009. I've sold off many of my Mopar to pay for medical and related expenses...it saddened me quite a bit. But im back from the near death grips.. I'm building a date code 9/11/65 440 with 516 heads. Just got the short...

I have this car for sale on Ebay, its a complete car minimal rust, solid floor pans with a little rust. 318 with TTI headers, brand new TCI 904 with Cheetah Manual valve body, 3000 stall JW converter. 8 3/4 rear with 3.23's. Car is in Arizona, I have listed as pick up only, but if you want to...