I killed my first trans pump

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moparshwick94

Mopar on the brain....always
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Ok so I know better...done this a dozen times, and always been 12 for 12. But I did it this time.. didn't seat the torque converter properly, and shaved the pump gear tangs off. I'm getting older now, and sliding under a car with a 727 on my chest didn't seem wise, so I did it on my 2 post lift with a trans lift. While trying to mate the trans to motor, it rocked, torque converter shifted, and I thought I pushed it right back in...but nope...didnt..took that sucker out on first fire..
So questions for you trans guys??
I ran it and broke the cam in, then realized I had no gears, shut it down, dropped the pan, found a metal shavings, and lots of pretty red metallic paint...what should I do to save this trans? Can I flush it?
I already got the trans back on the ground, ready for a new pump.. and which I have new pump and converter. Thanks in advance...

Me-12
Karma-1
New standings 12-13
Lucky 13
 
A simple bent piece bolted to the lower bell bolt holes would stop that really quick..................
 
Since you're already taking the pump out; what's stopping you from checking the front drums, thrust washers, bushings...and taking out some of the end play to stabilize that front drum...? If it wasn't pumping then you fried plenty in there, but sometimes the center gear will drag just enough to lube the surfaces.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
Since you're already taking the pump out; what's stopping you from checking the front drums, thrust washers, bushings...and taking out some of the end play to stabilize that front drum...? If it wasn't pumping then you fried plenty in there, but sometimes the center gear will drag just enough to lube the surfaces.
Click to expand...
Well, I already did all that...also, installed a Transgo TF1..I had fluid flow, as the dipstick indicated, and drank 9 full quarts. I know the pump can drag enough to provide lubrication, but not enough to engage clutches. So it initially got lubrication. Just curious as to how much of that metal, can damage things like clutches, sprags, bearings...although it wasn't driven at all?
 
67Dart273 said:
A simple bent piece bolted to the lower bell bolt holes would stop that really quick..................
Click to expand...
Ya, im full of regret right now lol...I usually just use a c clamp. But im also usually on my back, on the concrete.
 
It took out the trans pump. The engine thrust bearing was also subject to that same force. Do a crank end-play inspection.
 
The filter catches most of the metal. Sounds like just the pump and converter might only be damaged/contaminated, but I'd take apart the vb just to be sure since the converter and pump metal might have gotten into it. Since the tangs broke on boltup, the metal went into the converter first; then the rest of the trans; so I bet you won't find it in the vb.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
The filter catches most of the metal. Sounds like just the pump and converter might only be damaged/contaminated, but I'd take apart the vb just to be sure since the converter and pump metal might have gotten into it. Since the tangs broke on boltup, the metal went into the converter first; then the rest of the trans; so I bet you won't find it in the vb.
Click to expand...


maybe he only had 8qts in it .
 
jimjimjimmy said:
maybe he only had 8qts in it .
Click to expand...
Started out with 2 in the converter, 2 in the pan, then instantly added a good 8 or more after start up. After pulling the trans back out, and putting all that fluid in a 5 gallon bucket, it filled halfway around 2.5 gallons...theres still some in the converter.
Valve body yielded about a pint after opening it up...its all contaminated lol..killed it man..
So where I'm at right now. 1 brand new rebuilt Keith Long trans, 1 brand new Torque converter going in instead. Ill just scrap the idea of saving this one. Thanks for everyones input...much appreciated.
 
Since the front end has to come out.... and you only need one or two specialty tools to strip that sucker apart, in a couple more minutes,
all that you want to know will be revealed.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Since the front end has to come out.... and you only need one or two specialty tools to strip that sucker apart, in a couple more minutes,
all that you want to know will be revealed.
Click to expand...
That's kinda where I was going too...just don't know how much material was stripped from clutches and maybe even made its way in to shaft bearings, or under bands...if that's even possible.
I ordered a JW Ultra bell, and now heading in the direction of 518...
I now have 3 RB 727'S, and will be picking up a 518 pretty soon.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
Does it need more than a pump, converter and vb?
Click to expand...
Pulled the VB apart, and no apparent damage, cleaned it up...all seems well.
Was pretty excited to put the Trans go kit to the test...would be my first time using one.
When I was younger, TCi and B&M still made decent transmissions. I hear that's not really the case these days.
Any advice on a converter??
I'll have to go new anyhow, old TC is 19 spline.
 
1
And you're changing the input spline as well; correct? I like the hi-stall from a 73 Dodge 3/4 T with 360 and 4:10 rear.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
1
And you're changing the input spline as well; correct? I like the hi-stall from a 73 Dodge 3/4 T with 360 and 4:10 rear.
Click to expand...
I changed directions dramatically...went with a 518 and JW BELL, Hughes balanced converter. The input shaft on the 518 is 24 spline, and so is the Hughes converter.
Need to order a flexplate (I think) kinda confused now. The 440 is a 1966 forged crank, thin harmonic balancer...so assuming this is an internally balanced engine, and now a balanced converter...wondering which flex plate I need? Any help much appreciated...
 
If the engine, and converter are internally balanced, you should just need the stock internal balance flexplate.
 
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