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Darn LOL, even if I did want to go roller, I don't think the modifications are too drastic on the non-roller blocks.

I haven't opened it up yet so I'm not sure, but I doubt it. When did the 360 first go to a roller setup? I thought it wasn't until 1990 and the magnum block

Thanks for the replies everyone. I picked it up and it is sitting on the engine stand in the garage. Looks like it is a 87 block, looks very clean and has never been bored over etc. So I think It will make a nice candidate. When I get close to getting started on the build I will start a new...

Yes I would have the block Sonic tested and Magnafluxed to make sure it is good to use. Staying with the LA block would allow me to use the same intake and other parts from my current engine (would save some money) vs going with a magnum. Also are things like aluminum heads more or less...

Hi, I can scoop up a 1985 360 engine with 50,000KM for a few hundred dollars. In the future I was planning to do a 408 stroker build. Any drawbacks to using a 1985 LA block? Originally I was planning to go the Magnum route since it already is setup for a roller, but maybe staying with a LA...

ha ha, that is perfect to install them when you are lowering the engine in place. That should make it a breeze.

Oh and I did end up bending new transmission cooler lines. The ones that were on there, interfered with the headers so I bought some new line on a roll and bent new ones myself. Was very easy and cheap. Biggest thing about installing these headers is that you need to get the car a long ways off...

It seems from what I gathered that the stock power steering box would be okay. It'll be tight but from what other people said it should fit. You'll have the same issue with the steering column ('67 specific issue) getting very close to the #7 header tube, so you might have to clearance that. One...

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. They are in and so far so good. Unfortunately I had to grind down a bit of the Borgeson Powersteering box and dent the header tube to create enough clearance. (fortunately you can't really see it). I also had to dent the #7 tube to clear the steering...

Hi, I used the Summit high torque mini starter on my 360. It has doug's headers, which were a bit of a pain to install (interfered with borgeson power steering box, steering column and torsion bar) but the summit mini starter was never an issue. It fits perfect without interfering with anything...

I haven't measure the engine placement, but since this is a spool mount k-member there is no adjustment like there is with the biscuit style engine mounts. I am going to dent the header where the borgeson pump hits it (not Doug's fault since the borgeson pump is wider than the stock pump in that...

Thanks 72bluNblu, good to know about the column being longer on the 67's. Can I just take the column out and cut a few inches off that tube. It looks like there is just a bearing sitting in the bottom correct? I guess I just loosen the collar nut (that sits on the shaft just under the column)...

I don't think I can move the engine over since I have spool mounts (73+ k-member). I haven't even started on the passenger side yet. I wanted to do the difficult side first LOL.

I finally got around to installing my D453 doug's headers in my 67 Barracuda but i'm running into some problems. The headers are hitting the steering box (borgeson quick ratio), one tube touches the torsion bar and the rear header tube is touching the steering column. (I'll attach images further...

Thanks I'll have a really good look around that area. Reason why I hadn't set toe yet is that I haven't gotten around to it.. LOL. I have just finished putting the hotchkiss leaf springs in and the new rear shocks. I've also installed the new set of tires and rims and now I need to get a nice...

I set it up to have as much positive caster as possible on both sides (matching the side that had the least max caster) and then re-adjusted to get the camber to match for both wheels. (all checked with the suspension settled etc.) I haven't measured the toe-in yet so that could be an issue...

I picked up the other dust seals and they worked perfectly, I installed new bearings (inner and outers) on both wheels but the problem still exists. I tried what "eestatic" suggested and lifted the car, put a lever under the tire and moved it up at the 6 o clock position, while holding at the...

Yeah that's what I was afraid off, they definitely don't press in. below are the pictures, first is the one that looks similar to what came out and the second is what they gave me (also listed under +74 a-body just different part number)

for some reason I can't upload pictures. I'll try again later

yeah I measured them, they are 11" across. i had the new races pressed in and I found dust seal, but they look different than the ones that came off. see below pictures. The original looked like the first image. It gets pressed in the back of the disc and has a grease cavity. The second...

The trick to get the dust seal off worked great. I took the bearings and the races out of the passenger side, and the inner bearing does feel a lot rougher than the new bearing. The races looked fine but I took them out any way. I'll have to get the new ones pressed in. I'll take the drivers...

Great I'll give that a try.

attached is the picture of the front disc showing the recessed studs and the dust seal that I need to get out to remove the inner bearing and race.

No the car wasn't original when I bought it. Like I mentioned in my earlier post, it is a 67 barracuda with a 74+ disc brake conversion (larger upper balljoints). The previous owner must have made the changes to it because I also noticed it has torsion bars that are meant for a 383 car (0.89" I...

Will do, I just purchased some new bearings and will install them as soon as I get some new dust seals for the discs. If that doesn't solve my problem I'll take detailed pictures of all the connections and mounting brackets like you suggested.

Thank you for your constructive criticism "RustyRatRod" I actually think it is the perfect and most accurate description. If you can imaging what it would feel like to drive a car with broken or loose lug nuts. That's exactly what it feels like. It feels like the wheel is about to fall off, (it...

I checked some of the suggestions. No cracks or damage to the UCA brackets or strut rod K member mounts, Idler arm is tight with no play or evidence of worn out K member attachment hole. I spun the tire and the wheel spins true, same with the rotor hub so they aren't bent. I took the disc off...

Thanks, I inspected the uca brackets but couldn't see any cracks or rust (but I'll check again to make absolutely sure) I'll also check the idler arm connection. What's the best way of doing that, should it be up in the air or at ride height for that? I guess I'll try to see if it moves when I...

great suggestion, but no the studs haven't been changed since I've owned it.

I think it is most pronounced on right hand turns, but I think I felt it too on left handers, just not as bad. The rims up front are 14x7 with a 4" offset with 205/70R14 tires. I have driven them without issues for years and they aren't rubbing on the fenders or frame. Late last year the problem...