Help! Doug's headers in 67 barracuda

Mopar Exhaust Systems

  1. 67cuda360

    67cuda360 Well-Known Member

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    I finally got around to installing my D453 doug's headers in my 67 Barracuda but i'm running into some problems. The headers are hitting the steering box (borgeson quick ratio), one tube touches the torsion bar and the rear header tube is touching the steering column. (I'll attach images further down.)

    The car is a 67 Plymouth Barracuda with a '74 k-member (spool mounts), '74 360 engine and 727 TF transmission.

    I thought I had all the problem areas covers when I bought the Doug's Headers and picked up a mini-starter, and upgraded my stock power steering to the smaller Borgeson unit to have more space, but no such luck.

    The Borgeson steering box is unbolted and pushed over to the side to get the headers in and would still need to move back towards the header another 1/4" to be able to get it bolted back in. I also had to unbolt the steering column from the firewall to be able to get the headers.

    Any magic trick to get these in or am I going to have to hammer it to fit....? (really don't want to do that LOL)

    EngineColumn.jpg

    EngineSteeringBox.jpg

    Underside-Torsionbar.jpg

    UndersideSteeringBox.jpg
     
  2. mopowers

    mopowers Well-Known Member

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    How much room is on the passenger side between the header tube and the torsion bar? Looks like the engine needs to be moved over the the pass side - easy to do with biscuit style mounts.
     
  3. 67cuda360

    67cuda360 Well-Known Member

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    I don't think I can move the engine over since I have spool mounts (73+ k-member). I haven't even started on the passenger side yet. I wanted to do the difficult side first LOL.
     
  4. 72bluNblu

    72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    On a ‘67 the steering column jacket is longer than on later cars, it usually has to be shortened to clear any of the headers for these cars. You can try loosening the bolts on the lower column mount and shifting it over, but you may not get enough clearance that way.

    this is my ‘74
    CA32591A-1D4F-4C2E-99E8-8CDA8ADF887E.jpeg

    This is another members ‘67
    4573701A-ACD0-44D0-AEC2-CCFB1588B89C.jpeg

    The borgeson box I can’t help you with, but the headers were not designed for use with the borgeson box. It’s smaller, but it’s not the same shape so you may have to add some dents/dimples to make those headers work. You might try contacting @BergmanAutoCraft, he sells the borgeson boxes and may have an idea of the clearance issues.

    Same for the torsion bars. I have the D453’s on my ‘74 Duster with the spool mount K, I dimpled the tubes on both sides of the engine to clear the torsion bars. Even with the 1.12” torsion bars I run the dimples were relatively small.

    These cars have body tolerances of a 1/4” or more, even the expensive headers (Dougs, TTI’s) are a “one size fits most” affair. Which means, a few small dimples and dents are frequently necessary. The earlier biscuit mount K’s are easier to shim and move the engine around on to adjust the header clearance. With the spool K’s the engine pretty much sits where it sits.
     
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    • 67cuda360

      67cuda360 Well-Known Member

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      Thanks 72bluNblu, good to know about the column being longer on the 67's. Can I just take the column out and cut a few inches off that tube. It looks like there is just a bearing sitting in the bottom correct? I guess I just loosen the collar nut (that sits on the shaft just under the column) and then with a bit of luck I would be able to pull the bearing out...?

      And yes, I guess I'll have to dent the pipes for the borgeson pump and the torsion bars.
      Is there a best way to do this? I was thinking maybe put some tape around the area to reduce scratching and maybe put a large round socket against the pipe and hit the socket with a hammer?

      Or should I use high localized heat and then bang it directly with a hammer?
      I should have just bought the steel header and then get it coated after it was test fitted LOL
       
    • 72bluNblu

      72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      No problem!

      You can shorten the column jacket, but you’re probably going to have to pull and disassemble the column and shaft to do it. It’s not impossible to do it in the car but it won’t be easy.

      Some of those issues are addressed in a how to article I did awhile back about replacing the lower bearing. I don’t have a ‘67 though. In the discussion there are some members that explain what they did on their earlier cars, at least one is a ‘67. How To Replace your Lower Column Bearing: Better and Cheaper!!!

      As for denting the headers, using tape or a rag to keep from tearing up the coating is a good idea. Using a socket and a hammer works. It takes some trial and error and depends on how much material you have to move.

      Heat works too, but it will screw up the coating and if you don’t need a huge dent that isn’t necessary.
       
    • 68383GTS

      68383GTS Well-Known Member

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      I put Dougs in my 318 68 Barracuda. The only issue I had the header almost hit the steering column. I used truck motor mounts which are a little taller and that took care of it. I have a mini starter and manual steering box.
       
      Last edited: Feb 13, 2020
    • 318willrun

      318willrun Roadkill '80 D150

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      I put Doug's on a spool K-frame ('76 Duster). No dents or dings needed, fit like a glove. I think when parts are mixed-matched, problems with header installation get surface pretty quickly.
       
    • lead69

      lead69 hopeless car junkie

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    • 67cuda360

      67cuda360 Well-Known Member

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      I haven't measure the engine placement, but since this is a spool mount k-member there is no adjustment like there is with the biscuit style engine mounts. I am going to dent the header where the borgeson pump hits it (not Doug's fault since the borgeson pump is wider than the stock pump in that spot). I'll also dent the area near the torsion bars. From what I'm reading this seems pretty common and since my car is not at all stock, I shouldn't be expecting anything less LOL.

      I'll have to think about the steering column solution. I was wondering if it would be possible to cut a small section out of the column outer sleeve and move the bottom section (with the bearing in it) up and weld it back onto the outer sleeve. See picture below. Is this possible or is there another inner metal sleeve that the shaft rides in..?

      EngineColumn-Mod.jpg
       
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