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U-POL Tiger seal is an excellent seam sealer and is about half the cost of 3M.

SMC filler works extremely well too. Allows the panel to "flex" with the body and not crack like filler will do.

That is what I have. The piece that is under the bedside. Looks similar to this:

Sorry for the non A-body question, but figured a bunch mopar folks might be able to help me out. I picked up a 93 Dakota Sport for my sons first vehicle. It is really solid with exception to the drivers side bedside at the top(typical)section of the wheel opening was showing a bit of rust. I...

pictures of the the area of concern may help... And yes, every quarter panel I've ever installed takes some type of trimming, modification, manipulation to make it fit and look proper. I installed a set of quarters on a 68 Chevelle SS427 car here last year and the AMD quarters I installed...

Any good epoxy primer will work for what you want. Prep the surface per the tech sheet and make sure it's clean. Use nitrile gloves and DON'T TOUCH it with your bare hands, or you will have isssues later on down the road. Another word of advice stick with one product line line PPG, DuPont, R-M...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weld-In-Flush-Mount-Paintable-Pop-Up-Gas-Cap-Weld-In-Bung-Hot-Rod-Chopper-/331385195029

http://www.billrolikenterprises.com

May not be your windshield. Make sure that your wiper pivot seals aren't the culprit, as they are well known for leaking. Here is a link for the seal kit. http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/GasketKits.html#head1

I caught the rockers only part, and I have used the Sherman ones. They were close, if you consider the fact that the label said it was a rocker panel...and that was as close as they came to fitting too. Bought the AMD ones and they fit without having to hack them up. I agree with a patch panel...

Yes, it worth the extra money as their pieces fit a lot better than the others. Granted nothing fits like an OE part, but the AMD stuff is about as close as you'll ever get. Simple way to look at it...what is YOUR time worth?

yes

Pictures would be helpful. No one makes patches for that area. If you have access to a sheet metal break, and a shrinker/stretcher you can make you own pretty easy. The other option of a donor car is really the other choice when it comes to this.

That is a very good product. As for rinsing with water that will not be an issue as long as you wipe them dry and used good clean filtered compressed air to blow out the crevices. As for the adhesion, sandblasting leaves the perfect substrate on which to apply your primer, of which neither water...

12K is a bit steep for all that needs to be corrected on that thing. You guys are WAY less critical than I am I guess. That sunroof hack job is horrible, the cheesy $4 K-Mart steering wheel wrap, the real wood applied to the dash board would definitely have to be removed. That awesome tach...

Ding, Ding, Ding We have a WINNER! Unfortunately there is no easy fix for that. A repaint of the trunk lid is order along with some blending into the sail panels and quarter panels. Sucks, but it is the only way to truly fix the root of the problem.

I will try to post some pictures of it tomorrow. The good one that is!

Don't go out your way. If you are going to be there for your self, then OK, but don't make a special trip just for me. However if you do happen to be and they have one, let know what they want for it and we'll go from there. Thanks!!!!!

One step ahead of ya! Thanks for looking into it though.

passenger side

Thank you! I feel like such dumb a$$ for ruining it.

Hey guys I need all your help with something a little unusual. I have a 1947 Packard Clipper Deluxe coupe that was my fathers pride and joy. Well while unloading the car from my enclosed trailer I had a gotten a little close to the cable for the door and caught the rocker panel molding. I...

if my memory is correct they have a profile that fits into the channel. You can use a little weather-strip adhesive to hold it in place if you want.

70-72

Your right! Didn't read all the words!

They are stainless steel so no need to coat them with anything. What you are seeing is years of weather and such beating them up. Polish them up with the buffer and they'll look good as new if not better. To keep them looking good occasionally clean them with a good metal cleaner/polish like...

Tape off the sides where you don't want paint. Paint the entire top of the valve cover and while the paint is still wet take something flat wrap a rag around it tightly and wet (don't saturate it or it will drip) it with thinner. Keep a good even pressure on it and it will take the paint from...

they are the same.

Proper body-work corrects the imperfections, and nothing else.

You are right, I was thinking WO/RO not Max-wedge.