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-any thoughts on the possibility of the diff causing this type of vibration??? (i dont really know much about these rear ends, never had an issue with a diff before...) -any opinions on whether or not the d-shaft is still outta wack and causing the issue??? side note; before i buy a new drive...

Well I wasn't brave enough to spin the wheels at 50 MPH while sitting on jack stands in the garage...so I don't know if the vibe would continue. The drive shaft shop said that there was about .040" runout on the front of the shaft. They straightened it by heating it and quenching it with water...

Sooo, I ended up putting 3 degree shims in the jeep as well as new U-bolts and motor mounts. she is completely vibe free!!! Can't say the same for the duster though. I balanced the wheels, checked out the undercarriage (nothing loose), the bearing on the input yolk for the diff feels excellent...

Yeah I just started getting used to it actually lol. That's the problem It wont pull up, not sure what's goin on there. I just got back to town. Ill give ya a call tomorrow after work. hopefully its just jammed up. It happened when i was parking it in the garage just before a trip so I literally...

Cool, ill def give him a call. I need to hit up Greg again too. My new Hurst shifter jammed up on me the other week, doesn't wanna go into park outta drive. I've been outta town for a week and wont be back till late tonight. So ill be giving y'all at SS/AFX a call tomorrow.

Ok, yeah i was starting to try and calculate the size shims to put in from that. .. it has a four link front and a leaf rear. ...

Yeah i replaced the u joints. Left the alignment of the knuckles the same but still a vibe. I doubt its the problem but I am going to balance the drive shaft next. I tried to balance the tires but no one would cause they are so old. So I'm gunna get some new rubber for it if the dshaft balance...

Angle issue ....sounds very probable, thanks super shaft. Especially since I have a 4 inch dick cepick lift on it, how would I remedy that? Either change the d-shaft length or change degree index on the axels????

Yeah I'm going to rebalance the shaft before i do anything else here. ... I did try like 10 different Dodge chrsyler Plymouth vehicles looking for the same drum at autozone. ..non that were the same size :/ 11" id. My Jeep just started a different vibe this week too, must have caught the virus...

Yes, sorry I forgot I made this thread. I found the bug in the wiring, was a bad splice from the manufacturer. They thought my month of hair pulling down time was worth a $50 credit, ill take what I can get I guess. Then i pulled the thing over to Greg at SS AND AFX in north central Phoenix...

so i havent been able to find a shop who was willing to "balance" or even look at my brake drums... i havent been able to find a reman pair either because i have no idea where the 8.75 rear end in my duster came from... I did however hear from one guy that a bent axel would throw out the...

as soon as i read this i ran down stairs to check out the drums haha. the rims are ol cragars and flare away from the drums, so no one should have taken any weights off, BUT.... just an fyi, last week i ran to autozone 2 miles away to grab stuff for an oil change, kept the car under 45, couldnt...

im chasing a similar demon in my 74 duster; 360 with 727 and 8.75. it vibes about 40-50, while in neutral or drive, the humming bee.. hmmm---hmmmm---hmmm. did u-joints and im checking all the basics (wheels and tires, ect...) like fury said, its a process of elimination just like all trouble...

OK.... i had to take some time away from the car to get my bearings. my Chrysler 100 amp alt was a no go as the pulley was seized to the shaft and the shop cracked it. so i had them build me a 100amp, internally regulated delco unit. i made some brackets and got that sucker on there with a...

HA, THATS AWESOME! i work for a third party contractor that manufactures those mil spec aerospace connectors, i design them and never thought of using them for an automotive application. i love it! im totally stealing this idea man! thnx

thnx for the contact lead moparkid. i will def pursue that monday. sorry guys, probably could have stated that i pulled the old harness, installed a new one, and did quite a bit of repair to the electrical system. there appears to be a short or a mis-wired circuit in the ignition system causing...

right, but the car was running and driving fine before the fire with no other dedicated ground on the ecm... not really sure about how it was all set up though. I cant find an ecm online...gunna have to start calling around. also, no one really said if they though a bad ecm would allow the...

so i just bought my first mopar, 74 duster with a 360. wiring short caused a harness fire on the drive home. ive had it three weeks and still cant sort this thing out....:banghead: i need a local shop who knows these cars to help me get this squared away. when the electrical is done i will also...

so i put a dedicated ground in the ignition ecu, no change. i think the shock was just because i was suppling power to the brown ignition 2 wire while it was running. still will only fire in "run" position, then dies....i have no idea what the hell to do.... does anyone know of any mopar...

well im wondering if the ignition module shocked me because i had a jumper on the brown ignition 2 wire (which normally doesnt have current flowing after start up)??? could supplying current through that wire temporarily "short" the module? i will definitely put a dedicated ground strap on...

some new developments... so just to humor myself i picked up another ballast resistor, new out the box it had the same resistance values that the one currently on the fire wall had. i even plugged it in and tried to start the car, no dice. same issue as before, would start then die with key in...

so i got the steering column fully disassembled and installed the new switch. tahnks a ton for the insight guys, i hit the pin with a punch and it shot right out. i went to run some tests and it started doing the same thing the old switch did. would start but looses power when the key springs...

glad you got past that issue... assume it was smooth sailing for you? did you finish up the repair ok? I have a question for you if ya did... im changing out an ignition switch myself. when you got to the steering wheel lock plate how did you remove the pin? did you use the chrysler removal...

so i took the alternator to a shop, pulled it apart... fried diodes and such. so i got my hands on a chrysler 100 amp alternator, having it refurbed. should be ready tomorrow. im going to have to fab some new brackets to hold it... i got an ignition switch from the local napa today too. price...

updates... i unhooked the alternator from the system and unplugged the ignition cylinder from the harness on the steering column... I "hotwired" the car by jumping the power wire on the ignition harness (dash side not key side) to the ignition 1 and 2, then i jumped over to the start wire...

one last thing for tonight... so i noticed while poking around that on the new harness there is a grey wire with a female spade (non insulated) on it by the ignition wires on the passenger side of the harness in the engine bay. I did not know where to terminate this when installing the new...

also... I didnt think it would be the alternator because it looks like its newer and not original...but sparks from it. Like you said 67dart, dead short and harness goes pff.... new alternator now??? maybe ignition cylinder and/or wiring??? Looks like I gotta go tear into that ignition column...

un hooked the alternator from the system entirely, and put a charger on the battery then tried to start it... still does the thing where it will run if i hold the key in the forward "start" position, wont stay running if I let it spring back to the "run" position. i am going to pick up...

so updates.... i had completely unwrapped the dash side harness and checked for melts/shorts in the system. no sign of damage (other than the fried amp gauge wire i replaced) then i wrapped it all back up. I havent been in the ignition column yet though... i also bypassed the factory power...

great stuff! really did a good job of illustrating the system. i was on the verge of something like that... imma work on cleaning up the system and see if the issues clear up. thanx for the link!