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Never did fix this issue. I guess the switch is good and stuck. Just unplugged the wire....for now. It sounds like you might actually have a brake problem though

If anybody needs longer studs ,what ever you do, don't use these studs...They won't work ... :prayer: :prayer: Bill says so

I give up.. Whatever you do, do not use these studs.

Wow.. holy **** man I didn't mean to get your panties all up in a bunch. Quite frankly, your proof don't meen squat. Your the dim bulb who couldn't quite get a grasp on the concept that the wheels WERE hitting the calipers WITHOUT Spacers. So let me make this as clear and precise as possible...

Is this failure that you speak of documented somewhere or is this just hearsay that you think is gonna happen? If you've got actual proof of what your saying, well then I'm all ears. But if this failure you speak of is just YOUR opinion , well than I'm just gonna file it as that...your opinion...

So whats shoulder length got to do with knurl length? So the ARP part has knurls that go from under the head and are a tickle under 3/4 long, Yet the stock one has about 1/4' of knurl. And your gonna say that these won't be seated into the hub as deep. Considering they go clear through the hub...

Got some ARP # 100-7706

Got it...ARP #100-7706 Knurl size is .003 oversize, but they pulled in just right A little under 3" long and the poverty caps still fit.

I may have something, I'll know more tomorrow after Fed-ex shows up Thanks...Pete

Also, I measured the amount of the front stud sticking out of the hub and it measures .913... A little shorter than the normal 1".

got a chance to take some pics today First pic is of front wheel without spacer Second pic is of rear wheel with spacer Third pic is of rear wheel without spacer Fourth pic is rear wheel with spacer and new stud fifth is Dorman 610-259 vs. original stud last is caliper that is interfering...

I'll post some pics this PM

The only update I have is I still need to come up with some longer studs for the front of this car..... :banghead: The rears were an easy one... Pete

Those rotors look different than mine. Are those from a 70 or later? Pete

Oklacar, 1. I have no spare 2. It got to my shop with all 4 wheels bolted on nice and tight. Front brake calipers weren't on yet 3.The rear wheels are on, but one side has a spacer on it so the studs are short on that wheel. 4. I don't know the history on the front rotors so I'm not sure if...

What are you guys doing for longer wheel studs for the front rotors? The car is a 70 dart swinger with factory Kelsey Hayes discs Thanks...Pete

Maybe something got lost in description. The rear wheels and tires fit on this car exactly as the factory wheels would EXCEPT these are a wider wheel/tire. Because of the way the factory welded the leafspring perches on the rear-end housing, one of the back wheels is too close to the leaf...

Getting back to the longer studs, these kinda look promising....would like to find out if anybody in the US might be selling these so I could find more info on them. http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/sun..._detail&p=5068 As far as the rears go...These shouldn't be a problem to find,right?

Again, the rears are not hitting anywhere accept on the face of the drum like they are supposed to.

If anything, I'm thinking it's the part of the rim that the hub cap covers that is different from the factory wheel and is causing this problem. Maybe the area that the actual lugnut goes into is taller or thicker?? The shape of the wheel that you see as tapered, vs the flat of a factory...

I'm not sure what you mean by this. Do you have any close ups of a factory steel wheel? Right where the taper is Thanks...Pete

The car came with Kelsey hayes front disc brakes. It now has those same rotors and SSBC replacement bolt on calipers. I'm beginning to think that these wheels are the problem. Can any one here running a factory wheel spin off one of your lugnuts and maybe try to measure how much stud is...

WOW are those prices in US dollars? over $10.00 bucks a piece?? Wow just WOW

Um, no. The rear wheels don't even come close to hitting the drums. As I stated before , We only need a spacer on the rear to keep the inner section of the TIRE from rubbing on the leaf spring. As far as the front goes, the reason for the spacer is to keep the wheel from rubbing on the caliper...

Wow, now you guys got me wondering. The spacers are 1/4", I had them custom made. They fit flush all the way to the mounting surface... They aren't getting hung up on anything. The wheels I believe are Wheel Vintiques ( don't Know for sure because the customer supplied them). I also ran into an...

Would you run this? I know I wouldn't

The master is new as well as every other part,,, the light has always been on... Pete

Thanks for replies... The block is brand new....Although that doesn't mean that it's any good. If I unplug the wire going to it, the light goes out, proving it's the switch not the E-brake. I'll try cracking open a bleeder at a time ( either a front or a rear) and see if I can get that piston...

I've got a 70 Dart Swinger in my shop that i just finished completing the brake system on...New Master, lines, calipers, prop block..... Got the brakes bled today and the "brake" light in the dash won't go off :banghead: The brakes work awesome with a hard pedal....no pump up, just hard at...

Anybody know where to get longer wheel studs for a 70 Dart? With the wheel/ tire/brake combo on this car ,I needed to run 1/4" wheel spacers. Now the studs need to be a little longer...1/2" would do it. Would consider changing to 1/2" thread also. Any part numbers would be appreciated Factory...