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It is the Sending unit for sure.I might replace it with a cheap unit and fix the OEM unit. I just need to find out how much gas is in the tank and what size fittings i have on the sending unit.

Im leaning to replacing it with a cheap unit and fix the old one.

It is definitely the sending unit. I have grounded out the gauge and it did move to full. I might go wiith a cheap sending unit just to get one in and send out the OEM unit.

Thank you. This is a very confusing fix on this car. I have seen them range in price from $22.95 to over $200. Right now it does not read anything and since i don't use the car very often i have no clue what is in the tank. The car is going for paint in the next few weeks i wanted to finish any...

Yes that was my question, i had someone talking to me while i was writing it.

My fuel sending unit is not functioning,Looking at replacements they are listing a few sizes. Is there a way i can figure this out with out going under the car and measuring it? It is a 75 Dart swinger 318 2bbl. Any help. I am pretty sure it has the fuel return line. Thanks for your help

I had an issue with my speedo last night on the way to a cruise. The speedo neelde was going crazy then got stuck maxed out and would bounce occasionally. I removed the cluster today what a ***** that was, but under the hood the cable is in 2 parts and in between is some sort of cutting edge...

Thanks i was leaning towards the hellwig just because of price. I dont think a bar is worth the extra 300 or so it is for the hotchkis. The car with out it is a so weird with out the sway bar the body roll is terrible. Thanks for the replies

Im looking to ad a front sway bar to my 75 dart swinger. Does anyone have any advice or experience on what to company to go with? I can find hellwig and hotchkis. Any advice would be great thanks

Your referring to the ECT timer? So is it accurate to say that there is 2 timers in the engine bay. The one on the fire wall is removed. The voltage regulator is the one on the fender then there is one just out of the picture farther up on the fender that is the on i am asking if it is the ECT...

Sorry i have started about 3 threads and i forgot where i put the year of the car. It is a 75 dart swinger 318 California car. I mention California because they were a little more strict with emissions back then. The car HAD a full egr system w/ A.I.R pump. Why do you think the engine bay does...

Tell you what?

Thank you

what is the ETC timer for?

I took your advice and reinstalled my choke timer when i was doing my 2 to 4 swap. Thanks for the advice, it does work great.

My fuel gauge has not worked since i bought the car. Where should i look first. The temp gauge works fine. I read somewhere that it could be the dash if both gauges did not work. I am leaning towards the sending unit as the culprit. What is the best way to test the gauge. Thanks

So since i took out the egr will it upset anything if i removed the timer delay?

Update: Car runs great and idles perfectly. Just waiting on a spring return bracket and we should be able to run it around the block. Trying to finish the kick down lever today. Has anyone been able to find a 4bbl kick down rod from carb to bracket on the internet? I have looked everywhere to no...

I thought this was the ECU? The voltage regulator does have some markings on it but the one on the fire wall has nothing visible.

Can someone tell me what these to boxes are? They seem to be leaking some,sticky stuff and I want to replace them if I need them. Thanks you guys have been a big help so far.

Do you have an extra 340 laying around?

Well the car is out of surgery, but its now in a coma!. I cant get the car to idle. it runs for a few seconds and then pops out through the carb. I have adjusted the timing and i have adjusted the float n the carb but it still pops. Does anyone have an idea of what i am missing here.

Yes had an air pump yes it had an air pump why may i ask?

Here are some photos. The intake is an edelbrock, carb is a summit.

Oh definitely will check, i wont take anything for granted.

Great thread.

I will post pictures and part numbers when i get home later today. I found a holly carb lever that is made just to fix the WOT and Kick Down problem. Its under $10 and should eliminate and problems with the carb. I used a different intake than H22A4 did and i bought a summit carb. I am replacing...

I found out that holly makes a throttle lever to fix the WOT and kick down problem. It is made specifically for converting from a 2 to 4 bbl carb. And its under $10. I will let you know how it works.

I purchased a non egr intake. I imagine I'll loose more that 2mpg with the added secondarys.

The evap is stating but the egr is history