Hey guys i have a 75 dart swinger 318 Ci California car. I live on long island and emissions here are not as strict for older cars. I plan on replacing the 2bbl with a 4bbl when funds are available dont know when that will be. Going through the engine i found a lot of old hard cracked vacuum lines that i have started to replace. I know the AIR pump does not work so that will come off the car has custom exhaust with no cats so AIR pump is not needed. can anyone give me an idea what can be removed to start this DE-smogification? I was a Chevy guy (still have an 87 MC SS Aerocoupe) so i know what can be eliminated from a gm car with no problems but these mopar things im still new at. Thanks for any help
Should i de-smog?
- Thread starter whtmontie
- Start date
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You can remove it all. My '75 had all the stuff yours has (EGR, OSAC, TIC valve, etc) except it never came with an air pump or cats until I removed all of it.
LD4B installation on a 75 318
LD4B installation on a 75 318
g413
Well-Known Member
Your post contains two different questions: "should you" and "how can you" de-smog a car. "Should you" depends on your conscience and your state laws.
Back in the late sixties, all the hot rodders were complaining about the smog controls. However, smog regulations were responsible for keeping the Los Angeles vicinity a livable/breathable area.
Whatever you take off, you should keep the stuff in a box in case you ever want to sell your car on eBay to someone in California. When you register a car here, they check for that stuff.
Back in the late sixties, all the hot rodders were complaining about the smog controls. However, smog regulations were responsible for keeping the Los Angeles vicinity a livable/breathable area.
Whatever you take off, you should keep the stuff in a box in case you ever want to sell your car on eBay to someone in California. When you register a car here, they check for that stuff.
1970dartcustom
of the Moore clan
Yes. You should. How? Rip it out 
Well shortly after writing the question i came across H22A4's post. So now i am in the middle of a 4bbl conversion. Diymirage i am keeping the evap system in tact. H22A4 i may have a few questions for you if you dont mind.
Are you planning on using a carb that has a bowl vent tube so it will work with the evap canister. I have a Eddy #1400 600 cfm carb if you need one that has a vent tube.
I would keep the EGR and evap hooked up. You'll get better milage with the EGR still functional.
Ask away! I'm sure others can chime in too as they've done similar projects.
The evap is stating but the egr is history
Cool. I lost 2mpg by disconnecting EGR on my 87 Ramcharger. Hooked it back up and milage came back. Have fun
I purchased a non egr intake. I imagine I'll loose more that 2mpg with the added secondarys.
I found out that holly makes a throttle lever to fix the WOT and kick down problem. It is made specifically for converting from a 2 to 4 bbl carb. And its under $10. I will let you know how it works.
I will post pictures and part numbers when i get home later today. I found a holly carb lever that is made just to fix the WOT and Kick Down problem. Its under $10 and should eliminate and problems with the carb. I used a different intake than H22A4 did and i bought a summit carb. I am replacing the cap rotor wires plugs and water pump as well as the intake and carb. No my only issue is should i remove the A/C since it did not work anyway? Ill take any suggestions. The mopar A/C compressors are huge and freekin ugly sitting right on top front of the engine.
Good idea buying the Holly carb lever adapter as it will ensure the kickdown linkage/rod has the correct geometry. I suspect it's probably similar to Edelbrock's 1843 adapter but for a Holly. Even with that adapter though you should still double check the kickdown lever that goes into the transmission is all the way back once you've got everything back together. Mine wasn't even with the 1843 adapter and I've summarized how to check in it in my LD4B thread.
Oh definitely will check, i wont take anything for granted.
rigger3006
Well-Known Member
rip it out
Yes had an air pump
yes it had an air pump why may i ask?
Great progress so far! Brings back recent memories for me......
Looking at that pic of the engine, does your car have/had an air pump?
yes it had an air pump why may i ask?
Well the car is out of surgery, but its now in a coma!. I cant get the car to idle. it runs for a few seconds and then pops out through the carb. I have adjusted the timing and i have adjusted the float n the carb but it still pops. Does anyone have an idea of what i am missing here.
stroked340
Well-Known Member
Rip it all out..along with the 318
Do you have an extra 340 laying around?Rip it all out..along with the 318
Update: Car runs great and idles perfectly. Just waiting on a spring return bracket and we should be able to run it around the block. Trying to finish the kick down lever today. Has anyone been able to find a 4bbl kick down rod from carb to bracket on the internet? I have looked everywhere to no avail.
I found mine on e-bay. There are a lot of listings for rods (and throttle brackets) advertised for a 4 barrel but they are actually off a 2 barrel. Try using search words like "kickdown rod dodge" or "340 carb linkage rod" or a combination of those. They are out there. I know some members have modified their 2 barrel rods to work if you're in a hurry and there are none listed.
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