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If you had no headlights or dome light that has nothing to do with your ignition or ignition system. There is something wrong with your battery or wiring. If you try to jump start the car and you get the same result then your wiring is faulty.

I never said that the coil over systems won't hold up. I said that the cars were not designed for them. I also said that if 'I' were to use one, I would look to implement added structure to the car - exactly what I don't now know, because I have no intention of doing such a thing and so have not...

Okay, so you agree with me completely not. Got it. What you are really saying, probably without realizing it, is that a brand new coil over - without adding any structural additions to the front end - is superior to doing nothing to a 40+ year old car. Okay, I can 'agree' with that. Of course...

Surely, if you drive it hard anyway. But it is a question of how much more stress. The rear anchoring points for the T-bars are a well known area of stress and are prone to rust. But they are better engineered to take stress than the front end is.

Nope not what I'm saying. 1. The cars were made for T-bars. 2. They might be okay with coil overs, then again they might no over the long haul; 3. Any car that is that old (read: used) is not like a new car; 4. especially if it is driven hard; 5. I was advising the OP, not someone who is not...

All the more reason not to add more stress to it. Race cars are designed differently than jeeps, than pickup trucks, than street sedans. If you want to make something something that it was not designed to do, you have to do the homework.

Yeah you must live in NY, NJ or CA ... like I do.

Well, a competent engineer would really have to weigh in to provide details on stresses and loads, metal fatigue details and all kinds of other things. You can be that they did this at the factory at the time. They might well have built into the unibody enough added strength. But without knowing...

Yeah, well, that's the kind of thing I was referring to; but exactly what to do I have no clue, other than to look at the cars set up for rallies and other types of racing, and speak with those who have set them up. If I were ever thinking of doing such a thing I'd do a lot of homework on it first.

The Mopar front suspension was designed as part of the unibody package of the Mopar. It places a lot of the stress under the firewall area, away from the front end. Whether the front end can withstand the added stresses of having all the duty of supporting the front half of the car is a question...

Oh, okay.

Pete, That is interesting. I've tried to find out what vehicles, such as Corvettes or the newer Chrysler RRD vehicles use in the rear - as opposed to 6-cylinder 1964 Falcons - and just could not obtain definitive data. If you know that these newer cars use sealed BALL bearings, then that is...

Thanks.

I'm not sure I follow you. I know you're being sarcastic, but it's difficult to read without proper punctuation. Are you saying that Rick E. started this debate? He didn't, he just made his thoughts known on the subject. I'm not his lawyer, but I think he's allowed to do that. I don't think that...

Do you think it would be wise for me to upgrade from the older type to the newer type of 'green' bearings? And can you tell me what would need to change - if anything?

Since my 'green' bearings were installed at least 15 years ago (though probably have fewer than 3K miles on them) I suppose I have the early design and should at least upgrade to the newer design?

Summit Racing carries both, and oddly enough the older ones are literally 2X the price (well maybe not too odd, since Mopar is the distributor).

Okay, thank you. I've done a little more looking around and I found this and it appears to coincide with what you (and some others) are saying. http://www.doctordiff.com/blog/tech-info/why-green-bearings/

I took a read at the engineersedge post, above. But my question remains - since I've never seen a cutaway (nor an adequate description) of the 'green' bearings, what type of ball bearing are they? According to the chart in that link 'deep groove' ball bearing look like they would work well. But...

I'm meaning stock type mechanical fuel pumps in particular.

Okay. Any particular reason? Just on this point or do you generally disagree?

I've heard of problems with fuel pump leaking because of the diaphram being damaged, more so with E15 than E10. I know that the web is chock full of rumors that are just that - rumors ... but has anybody actually had any problems in this regard? Here's an interesting video by Pat Goss...

And is he not a well respected Mopar technician?

This is what I found out from my own research, as I mentioned in my post from yesterday. What I still don't know though, is ... are the greenies the same on the inside as the ball bearings that were standard decades ago in some Ford and Mopar rears? And if so, how often did the old ones fail?

Didn't want to open a new topic on this as there are already several on the subject of Green bearing safety. After doing some research on this I've found that, while most (all???) new cars use rear ball bearings, they usually (always???) use a double row of them ... that is, two separate rows of...

There is some room for error, but the original shop manual does state .008.

Thanks. I did check the reluctor and in fact I gaped it to .008 on every single node. I can't detect anything wrong. I have another new NAPA reluctor I can try and if I need to I will. As I mentioned though, the car runs better at speed than at idle and perhaps more importantly, it runs...

Then I apologize to you sir. I gave it serious thought before starting the new topic, and I know Xposting is a no-no; but I hoped that this heading would draw more comments, and adding the links to each one would not make it too irritating. Next time I won't do it ... if there is a next time...

Thank you, but wouldn't that make for a consistantly poor running car? ... whereas this one is pretty much okay one minute and very not okay the next.

Hi, Because the title of this is no longer meaningful, I have created a new topic - http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970470651#post1970470651 - that, if anyone can offer further help with, perhaps is more to the current point. Thank you.