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About 4 years ago, I replaced the clutch in my '68 Dart /6 with an A-903. Two months later I pulled it out, as I had not lubricated the pilot busing in the crank adequately, so I was grinding most every gear. This solved the problem, but now 4 years later it is back. In the first 30 years I...

Yep, the "stumbling slant" of another thread. I'm not one that feels the need for speed. Been my DD since 1983.

Now that the Dart is fixed (thanks to the help from this forum) it is back to being my daily driver. My coworkers expect it to be parked under the tree (3PM shade is important in Dallas in the summer). I get 20+ MPG, better than a many other vehicles being driven to work (hard to calculate the...

Yes, the plugs were recommended as one of the "easy /6 improvements" on .org. I have been using them for quite a few years. Anyway, to put a coda on this thread, when I looked at the Dart with a friend on Friday, I noted that the vacuum advance wasn't doing anything to the engine idle. So I...

I like the thought of "lean tip-in" except that this thing misses at all RPMs and throttle positions. When I get it up to highway speed, it is not as noticeable at those RPMs (well, most of the time not), but It has some really crappy missing that happens at part throttle, and when goosing it...

These are some great ideas. I think I have addressed some of them already. I checked with a propane torch to look for leaks around the carb and intake, and did not find any. It appears that the engine is/was running rich, as new plugs look like this after less than an hour of operation: Six...

Not sure how a balancer slips a tooth. I was very careful to get the cam aligned with the crank when replacing the timing chain. Looks like a Doorman balancer is about $130. Also looks like the one off of my 170 will not work:-(.

Have not tried to reinstall the old distributor. I assumed since the problem was completely unchanged, that it was not the issue. The replacement distributor was new from Rock Auto.

Where "it ran best". It would be impossible to start (kicking against the starter), I'd move it a tooth, then it would be OK to start and I'd time it by ear. The odd thing is that the timing appears way advanced (CCW of the plate) when I look at it with a timing light. But it will not run...

Bought it in 2010...the guy I bought it from claimed it had 80K on it. My odometer has been broken since 2007, but I drive it every day 30 miles RT to work, so figure maybe 8K a year, so that's somewhere north of 170K on this engine. I had 285k on the 170 (this one's the 225) before I replaced it.

Well, there is only a few minutes on the rebuilt 1920. And it shows the exact same stumble with new carb as old.

The story so far: 68 Dart with a slant. I noted that the distributor shaft was getting a bit wobbly when I last tried to change the points, so I tried rebushing the distributor I had, failed at that, and replaced the distributor with a used one I had. I might have had a bit of hesitation...

Guys, Thanks for the good discussion. I actually did not get 31 years out of one clutch, but I got...I guess 15-18 years, which is why when the "new" one died after only 2 years, I was looking for a way to "fix" it permanently. When the previous clutch died, it did not even really wear out...

Thanks, cjh. I see that rockauto has a couple of different 10" clutches. You seem to be indicating that the clutch cover for the 10" clutch is larger in diameter than the 9-1/8" clutch. Problem is, that I can buy plenty of clutches, but no one sells flywheels. I took no pictures, but when I...

There is 1"+ of freeplay (at the pedal). I am reasonably sure it is slipping, as when I get it into 3rd, the revs suddenly increase with no commensurate increase in speed. I feel if I gunned it, it would happen more often. I am normally not a clutch abuser, but I did have to start this thing...

Gang, For the first time in the 31 years I have been driving this Dart, I have actually worn out a clutch. The car had a 170 originally, and I put a 225 in it a couple of years ago. In the last month or so it slips sometimes at ~30 mph, which I am told is indicative of a clutch going out...

I went with the auto rust "cap" that goes over (what is left of) the existing frame piece. Went in pretty easy, it is a bit tight to weld the rear socket into the new piece, as it is wider than the old one, giving less margin to weld on. As far as welding goes, the socket was originally welded...

I want to thank you guys for the excellent dialog. Yesterday crossmember rot finally got to my 68 Dart (driver's side socket ripped loose), and I am trying to do a little research to see what my options are. I saw a replacement crossmember somewhere on this list, but I guess it was not for an...

Thanks for the thread. My 45 year old mount just let go yesterday, and I'll probably have to do something like this to get back on the road.